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  • #16
    Received the Radio Thermostat CT101 today.

    Link for CT101 on thesmartesthouse dot come states:

    WORKS WITH
    • 2GIG Panel
    • ADT Pulse
    • Almond (Securify)
    • Fibaro Home Center 2
    • Fibaro Home Center Lite
    • Home Assistant
    • HomeSeer
    • Iris
    • Nexia
    • SmartThings Hub
    • VeraEdge Z-Wave Gateway Controller
    • VeraLite Z-Wave Gateway Controller
    • VeraPlus Z-Wave Plus Advanced Home Controller
    • Vivint
    • Wink



    It came in a plain white box with no labels. The only reference to Iris is in the installation and operation manual:

    To pair with an Iris TM system please follow instructions below
    Your new thermostat needs to be paired to an IrisTM system to leverage the IrisTM service. Follow the instructions below depending on whether this is an upgrade to an existing system, or you are installing your thermostat as part of a new Iris TM system.
    Adding your IrisTM Thermostat to an existing Iris system:
    1. Log into your IrisTM dashboard and click the ‘devices’ link.
    2. Select ‘add devices’
    3. Follow the on screen instructions

    Adding your Iris TM Thermostat to a new Iris TM system:
    1. Follow the installation guide that was supplied with your IrisTM smart hub.
    2. The onscreen installation process will ask which devices you have.
    Make sure that the Thermostat is selected.
    3. The onscreen instructions will describe the steps to add your Thermostat.

    Once your thermostat has been paired successfully with your IrisTM system, programming is simple.

    Just click on the thermostat widget and adjust your settings. There is no need to manually program your thermostat when paired with IrisTM.
    Please note that your thermostat will function as a normal programmable thermostat should you ever choose to cancel your IrisTM service.


    1 - put batteries in device.
    2 - connected a 24VAC transformer to terminal C and terminal RH

    Plugged it in and set it in the laundry room. Went to link mode and paired it with RPi / ZWave in the attic. No issues with pairing.

    Created 9 devices in Homeseer.

    [ATTACH]69183[/ATTACH]

    I see a humidity reading on the thermostat and zero for the HS3 humidity value.

    There are no terminals for humidity or dehumidity control on the thermostat even though the terminals are mentioned in the manual.
    Must be a different model that has humidity control.

    Removing the CT101 node and connecting it to the Smarthings hub next.
    Last edited by Pete; June 4th, 2018, 08:14 PM.
    - Pete

    Auto mator
    Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU 16Gb- Mono 6.8X
    Homeseer Zee2 (Lite) - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e - CherryTrail x5-Z8350 BeeLink 4Gb BT3 Pro - Mono 6.8X
    HS4 Pro - V4.0.5.0 - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Kaby Lake CPU - 32Gb - Mono 6.8X
    HS4 Lite -

    X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation. OmniPro 2, Russound zoned audio, Smartthings hub, Hubitat Hub, and Home Assistant

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by Pete View Post
      Received the Radio Thermostat CT101 today.

      Link for CT101 on thesmartesthouse dot come states:

      WORKS WITH
      • 2GIG Panel
      • ADT Pulse
      • Almond (Securify)
      • Fibaro Home Center 2
      • Fibaro Home Center Lite
      • Home Assistant
      • HomeSeer
      • Iris
      • Nexia
      • SmartThings Hub
      • VeraEdge Z-Wave Gateway Controller
      • VeraLite Z-Wave Gateway Controller
      • VeraPlus Z-Wave Plus Advanced Home Controller
      • Vivint
      • Wink



      It came in a plain white box with no labels. The only reference to Iris is in the installation and operation manual:

      To pair with an Iris TM system please follow instructions below

      1 - put batteries in device.
      2 - connected a 24VAC transformer to terminal C and terminal RH

      Plugged it in and set it in the laundry room. Went to link mode and paired it with RPi / ZWave in the attic. No issues with pairing.

      Created 9 devices in Homeseer.

      [ATTACH]69183[/ATTACH]

      Removed node to program thermostat.
      Pete, I have basically done the same thing as you have done (several times) and got the same results in HS. I have the edge and it has the latest firmware. The humidity did not report in the vera either. It still doesn't report in HS after playing with the parameters. I wonder if thesmartesthouse has ever tested it on the edge?

      Comment


      • #18
        Tested the thermostat with the Almond +.

        The Almond + paired with the CT102 with no issues. I do not see any humidity readings on the Almond +.

        [ATTACH]69185[/ATTACH]

        Testing with Samsung Hub and it shows the thermostat as a CT-100 and shows humidity. The humidity value though never really changes.

        [ATTACH]69187[/ATTACH]

        Update.

        Looking this morning at status on Samsung Smartthings GUI humidity remains at 46% while thermostat is showing 49%.

        Noticed yesterday that I did not set the time and it was sync'd with controller when it was paired; Homeseer 3, Almond + and Samsung Smartthings.

        All written above the thermostat is a good deal at $35 plus shipping for a basic ZWave thermostat except

        1 - ZWave doesn't read humidity as mentioned by cowinger
        2 - display is small
        3 - noticed it has no hold function
        4 - no humidifier control

        Probably sending it back.
        Last edited by Pete; June 5th, 2018, 06:51 AM.
        - Pete

        Auto mator
        Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU 16Gb- Mono 6.8X
        Homeseer Zee2 (Lite) - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e - CherryTrail x5-Z8350 BeeLink 4Gb BT3 Pro - Mono 6.8X
        HS4 Pro - V4.0.5.0 - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Kaby Lake CPU - 32Gb - Mono 6.8X
        HS4 Lite -

        X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation. OmniPro 2, Russound zoned audio, Smartthings hub, Hubitat Hub, and Home Assistant

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by Stuart View Post
          My biggest fear is that when hooking up two systems (heat and Ac) on the same thermostat always presents a problem. You have two separate power supplies. I bought one of the earlier made zwave thermostats and had to hack the board. I rewired the internal relays and isolated the contacts for each unit. Also ran a separate 24 VAC wire to run independently of any heating system supply. Another thermostat runs a separate relay to switch heating. I once had a heating system control board fry so I purposely keep all switching on independent contacts.

          Stuart
          Stuart

          Regarding your note about hacking the board.

          I am interested in any kind of mod to my CT-101's to isolate/divorce the power supply used for the ZWAVE radio from terminals C and Rh. Unfortunately I do not have a common from either the boiler or the AC system transformers and it would be quote a chore to get an Rh common to the three CT-101's in the house. What I do have is a spare 24VAC dedicated xfmr source at each thermostat location from the old Aprilaire T-stats I replaced.

          Did you have any internal wiring info on the CT-101 before I consider this? It's a shame these eat batteries every 2-3 months as they have provided impressive results on HS3 and could also use the ZWAVE repeaters feature if I can get these powered up.

          Thanks

          Will

          Comment


          • #20
            started looking at mini relays as an option and took a step back for a second....I believe I am over thinking this. I will give this a shot.

            https://radiothermostat.desk.com/cus...our-thermostat

            Comment


            • #21
              Will,
              I have a separate 24 VAC supply that run all my thermostats. I don't have the common wires from heat and ac. I cut the etches on the thermostat relays and basically I'm running an isolated set of contacts for each system. They don't even know the other exists. That way I also have original thermostats from when they first installed and the wiring did not have to change.

              Stuart

              Comment


              • #22
                Thanks for the tip Stuart. I went with the step from the mfgr with my existing 24VAC loop I had as a spare to each location and it works. So far so good. I wish I knew this before I went through a at least 36 AA batteries in the past 13 months

                Comment

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