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    Need advice on extending ethernet cables

    My older home has plaster walls and ceilings and is a bit of a mess from a wired network perspective and no expectation of significant recabling in the foreseeable future. During a 2003 renovation a number of cat5e cables were run to various rooms from an aggregation point that no longer serves the purpose and has to be relocated.

    In short, I need to extend 9 cat5e cables ~20' and would appreciate advice on my options.

    Thoughts so far:

    1. A bunch of RJ45 couplers with patch cables to the new closet. Concern is quality of connection both initially and over time. The couplers would be behind an access panel, inside a wall cavity that has openings to the crawl space (sealed crawl space, but it's an old drafty house and the crawl space is musty and dirt-floor). Not possible to seal off the area from other parts of the wall cavity. Humidity, dust--and potentially insect--control would be next to impossible so I'm concerned about quality of connections over time.
    2. Punch down type patch panel at existing termination point. Same as above except half as many RJ-45 connections, the other half punched down. Maybe better?
    3. A bunch of punch down junction boxes. I have a few of these in my cobbled together network now and they seem to do ok although I don't have means to do any testing beyond basic continuity and observing networked PC performance. This seems the best of the options I've identified.
    4. Keep a network switch in service at the current location. I've ruled this out due to various issues like ventilation, code compliance (or more to the point, safety), dust/humidity control.

    It's not a high-performance network, I just don't want to do something that has high likelihood of degrading the performance I have now. Are there other options I'm not aware of? Anyone know of a punch down block that can splice several cables in one box, preferably sealed? Other?

    Thanks.
    -Wade

    #2
    Main thing is the quality of the terminations. As long as you are careful not to untwist the pairs too much when you punch them or add the RJ45s then there should not be too much degradation. I would favor option 2, not because it is "better" but it is easier, probably cheaper, and easy to work with if you need to do troubleshooting.

    Comment


      #3
      Appreciate the feedback Mike.
      -Wade

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        #4
        I have had pretty good luck using this style:

        https://www.amazon.com/Dshot-network...4308711&sr=8-2

        Comment


          #5
          Check out the Monoprice web site too.

          Personally like Amazon's return policy and quick delivery.

          - Pete

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            #6
            Originally posted by Pete View Post
            Check out the Monoprice web site too.

            Personally like Amazon's return policy and quick delivery.
            Yes, I seem to be a big contributor to Amazon's wealth and fame. Thanks for the monoprice tip. Have purchased a few things from them but wouldn't have thought to look there for this.
            -Wade

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              #7
              A while back here was doing a mounting LCD TV on walls thing. (kitchen, laundry room, bedrooms, et al) Purchased the double in wall plastic boxes from Menards (empty) for around $15. Then went to monoprice and purchased keystone wall plates for the non electrical side of the plastic wall box. I was able to fit a lot cable connects using 4-8 port keystone plates. Today you can purchase any type of keystone connector for the keystone wall plates.

              If I want it fast I still go to Amazon. Well and Amazon sells Monoprice products.
              - Pete

              Auto mator
              Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU 16Gb
              Homeseer Zee2 (Lite) - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e - CherryTrail x5-Z8350 BeeLink 4Gb BT3 Pro
              HS4 Lite - Ubuntu 22.04 / Lenovo Tiny M900 / 32Gb Ram

              HS4 Pro - V4.1.18.1 - Ubuntu 22.04 / Lenova Tiny M900 / 32Gb Ram
              HSTouch on Intel tabletop tablets (Jogglers) - Asus AIO - Windows 11

              X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation-Tasmota-Espurna. OmniPro 2, Russound zoned audio, Alexa, Cheaper RFID, W800 and Home Assistant

              Comment


                #8
                You need a good Network Switch at the initial location (control room) and a Patch Panel at mid-location


                Eman.
                TinkerLand : Life's Choices,"No One Size Fits All"

                Comment


                  #9
                  Put the connectors or switch in a box or in a small IP54 cabinet?
                  ​​​​https://www.orico.cc/usmobile/produc...l/id/2791.html

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Broes View Post
                    Put the connectors or switch in a box or in a small IP54 cabinet?
                    ​​​​https://www.orico.cc/usmobile/produc...l/id/2791.html
                    Interesting thought. Maybe this.
                    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...IC79JS3F&psc=1
                    -Wade

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                      #11
                      Yes looks perfect, wheather resistent so keeps insects, dust and moisture outside. Big enough to host 9 connectors (you need a bigger box for a switch) and it looks like the cable in-/outlet is designed for network cables.

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                        #12
                        Since there will be no need to move the connections around I recommend a 110 punch down block with c-clips. That way your connections have a corrosion resistant seal due to the deformation of the wire when punched into the block. This greatly reduces the probability of connectivity issues due to environmental factors. This method has been used for many years and has proven to be very reliable. I've seen 110 blocks in attics and basements that were damp, dusty, covered in crud and/or spider webs, which had experienced no issues over decades of service. 110 blocks are flame retardant and there are enclosures that will fit the blocks if you want an extra measure of protection.

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	HowToWireA110Block-Closeup.jpg Views:	0 Size:	145.7 KB ID:	1459409
                        You can cross-connect or simply punch down the incoming wires right down on top of the premise wiring using the c-clips.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Alex_W View Post
                          Since there will be no need to move the connections around I recommend a 110 punch down block with c-clips. That way your connections have a corrosion resistant seal due to the deformation of the wire when punched into the block. This greatly reduces the probability of connectivity issues due to environmental factors. This method has been used for many years and has proven to be very reliable. I've seen 110 blocks in attics and basements that were damp, dusty, covered in crud and/or spider webs which had experienced no issues over decades of service. 110 blocks are flame retardant and there are enclosures that will fit the blocks if you want an extra measure of protection.
                          Thanks Alex.
                          -Wade

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