20a no neutral wifi switch?

[outbackrob]

40 yo 3000sqft warehouse with three rows of Fluorescent fixtures. 48 8’ bulbs replaced with 50w LED bulbs for a total of 2400 watts. There are two doors and the ONE switch for those lights is not by the door near parking. I want to automate the switch. Unfortunately, the one switch is not wired with a neutral. This is a rental space so I don’t want to rewire. Anyone using a WiFi switch that doesn’t require a neutral and can handle 20 amps? I have not been able to find one.

Alternative methods are appreciated.

[Kevb]

Switchbot? https://us.switch-bot.com/pages/switchbot-bot

[Michael McSharry]

While I have not been in the market for these, I have not seem any WiFi that can do above 16A other than contactors. I have not seen a contactor that does not use a neutral.

Switchbot did not come to mind so this is a novel input. I have a set of switchbox devices that I will be integrating.

Another concept may be to derate your circuit with a 15A breaker if you do not need the 20A. Replace a lamp with LED if necessary. Check local codes before doing something like this.

[outbackrob]

Switchbot? https://us.switch-bot.com/pages/switchbot-bot

Great idea. I saw these a year or so ago and completely forgot about them. This might be the ticket!

Thank you!

[outbackrob]

While I have not been in the market for these, I have not seem any WiFi that can do above 16A other than contactors. I have not seen a contactor that does not use a neutral.

Switchbot did not come to mind so this is a novel input. I have a set of switchbox devices that I will be integrating.

Another concept may be to derate your circuit with a 15A breaker if you do not need the 20A. Replace a lamp with LED if necessary. Check local codes before doing something like this.

I have not found one above 10A....

Switchbot. Very novel!

I bet with some better inspection I could find some way to either rewire or add a neutral. If I knew for sure that I would be here long term, I would do it.

[Wade]

The Shelly1 is rated for 16A.

[kenm]

I have not found one above 10A....

Switchbot. Very novel!

I bet with some better inspection I could find some way to either rewire or add a neutral. If I knew for sure that I would be here long term, I would do it.

I'm not sure about Texas but here in California we have what is called "tenant improvements". If you make an improvement to the space, you can deduct the cost from future rent payments. Of course, the improvement needs to be pre-approved by the landlord. The net cost to you is ZERO and the landlord gets the benefit of the improvement.

[outbackrob]

The Shelly1 is rated for 16A.

That or something very similar was looked at early on. The issue is still no neutral. And, there is no power anywhere near that door so I can't even go the DC route.

.....though, I guess I could use a battery pack. Hmmm. I had not really considered that......

[outbackrob]

I'm not sure about Texas but here in California we have what is called "tenant improvements". If you make an improvement to the space, you can deduct the cost from future rent payments. Of course, the improvement needs to be pre-approved by the landlord. The net cost to you is ZERO and the landlord gets the benefit of the improvement.

Interesting. I haven't heard of anything like that, but I haven't rented anything in over 20 years. Thanks!

[Wade]

Another option is to install a smart relay in the junction box that feeds the lighting circuit--where the existing switch leg drops from. The Shelly1 could work (16A), or if you're not space constrained, the Zooz Zen16 has a 20A relay with the added trigger work of needing a low voltage power supply.

From there, your existing switch leg and dumb switch can serve as the external switch to the relay. Alternatively, if you really want a smart switch for other purposes like central scene etc, you could rewire the switch leg to be hot and neutral to power a typical smart switch that controls the smart relay wirelessly. Obvious downside is control is wholly dependent on smart/wireless/automation.

[outbackrob]

So I went with the switchbot. It is SO FRIGGIN SIMPLE! It is not pretty, but this is a warehouse so I don't care. These things are pretty strong so I can see LOTS of ways to use them. THANK YOU to all who responded! This one is in the books!

[Michael McSharry]

The latest version of mcsMQTT (6.3.1.0) now supports Switchbot so if you are looking for easy HS control/status you can use it. It is a cloud-based integration. Discussion at https://forums.homeseer.com/forum/ho...rk-great/page5

[outbackrob]

So SwitchBots are very simple to set up and use, but they are not rugged. The first one stopped working in May. Thought it was the battery. Replaced the $15 battery but the Bot still didn't work. Bought a replacement and it lasted only 24 days. I THINK the problem is heat. While these are inside, they are in a small unairconditioned hallway with a big West facing glass wall. With outside temps over 100 every day, that hallway gets up to 110-115. Pretty sure these Bots cannot handle that kind of temperature.... So I am back to square 1.....