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    *NEWBIE ALERT*--

    I'm having a house built and am trying to do as much wiring done as I can before the drywall goes up. My plan is to put two Sony CD changers in the basement and control them with CDJ or an equivalent system on a home network.

    I'm interested in maintaining the flexibility to expand into Homeseer in the next few years.

    Any advice from the veterans out there for an HA novice?

    Thanks...

    #2
    I wish I had ran security wire to my doors and windows. I wish I had ran video wiring to all 4 corners of my house for cameras. So I would say at minimum. Cat5 in all rooms as well as at least one video cable and all of this cable terminating in a wiring closet.

    -Rupp
    -Rupp
    sigpic

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      #3
      Install all the Cat 5 cable you can afford to, then go out and get another roll and install it..........JG
      HS2PRO - Ocelot, SecuIR, Secu16, Attendence Management Alarm Interface, X-10, LCD Studio VFD Display, 3 Apexis IP Cams, Custom Software Interfaces, GMQ Geiger Graphing
      HS3PRO - Testing

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        #4
        Gents...great stuff, thanks. I've got Cat 5 going to each room, in some cases to multiple plates (boxes).

        MORE, MORE!

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          #5
          Make sure the Cat5 is Cat5e or Cat6

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            #6
            ...you could then monitor each doors locked/unlocked status. I really wish I had this. Also setting a plug-in near to each door (if it passes code) would be a good idea.

            -Rupp
            -Rupp
            sigpic

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              #7
              If I could be in your shoes....

              :Audio: 2 pair Speakers for every room for Homeseer speaking and your CD players, radio, home entertainment - and pre wire for future microphones. Future IR needs?
              :Video: Plenty of coax for rooms with TV’s, to share cable TV or modulated input from cameras
              :Computers: minimum 2 drops for computers, again Rupp’s spot on with a cabinet for all junctions of video, audio, networking, phones
              :Communications: While you're at it, phone drops for major rooms
              :Security: Rupps camera cables (there is very nice coax w/ power all in one cable available) for all corners of each house, the garage, and major doors. For home security- wire for hardwired motion detectors, siren, multiple keypads, hard-wired fire detectors (forget those pesky battery ones).

              And as stated before – extra runs of Cat5 – cuz ya just never know.
              I’ve been in my the attic WAY TO MUCH.

              -*(( Brent Kacian ))*-
              -*(( www.bkacian.com ))*-
              -*(( Homeseer - Ocelot ))*-
              -*(( phillips_brent@hotmail.com ))*-

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                #8
                Pete,

                Had you checked out this thread?

                Here's what I wrote in it.

                Here are some things we wired for in our home about 1.5 years ago when it was built.

                First off, we were able to select our builder. During the interviewing process I brought up wiring to each of the candidates. Here in Maryland, it's not necessary to get a low-voltage wiring permit, so it was mostly a task of finding a flexible builder to work with. We found one who thought HA sounded cool, and had no problem giving us a week's notice for when we'd be able to wire. When I showed him the witing plan, before we started, he nearly had a heart attack. I think we ran 2 miles of wire.

                Briefly, each room got 2 runs of CAT5 (phone/network), one quad-shielded RG6 (video), a CAT3 to the ceiling for a motion detector, a 2 pair 14 gauge wire to a volume control in each room, and a CAT5 to the volume control for IR. There was also a single pair 14 gauge cable run directly to each ceiling for a TTS speaker, and 2 single pair cables from the volume controls to the ceiling for the music speakers. Each room has 3 speakers: One stereo pair is hooked to the vol control, which, in turn is attached through an HACS AB8SS speaker switcher to an MP3 server. A single speaker in each room is hooked through a secondary AB8SS to the HS machine. I didn't want our kids to accidentally turn the volume control off and nuke our TTS announcements, hence the three speakers.

                CAT3 was run to some window and door locations, to the garage door openers and also to the doors, themselves for magnetic sensors. CAT5 was run to the power meter for an IR sensor that counts revolutions of the disk inside. Phone/network CAT5 was run to the TV for CID overlay and who knows what in the future. 2 RG6 were run from the attic to the TV in case we use an antenna later on. Several runs of CAT5 were run from the attic to the wiring closet for the Davis weather station. CAT5 was run to the thermostat locations, as well as to the furnaces. Video runs to the kitchen cabinets in case we add an under-counter TV in the future. RG6 (video) and CAT5 (power) were run to all the corners of the house for video cameras, as well as to the front porch lantern. We didn't wire for microphones, as I always thought I'd use the phones for that sort of thing.

                "Booger cable" was run along the driveway for a sensor and to the mailbox for another sensor. Pulsor sensors were attached to several joists and some other items that are slipping my mind right now were wired.

                Oh, most importantly, we ran a 3" PVC pipe from the attic to the basement to make it easier to add cable in the future. I've already used it.

                Only a subset of the items I mentioned are being utilized right now, but I wanted to wire the living daylights out of the place while I could. All the cable cost about $800, total. Not too bad when you consider a retrofit later on.

                Oh, if I were to do it again, what would I do differently? I'd use different color CAT5 for phone vs. network. That would've made life so much easier. Also, I would have done what Dan Hoehnen did in his house, and had wider electrical switch boxes (e.g. 3 gang instead of 2 gang) placed in the main rooms so I could install some of the Leviton multi-button switch devices in there.

                --David

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                  #9
                  Hi,
                  you might also run a separate 110 volt feed to at least the main group of light switches in each room.
                  for example in my master bedroom I was then able to install an x10 controller switch without affecting a prewired wall socket or light and the associated switch. Also dont forget, two separate circuits for a ceiling fan and its light.
                  Stuart

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                    #10
                    David Kindred,

                    I agree with you, and particularly about the PVC pipe from basement to attic. But please make it a bundle of three or four 3" pipes, and fill them one at a time. You will find that there is a time when you can't pull a wire or cable (or what have you) because it gets caught or stuck, or you have filled up the pipe. I went with one 3" pipe, and I'm now filling in my air ducts. I may need to by one of those high efficiency furnaces that vents out the sidewall of the home so I can gain more room for wires!

                    regards,

                    GenevaDude

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                      #11
                      Thick as I am, I think what I'm hearing is to OD on Cat5. More info that may encourage more comments:

                      My builder, like in previous threads, won't let me wire anything as it will "nullify the warranty." They have a contractor who offers "packages" that includes a box and a per outlet charge. Add to that my fiancee's concern about driving up the cost and you can see my predicament. What I plan to do is get with the contractor and see if they'll do a lot more wiring (but no outlets) that will at least allow me to have the wire in the walls already.

                      Good Plan?

                      Also, I understand the concept about the PVC, but how do you get to the wire on say, the first floor?

                      Signed,
                      Learning More by the Minute

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                        #12
                        The PVC idea is intended for a floor to floor installation. So, One pipe from basement to first floor. Another pipe from first floor to second floor and so on. The perfect scenario would have these pipe terminate in a wiring closet.

                        -Rupp
                        -Rupp
                        sigpic

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                          #13
                          <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by USMCPete:
                          Also, I understand the concept about the PVC, but how do you get to the wire on say, the first floor?
                          <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

                          I know not all areas of the country have them, but we have a basement in our house. The wiring closet is located down there next to the furnaces, and it was easy to get access to the first floor from below. Don't forget to wire for motion sensors, while you're at it. I ran them in the corner directly opposite and entrance to a room, and zig-zagged the wire between the joists, lightly held in with staples. That way, when I get fed up with the Hawkeyes, I can make a very small hole in the ceiling and use a coat hanger to easily snag the wires spanning the joist to install hard-wired units.

                          In the second floor rooms, where I placed the ceiling speaker wiring, I took rigid foam insulation and duct tape and built boxes around each speaker area (just a little higher than the ceiling joists. We had insulation blown in, and I knew it would be a mess later on, if I didn't plan ahead about that. Sure enough, I mis-measured one room, and cut a nice big hole in the ceiling, letting a pile of fluffy insulation get everywhere. What a mess! That was one of my lessons: make sure when you measure where the speakers are, and one of the measurements uses a closet as a reference, that you note whether the door was open or not. I did my measurements when there was no drywall (or door) on the closet. Whoops! I was more careful later and made *different* mistakes. Variety is good.

                          BTW, for anyone installing ceiling speakers, I took the advice of Nick Tambourri (if you've been to an HA show, you know this buddy of ours), and bought a Rotozip took with a circle cutter attachment. With 30 or 40 holes to cut here, it sure was worth it.

                          --David

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                            #14
                            I interviewed a builder last year whom initially said I could do my own low voltage wiring then later said that only he could do it on a per connection basis (which would have been very expensive). I chose another builder. Did house in FL (new construction). Interesting that wiring was a joint family effort. Central wiring all went to laundry room closet. There I also put a double duplex 120v outlet. Argued with the phone man as he was wiring the phones in series. Basically used RG-6u everywhere and more. Ran double sets to all rooms and 6 to where stereo and tv were. Cat5 similiar. Used a heavier guage speaker wire wiring each room's two speaker locations to a near light switch box for volume control then back to central wiring area. In addition put a couple of pairs of shielded microphone cable to line in/out from stereo area to central wiring area. In addition put four feeds to where satellite dish was going to be and 2 to where cable comes in plus one more for outdoor aerial. Since then I have used many but not all my wires yet. Very easy to do yourself if there are no walls up. It took us (family) about two whole days to wire up the house.
                            - Pete

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                              #15
                              Why didn't he just exclude the low voltage stuff from the warranty? That would still allow you to do what you needed. Some of this stuff sounds like a racket. They figure they got ya.

                              SteveP

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