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  • #16
    Originally posted by Vincenttor View Post
    Not sure if i fully understood what you mean,
    you mean that i do not can use an event in a event ?

    So in my case, the event i made when the channel up relay is activated it turns on and then turns the relay off after 1 second.

    i have to put in the big event, but then separate.


    Here i got the view collapsed what the up and down button normally should do.
    You just need one of the two events not them both.

    If the relay is triggered then the Laag event and the omhoog event trigger at the same time because they both trigger on omlaag off so you are sending two off commands to the board.

    what you need is one event called Laag/omlaag ( I guess this is correct) up and down as the single relay is not aware if you are going up or down.

    I hope this helps.

    Greig.
    Zwave = Z-Stick, 3xHSM100� 7xACT ZDM230, 1xEverspring SM103, 2xACT HomePro ZRP210.
    X10 = CM12U, 2xAM12, 1xAW10, 1 x TM13U, 1xMS13, 2xHR10, 2xSS13
    Other Hardware = ADI Ocelot + secu16, Global Cache GC100, RFXtrx433, 3 x Foscams.
    Plugings = RFXcom, ActiveBackup, Applied Digital Ocelot, BLDeviceMatrix, BLGarbage, BLLAN, Current Cost, Global Cache GC100,HSTouch Android, HSTouch Server, HSTouch Server Unlimited, NetCAM, PowerTrigger, SageWebcamXP, SqueezeBox, X10 CM11A/CM12U.
    Scripts =
    Various

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    • #17
      Thanks for the help Greig,

      Te above events from the omlaag/omhoog button presses are the events separate not in the open all curtains event.
      Showed them just so you could see what they do.

      Here is the event with explanation in english is a bit easier to understand then i guess because i do not use the omlaag and omhoog event after each other.



      And to make it fully Clear what the channel up event does , and channel down event does here are the screenshots.


      i clicked the button to collapse the radio list if thats the word for it, so you could see what button or task it opens/does.

      So if i check this, it all seems ok.
      I am going to put the relay board next to the remote control first and hope that it will solve this.

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by Vincenttor View Post
        Thanks for the help Greig,

        Te above events from the omlaag/omhoog button presses are the events separate not in the open all curtains event.
        Showed them just so you could see what they do.

        Here is the event with explanation in english is a bit easier to understand then i guess because i do not use the omlaag and omhoog event after each other.



        And to make it fully Clear what the channel up event does , and channel down event does here are the screenshots.


        i clicked the button to collapse the radio list if thats the word for it, so you could see what button or task it opens/does.

        So if i check this, it all seems ok.
        I am going to put the relay board next to the remote control first and hope that it will solve this.
        I see one potential problem. This is another reason I prefer to use the wait command instead of delayed actions. I would strongly suggest you consider putting all of the actions in a single event as I described above. There is a big difference between the "Wait" command and the delayed actions created in your event. In your event it fully runs and creates a separate "Delayed Device Action" event for each action in the sequence. Using the "Wait" action allows it to run through the actions sequentially within a single event. There is a lot less going on behind the scenes.

        Let me try to explain. You have separate events to turn the channel up and down relays off after one second. Within your primary open event you are turning the channel up relay on and following with top layer open after a 3 second delay. There is a second event that is triggered by the channel up relay turning on that turns it off after one second. If every thing is perfect then it should work. The problem is that you are counting on there never being any delay from when the channel up output is on and HomeSeer triggering the event to turn it off. There can be circumstances when things will not happen instantly within the Event Engine. If the second event takes longer than 1 second to trigger and cause an action, there is a chance that the controller "thinks" the channel up and the open buttons are pressed at the same time. Since most microcontroller inputs are either a resistive bridge or a matrix of buttons and if two are pressed at the same time it could do nothing or a completely different function. Your event creates the potential for this mis-timing quite a few times.

        If you put all controls in a single event and use the"Wait" action, you are not having to create numerous Delayed Device Actions and you remain in absolute control of the very critical timing required by your event. I think some of the problems you are encountering may be caused by missed timing due to the large number of actions, additional triggers and stacked Delayed Device Actions in what is a very tightly timed event.

        I hope this makes sense.
        Last edited by rprade; December 17th, 2014, 11:56 AM.
        Randy Prade
        Aurora, CO
        Prades.net

        PHLocation - Pushover - EasyTrigger - UltraECM3 - Ultra1Wire3 - Arduino

        Comment


        • #19
          Thanks,
          this makes sense !
          Will redo the event now, and use the wait command.
          Ill report back after some tests

          ------------------------------------------------------------
          Well i have redone the both events with the wait commands.
          Lets hope this will solve it because we are used to it that it opens and closes by itself
          The "problem" is als that i have tried to learn the IR commands into a Logitech Harmony hub, but it could not recognize the commands, also i have a IRtrans device that could not fully understand the code.
          I think it is on 455 Khz freq or something, then i tried to hot wire the wall controls.
          After checking he pcb what track i needed and soldering the wires to it, test it on the wall it started to respond very bad and have there own way of doing things.
          It seems that when i soldered the wires to it, they picked up allot of interference resulting in bad controls, i do however have to every control wires laying around and under the house hehe.



          Haven't also yet connected the power off function, will do this tomorrow if it fails again.
          But it still seems to go without errors the counting up and down every time , but it would be a good failsafe if it resets itself to 0.
          Maybe i can find or test the take out a capacitor from the remote or put a smaller one in so it is drained faster.

          Will let you guys know how it went.

          Thanks again for the time and answers
          Last edited by Vincenttor; December 17th, 2014, 02:22 PM.

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          • #20
            I hope it continues to work for you. If the power function doesn't reset the controller to 0, I have some other ideas. When You are inside the controller to wire the power connections, see if you can take some good pictures of both sides of the controller circuit board. Even better would be to see if you can find a schematic for the controller.
            Randy Prade
            Aurora, CO
            Prades.net

            PHLocation - Pushover - EasyTrigger - UltraECM3 - Ultra1Wire3 - Arduino

            Comment


            • #21
              The system is very old, we have it here for 17 years now and its build by Elero if i am not mistaking.
              Can't find any info about it on the internet.
              You can say that this is very good equipment since we are using it day by day and never had problems with it.

              I do have pictures on a disk somewhere , will try to find then.

              But i must say, this morning when i came downstairs everything was opened and checked the logs , and looked good as well.
              I really hope this was the thing i have been struggling with all these months.
              I am very excited it opened up like it should so hopefully the coming days it stays acting like i want it to act.


              But i can now try to tackle number 2 and thats my PIR sensor or i should say sensors that only 1 of 3 works.
              Not sure if it is cable related it is a shielded cable i am using or that the ports are broken.
              When i use a meter i see that there is when there is movement 3.3 Volts coming off.
              This should trigger the arduino and says open in the control panel.
              But sadly only 1 PIR shows this, 2 days ago i restarted the computer several times and the arduino connected by usb restarted as well.
              Then suddenly they worked again for a short while (couple of hours)

              First step is putting them on different ports and see if that matters.

              Comment


              • #22
                It sounds like our guess of event timing being the problem with the curtain controller was correct. I thought that was the problem For the record, I would still recommend putting your relay board right next to the controller. The button inputs on the microcontroller in the Elero remote may be sensitive to noise picked up by long wires.

                As far as your OneWire and PIR devices, help me understand your system. I use DS18B20 devices reliably with mine. I am using only Arduino Mega 2560r3 boards. I use the back connector on the board which has 5V on the two pins just next to pins 22 and 23 and has grounds at the two pins on the opposite end of that connector. The OneWire devices are connected to that ground, that 5V supply and one of the Digital I/O pins (I usually use 23). I use a pull-up resistor between the 5V supply and the Digital I/O pin. For one or two OneWire Devices I use a 4.7K. I have connected as many as 6 to a single pin using a 3.3K pull-up.

                I have not used PIR devices - can you tell me what device you are using and how it is connected? Also tell me which Arduino board you are using. And finally, tell me how the Arduino is connected. How long is the USB cable and is it plugged directly into the computer or into a powered hub? If you are using a passive USB hub the boards will not reliably connect. unless you are using an external power supply for the Arduino. I do not think it is a good idea to use USB power to power the Arduino, I always use a separate power supply. I also recommend using a 6 volt supply. While the Arduino can be used with 6-20 volt supplies, the little analog regulator on the boards starts to get very warm wit 9 volts or more. While not recommended by Arduino, I successfully powered mine with 5V DC-DC converters for the first few months. Mine are now powered by POE with POE Ethernet shields.
                Randy Prade
                Aurora, CO
                Prades.net

                PHLocation - Pushover - EasyTrigger - UltraECM3 - Ultra1Wire3 - Arduino

                Comment


                • #23
                  I also had another thought on resetting your controller. What happens if you continue to press the channel down button when it is on channel 0? If it stops at 0 you could create a channel reset event that actuates the channel down button 4 or more times, assuring you that it starts at 0. You could even put that function at the beginning of your open and close events, just like you have done at the end.
                  Randy Prade
                  Aurora, CO
                  Prades.net

                  PHLocation - Pushover - EasyTrigger - UltraECM3 - Ultra1Wire3 - Arduino

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    The board i am using is an Arduino mega 2560 same as you i believe rev 3.
                    I am powering it with a external power supply in the port thats on the board for an adapter it is 5V dc 2A.

                    The 1-wire temp sensors i use are the same as you have DS18B20.

                    Made a daisy chain going trough the whole house , i read the whole site from jon00 about the 1-wire systems.
                    At this moment there are 3 connected , but i like to connect 3 more in some other rooms.

                    How i connected the 1-wire to the board, i used the description that Greig made and like you described with the 4.7K resistor over the 5+v and the data line

                    Ports i am using are the following

                    The Usb cable is a shielded one and about 4 ft long 1.20 meter.


                    Then the PIR i am using, i bougt a lot of 10 pieces.
                    They are "arduino designed" can power them with 5-20 volt if im correct but i am powering them with 5 Volt.
                    When they are triggered or see movement they send out 3.3volt on the data pin that i have connected to a port.

                    The cable i used is a 6 wire shielded cable , each PIR has his own cable.

                    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Infrared-PIR...-/230636887948

                    Using port 41/42/44/45 for them.
                    2 are in the living room, 1 is in the bathroom.
                    Checked with a multimeter to see if they had power, and they have 5Volt also response when there is movement 3.3 Vlt coming out.
                    Sometimes when the board is on, 3 pirs work but like a few days ago when i rebooted the computer en restarted homeseer a couple of times they turned on again.
                    Normally only 1 gives a signal to homeseer and thats one in the living room.
                    I tried others to see if the PIR was faulty but they acted the same, i thought that some pins maybe were broken but changing them did not do much as well.

                    Also i have seen allot of disconnects trough the last months on the board and when i tried to reconnect with the button in homeseer it did not work.
                    i needed to restart the computer and disconnect the external power supply before it worked again.
                    The only error i noticed in the little homeseer screen that runs on the background when you start it, it said something like com X is not available or something like that, i forgot to write it down since i had given up for a while about the arduino also because of allot of work.

                    But i reflashed the arduino a few days ago , because i wanted to connect a lan shield and i haven't seen disconnect yet.
                    (not using lan shield because i got a expansion board on it and that blocks some connectors on the lan shield ICMP if im not mistaking so i have to change that first.)

                    I can't find the picture of the remote control from the curtains but i will open it up take it away from the roof were its hidden so you can see it.
                    The solution you last noticed, it was a good one but there is 1 problem, the channels go from 0 to 15.
                    When you are on channel 15 and press up once more you jump to 0, same if you are on 0 and press down you go to 15.

                    The relay board is located near the remote control thats on the roof plates as you said a few posts earlier.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      I am a little short on time tonight, but one thing that immediately occurs to me is that 3.3V is a little ambiguous for an Arduino digital input. It likes to see 5 volts for a high and 0 volts for a low. It is generally accepted that the high should be greater than 4 volts and the low should be below 1 volt, otherwise you might get inconsistent action. Let me do some digging and I will let you know if I find anything. The Arduino Due is the only one currently designed for 3.3V logic. The coming Tre will also support 3.3V logic.

                      You might try a 3.3k resistor on the OneWire if it is a long cable. I *think* you can safely go as low as 2.2K to provide a more robust pull-up. The EDS OWServers use a constant current supply for pull-up in order to support the 22+ devices per loop.
                      Randy Prade
                      Aurora, CO
                      Prades.net

                      PHLocation - Pushover - EasyTrigger - UltraECM3 - Ultra1Wire3 - Arduino

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Thnks for the help, will do these suggestions to see how it goes.
                        And i can put the power a but higher for the PIR, the power output will go up as well i have tested a while ago.
                        Had not much time last couple of days, i got the key of my home so i was busy and still am with moving the stuff.

                        O and for several days in a row, its all going fine here at my parents house with the curtains and the luxaflex , opening and closing on time !
                        I am Very very happy

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Well, i must say that it started to go wrong again.
                          But i can't find why it did not work like it should.

                          my dad said this morning the luxaflex moved for a second.
                          Then the curtains started to open but only the top layers opened , the thin curtains were closed.


                          I just got home and the luxaflex did respond ok , closed and turned.
                          But the curtain did not respond well, just 1 windows was closed and those are on channel 3 and 4.

                          Very strange , first i thought the channels are mixed up. but when checked what channel it was on it was on the correct channel: 0

                          So it counts up and down correct.
                          Then i manually started the event, i checked the remote and noticed it counted up to 1, no curtain opened, then 2, no curtain opened, then 3 , curtain went open, then 4, curtain stays closed.

                          Closing all the curtains, and 1 2 3 4 , everything closed , well next to the ones that were still closed.
                          To be sure i edit the wait time with the button press for open and close maybe that it needs a second longer.

                          Then i started the open all event, and everything is back to normal :S :S

                          I do not know what went wrong, and i did not had the arduino debug on at this moment but in the HS log i did not see much strange.

                          I got the debug mode enabled now and hope for the best with the change in the event with the wait time.
                          It is very strange because for a couple of days in a row it worked without any problems.

                          Have not yet got the time to put 6volt or more on the PIR to see if this would work for it.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            According to the datasheet on your PIR model it uses a supply of 6-20 volts, but only outputs "3.3V TTL". I am not certain that is a problem, but it could be. I will go to my workshop after the holidays and do some testing to see how an Arduino deals with 3.3 volts on a digital input. You could also put an opto-isolator or a switching transistor on the PIR output to couple it to the Arduino input so that the Arduino sees a true 5 volt TTL level input.
                            Randy Prade
                            Aurora, CO
                            Prades.net

                            PHLocation - Pushover - EasyTrigger - UltraECM3 - Ultra1Wire3 - Arduino

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              According to the datasheet on your PIR model it uses a supply of 4.5-20 volts, but only outputs "TTL Voltage output (high 3.3V, low 0V)". I am not certain that is a problem, but it could be. I will go to my workshop after the holidays and do some testing to see how an Arduino deals with 3.3 volts on a digital input. You could also put an opto-isolator or a switching transistor on the PIR output to couple it to the Arduino input so that the Arduino sees a true 5 volt TTL level input.
                              Randy Prade
                              Aurora, CO
                              Prades.net

                              PHLocation - Pushover - EasyTrigger - UltraECM3 - Ultra1Wire3 - Arduino

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Thanks for all the trouble, i was actually thinking of using a transistor otherwise or a relay that it see's 5Volt input indeed.

                                But i have some bad/strange news again.
                                This morning some curtains did not open again, i checked the relay board and there is a faulty relay on it....
                                This is the second board that a relay fails :S
                                Well problem solved again but still i can't rely on these boards then, i probably build a board myself with more expensive and known components then to prevent this.

                                The cheap ebay boards look nice but they have dropouts..


                                EDIT:

                                well i have a board disconnect also.
                                Did not even noticed it until my mother told me nothing closed from itself this evening.
                                This is the only part i could find in the log, i had the arduino loggin on but only on outputs.

                                24-12-2014 ,10:02:21.608 Data Received:1 Rom 4010851200050000122 18.00
                                24-12-2014 ,10:02:21.609 Timer 1 Reset
                                24-12-2014 ,10:02:21.612 Rom Address = 37A967EA81EDF0FA , Value = 18.00
                                24-12-2014 ,10:02:21.617 Device Exists
                                24-12-2014 ,10:02:31.616 Data Received:1 Rom 4010851200050000122 17.50
                                24-12-2014 ,10:02:31.617 Timer 1 Reset
                                24-12-2014 ,10:02:31.620 Rom Address = 37A967EA81EDF0FA , Value = 17.50
                                24-12-2014 ,10:02:31.624 Device Exists




                                Dec-24 10:22:00 AM Arduino Plugin Disconnected from Board No:1 on COM6
                                Dec-24 10:22:00 AM Arduino Plugin Error = Board: 1 Connection FAILED.
                                Dec-24 10:21:28 AM Arduino Plugin Warning = Board: 1 has a connection ERROR. Retrying.
                                Reconnect does not work, i really have to pull out the usb cable and hope it works otherwise a full system reboot.

                                I have now since it does not reconnect made a simple event when the status is connection failed it shutdown homeseer and restart the computer.
                                But i guess i have to try with the LAN unit to make it work and see if it still has disconnects.
                                Since the last time i flashed the arduino it is better then before when it disconnected many times.
                                Last edited by Vincenttor; December 24th, 2014, 11:54 AM.

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