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  • jasonhollis
    replied
    So how would you make it loop? e.g. if the there is motion in the bath room and the lux level is below a certain point turn on the light for 15 minutes then I need it to if the humidity has risen on the virtual machine and wait to turn the light off until the humidity is back to normal. Does that make sense?

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  • CharlieWayne
    replied
    Originally posted by jasonhollis View Post
    Team,

    I seem to have a requirement or idea that has not be addressed yet by anyone. When someone walks into the bathroom (e.g. motion) and the LUX level is below 25 I want to kick on the hue's in the bathroom. I'm all good with that bit but then I want to wait 10 minutes and if the humidity is on the increase (probably more complex) or above 55% I want to leave the lights on because someone is in the shower or tub. Basically when the humidity drops back down after 15 minutes I want the lights to go back off.

    Any thoughts on the best logic for this requirement?
    Don't base your event to tigger off of humidity in the bathroom, base it off of humidity difference.

    You will need to create a vitural Devive that takes bathroom humidity, then deducts another rooms humidity = Humidity DIFF. The reason I recommend this, is cause humidty changed thoughout the year and so would you event, doing the way you suggested it would adjust with climate.

    Once you get the event working on humidity Difference, then you just need to dial in what's an acceptable threshold.
    Last edited by CharlieWayne; November 18, 2018, 10:15 PM.

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  • jasonhollis
    replied
    Team,

    I seem to have a requirement or idea that has not be addressed yet by anyone. When someone walks into the bathroom (e.g. motion) and the LUX level is below 25 I want to kick on the hue's in the bathroom. I'm all good with that bit but then I want to wait 10 minutes and if the humidity is on the increase (probably more complex) or above 55% I want to leave the lights on because someone is in the shower or tub. Basically when the humidity drops back down after 15 minutes I want the lights to go back off.

    Any thoughts on the best logic for this requirement?

    Leave a comment:


  • Pete
    replied
    A bit overpriced just purchased a 1-wire temperature sensor with a power LED on it. I've never seen one of these before and its more of a curiousity purchase. I could make a little glowing glass jar outdoor sealed temperature sensor out of it....

    Ebay search: Digital DS18B20 Temperature Measurement Sensor Module

    Price: $4.39

    Specs:
    1. board DS18B20 chip left 3P hole seat easily accessible DS18B20 chip.
    2. pin chip has all the leads, built-in pull-up resistor.
    3. Onboard power indicator.
    4. board size: 21 (mm) x10 (mm)
    Attached Files

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  • NeverDie
    replied
    Originally posted by CharlieWayne View Post
    Being many devices calibrated or not are all reading different specs, how.do you know which one is correct to establish a baseline?
    You can run a saturated salt test. The 75% relative humidity saturated salt test can be made using regular table salt:

    http://harizanov.com/2013/06/dht22-a...y-test-part-1/

    http://harizanov.com/2013/06/dht22-a...-test-part-22/

    Also, Ambient Weather sells a couple different tests that operate on a similar principle. With their gear, you seal your sensor/device in their ziplock bag that will attain a standardized RH.

    Leave a comment:


  • Olbrit
    replied
    Originally posted by CharlieWayne View Post
    Olbrit: do u have a conditioned attic with foam on the underside of the roof deck?
    I'll assume those numbers in you attachment are from your FL home?
    That's good idea on buying a certified humidstat to set your base line.
    Hi Charlie, well spotted! When I bought the FL house in 2009 I found the HVAC ran 8+ hours/day in Summer, barely kept up with the setpoint and cost a fortune in electricity. The HVAC fan coil and ducts are in the attic that could reach 120+ degrees when it was 90 outside, plus 1/3 of the roof was flat i.e. no attic access. Roof underside icynene foam wasn't able to be applied, so after research I bought SureCoat and painted the entire outside roof area, shingles, flat asphalt, etc., plus I had lots of blown insulation applied in the attic space, and installed a solar-powered attic fan. Result was an attic that rarely goes 5 degrees above outside ambient temperature, but does not have to be conditioned. Made a huge reduction on the frequency and duration of HVAC runs and saved me a ton on electricity costs.
    Last edited by Olbrit; July 18, 2013, 01:09 PM.

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  • CharlieWayne
    replied
    Re: Humidity Sensors

    Sorry, I didn't finish my post.

    So as an example in above attachment,
    Green is Cool Setpoint
    Purple is Actual Temp
    Blue is Actual Humidity.
    Tstat has a 3 degree deadband.

    At the 2nd 8am-9am the actual temp hits the top of the deadband Turing on the A/C system. U will see the humidity start to rise almost 10-12% when in fact running the A/C should dehumidify.

    At around 2pm my A/C shuts off and then the actual humidity drops about 18% in mins.

    If I had humidity sensors that would.feed this data base, I would likely find that attic humidity levels would resemble the peak levels of humidity on the chart.

    Now based on this observation using the overlaid charts, I believe that when my Air Handler turns on it is creating a vacuum in the house and drawing attic are down through the wire holes in the walls top plate and then through the hole in the wall where Tstat is mounted.

    A little bit of caulk, foam, or acoustical sealant on the top plate would confirm my suspicions.

    Now this is just one of many examples of how it could be used.

    Steve, you said in the summer you have very high humidity levels yet in the winter you have to run a humidifier a lot. Setting up sensors inside the building envelope, attic, and outside might start showing you where your faults are. Correcting these faults would have major impacts on both energy and comfort. A simple blower door test might door the same but where's the fun in that.

    In the coming time I plan to start a simple 1 wire network to gain better understanding of my home and the retro needs to.conform with today's energy efficient models.

    Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2
    Last edited by CharlieWayne; July 17, 2013, 10:02 PM. Reason: typing errors

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  • CharlieWayne
    replied
    Re: Humidity Sensors

    Originally posted by Steve Q View Post
    Charlie, how do you use the humidity data with Homeseer? Do you have events that are triggered by humidity? I have only one digital humidity sensor and it is not hooked up to HomeSeer. (It is a wireless Meade Instruments sender, but I do not have the receiver). I have moved it all around the house for the past year and it has not provided any information that I didn't already know. In the summer, high humidity is a problem. My air conditioning is my only source of humidity control. But the humidity is was it is. I would not use Homeseer to run the AC more to lower the humidity. In the winter, low inside humidity is the issue. I have a humidifier on my furnace controlled by a humidistat. The humidifier works when the furnace fan runs. In the winter, Homeseer turns on the furnace fan (via my Z wave tsat) multiple times throughout the day to even out the temperature and add humidity. This approach works well. I suppose in the winter I could monitor the humidity and run the furnace fan more or less based on the humidity setting, but this approach runs counter to my energy conservation approach!

    Steve Q


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    Hey Steve, right now I only have my Venstar Tstat hooked up to HS and am using McsTemp to build a data base. Today triggers are not the intent but once I expand the system, I will start to incorporate some triggers such as bathroom humidty for exhaust fans, humidity triggers for a whole house dehumidifier, warnings through email or HS speaker client for extreme humidity (cautious about mold or fungus), and anything else that might come up.

    Right now my main imtemt is to you all this as a diagnostic tool. One of the additional humidity sensors I have is a Meade temp/humidity station with remote sensors as well. It works and I make note of it to watch my attic temp and humidity but it has its limits.

    In the above picture I attached the data is overlaid on each other. By looking at multiple sources of data I can use this to troubleshoot. Let me show u an example.

    Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2

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  • CharlieWayne
    replied
    Olbrit: do u have a conditioned attic with foam on the underside of the roof deck?
    I'll assume those numbers in you attachment are from your FL home?
    That's good idea on buying a certified humidstat to set your base line.

    Leave a comment:


  • Olbrit
    replied
    Originally posted by CharlieWayne View Post
    This is exactly what I'm getting at. Being many devices calibrated or not are all reading different specs, how.do you know which one is correct to establish a baseline?
    You're right, initially you can't know if any of them can be used to establish a baseline, which is why I invested in a 3rd party calibrated temp/humid sensor from this company: http://www.control3.com/cgi-local/fu...?col1=Humidity. This removed my guesswork and if I feel like it I can send it back for recalibration every couple of years or so.

    I use Jon00's excellent graphing utility to which he kindly added an 'offset' capability for me, so I can enter the average deviation from datum for each temperature and humidity reading, which means that the graphs below show the 'corrected' data.
    Attached Files

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  • Pete
    replied
    Yup here in the winter I do control the humidifier and try to get some 35-40% even humidity levels throughout the house.

    Now with the heat humidity levels are running some 45-50% in the house except for the basement which I keep at lower levels.

    Homeseer does the double checking of my temps and humidity levels more than anything with a "look see" but do not touch methodology thing.

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  • Steve Q
    replied
    Humidity Sensors

    Charlie, how do you use the humidity data with Homeseer? Do you have events that are triggered by humidity? I have only one digital humidity sensor and it is not hooked up to HomeSeer. (It is a wireless Meade Instruments sender, but I do not have the receiver). I have moved it all around the house for the past year and it has not provided any information that I didn't already know. In the summer, high humidity is a problem. My air conditioning is my only source of humidity control. But the humidity is was it is. I would not use Homeseer to run the AC more to lower the humidity. In the winter, low inside humidity is the issue. I have a humidifier on my furnace controlled by a humidistat. The humidifier works when the furnace fan runs. In the winter, Homeseer turns on the furnace fan (via my Z wave tsat) multiple times throughout the day to even out the temperature and add humidity. This approach works well. I suppose in the winter I could monitor the humidity and run the furnace fan more or less based on the humidity setting, but this approach runs counter to my energy conservation approach!

    Steve Q


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

    Leave a comment:


  • Pete
    replied
    I don't really see too many differences in temps and humidity except for rooms that are not utilized and where the vents are closed. I do also have a few HAI temp and combo temp / humidity sensors.

    The HAI Omnistat2 also has direct connects to more sensors such that you can utilize an averaging between these sensors for setting your thermostat. I purchased a few of those a couple of years ago to play with.

    I have left the control and scheduling of the HVAC to the HAI panel and thermostat and HAI panel and thermostat/panel connected sensors. I utilize the 1-wire sensors for my own thing and comparing the temperatures to the HAI temps which are relatively the same anyways. I do utilize the 1-wire humidity sensors in the basement and it is kind of indirectly connected to the de humidifier.

    I do keep my furnace fan on 24/7. It's been very warm here in the last few days and I have kept the thermostat at 72 (hold). In the basement though I do run a dehumifier. Looking just now noticed my wife set it to 70F instead. House temps are about 1-2 degrees higher on the second floor.

    I did though replace the outside AC unit last year. Old one was some 10 years old which kind of PO'd me. That said installer "was" the partner / owner of an HVAC company. He is semi retired and his partner is totally retired. I have known him and his partner (she is also retired) for some 25 years now. I did help / watch the installation and put the endeavor in his hands. The unit outside appears to be twice the size of the old unit but has a similiarly sized compressor. It's been working fine but I hear the rise and fall of the line pressure which bugs me a bit and I have called him regarding said concern.

    Over the years though as I changed over to utilizing the Omnistat RC-80 and automating the whole HVAC thing it did cause some grief in general. Old fashioned methodologies versus what I was doing "complicating" things.....meanwhile learned much diagnostics and DIY stuff relating to my HVAC setup ....that and concurrently doing IT stuff hanging around their offices for some 25 years or so....
    Last edited by Pete; July 17, 2013, 07:47 AM.

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  • CharlieWayne
    replied
    Re: Humidity Sensors

    Originally posted by Olbrit View Post
    I got these more useable by buying a separate non-Z-Wave NIST calibrated temp/humid sensor and sitting all 7 sensors side by side on a table for a few days and noted their readings every few hours or so. Using the NIST sensor as the datum I could then determine an approximate deviation for each ST814 and include that in any HS calculation.
    This is exactly what I'm getting at. Being many devices calibrated or not are all reading different specs, how.do you know which one is correct to establish a baseline?


    On a diff note, environment can also impact accuracy either knowingly or not. What has started this whole concern of mine is the data records I'm getting from a Tstat with.humidity sensor. I started seeing large rises in humidity during times it should be falling. I bought 2 other devices as I first thought a defective humidity sensor in my Venstar T1900 Tstat. After comparing each temp/humidity combo device I notified little diff in temp but humidity was not consistent.

    What I suspect the issue with my incorrect Tstat reading are that the blower motor is sucking Hot Humid through holes in my walls top plate, down the wall and through the vents on the actuall Tstat. The issue with data is that once the A/C kicks on then the humifty readings slowly rise very high, and then when u turn the HVAC off the humidity drops 10-15% in 90 seconds or less. My point here is that environment plays huge factors into accuracy and if these swings in humidity were no so severe, I would have likely never found out about this error.

    Pete I think has a lot of experiences with many systems as well Rupp from the post I read. What have you encountered with errors and how did u detect or correct such?



    Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2
    Attached Files

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  • Pete
    replied
    Here I have been using 4 types of 1-wire combo temperature and humidity sensors.

    1 - AAG very old combo sensors - first gen - tiny circular combo sensor about 1/2 the size of my thumbnail - parasitic - after around 15 years still working just fine.
    2 - newer AAG combo sensors - in the legacy telephone jack cases - don't recall when I purchased these - still working fine - did purchase these from AAG.
    3 - Hobby boards combo sensors
    4 - Midon Design combo sensors

    Most recently I like the Midon combo sensors. Today currently utilize 3 Midon Design Temp0X 1-wire devices and 3 Maxim Integrated Serial 9097's and 1 noname USB 9097 with two mini stereo jacks on it for the 1-wire sensors. Note that the Hobby boards and Midon Design combo sensors utilize different DC voltages. My preferences would be that all of the sensors be parasitic. They used to be but no longer are.

    The last one above I purchased as a package with two sealed temperature sensors and cable and extension cables. It works as well as the Maxim Integrates ones which I purchased from Maxim.

    Long time ago went to wiring in a star topology using cat5e with one run per sensor. Today's recommendations are a star / hub and spoke with sensors connected to one run in a perpendicular fashion. I have numerous temperature and combo sensors outside and inside of the house.

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