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    My flooded basement leads to better energy efficiency

    Hurricane Matthew flooded my small basement. I live in a rather old (pre-1900ish) home with what looks like an old root cellar that was converted into a basement, probably in the 70s or 80s when central HVAC was added to the house. It measures 11' x 30' The rest of the house is over a crawlspace. The access to the basement is via exterior stairs.

    I've lived in the home since 2010 and other family owned it since 2007. The house is on top of a fill and considerably higher that most of the terrain around it. As far as anyone in the neighborhood knows, the basement has never flooded (one 70+ year old neighbor's lived there his whole life). However, 10 inches of rain followed by 15 inches a week later will make things happen that have never had before.

    My basement filled with 21 inches of water, exactly how much water it took to start filling up the condensate pump. Miraculously, my condensate pump managed to keep what I'm sure was thousands of gallons of water from filling the basement. I used a well pump to pull the remainder out, which had to be repeated the next day when another 6 inches came in through the soil. I now have a utility pump sitting in the low spot and plan on installing a permanent sump pump with battery backup in the coming weeks. We only lost power for 16 seconds during the entire storm according to the software on my UPS.

    Unfortunately, the air handler for my HVAC, including the control board and transformer, as well as the lower thermostat for my water heater were all below 21 inches. I replaced the controller board, transformer and both water heater thermostats ($80 for the controller board, $10 for the transformer, and $8 and $14 for the lower and upper thermostats) Much cheaper than calling in guys to fix it, and probably faster since they were all busy responding to folks with much more damage than me.

    Anyway, to my point. I have an energy monitor. Prior to replacing these parts, my house idled around 2000 watts - that was just normal stuff running, standby power on TVs, TiVos, PCs, Networking equipment, fridge, freezer, etc. when I knew the HVAC and water heater were not active (checked muliple times when away from home over the previous year) Now, after replacing these components, my house idles around 1300 watts. I wonder which was the culprit. If this continues to hold true, at $0.095 that should net me close to $50 a month in savings.

    This intrigued me, however, the only similar things I've found through online searches were cases where a mis-wired HVAC thermostat caused emergency heat to engage whenever the AC kicked in. As best as I can tell - looking at my system's specs and peering into its guts, my system (a Goodman Gas furnace with AC) does not have emergency heat, and I wired it back EXACTLY the same way it was before. I don't think it was the hot water heater as it seems I would have had steam coming out of my pipes it was constantly drawing power. Maybe the transformer was bad.. but it seems like that 700 watts would have had to be going somewhere in the form of heat if that was the case.

    My final theory is that my energy monitor is going bad and not reporting accurately anymore. I'll figure that out when the next power bill comes, though I may be able to check the meter since they swapped out our old analog one for a digital once a couple of months ago.

    Anyone else ever experienced something like this?
    John
    Hardware: i5-6400T w/16GB RAM & SSD w/HS3Pro, Z-Net, Harmony Hub x2, Echo Dot x2, Ocelot
    Plugins: Z-wave, HSTouch, BLBackup, Harmony, GTS CPUXA, UltraMon3, Nest
    HSTouch: Multiple Android Devices; 5 x ToteVision MD-1001 10.1" Win 7 Tablets
    Devices: Cooper RF9501 x4, RF9517 x6, RF9534 x1, RF9540-N x7, RF9542 x1, RF9542-Z x2, RFHDSCG x1, RFWC5 x5; Intermatic HA02 x6; FortrezZ MIMOLite x3; Leviton VRPD3-1LW x4, VRR15-1LZ x6; Nest Tstat & 9x Protects; Dragon PD-100 x3, PA-100 x3

    #2
    Does your power company have a web interface application you can log in to check the numbers?

    I have a somewhat interesting power issue myself with a RR501 X-10 controller in my pool shed which I use to kick off my ELK-9200 to power my pool pump and chlorinator. With a kilo-watt meter, it measures 2 watts usage when plugged in. However, with my Aeon Labs Multilevel sensor in the main panel, it measures like 6 watts when plugged in. a 300% difference???

    Robert
    HS3PRO 3.0.0.500 as a Fire Daemon service, Windows 2016 Server Std Intel Core i5 PC HTPC Slim SFF 4GB, 120GB SSD drive, WLG800, RFXCom, TI103,NetCam, UltraNetcam3, BLBackup, CurrentCost 3P Rain8Net, MCsSprinker, HSTouch, Ademco Security plugin/AD2USB, JowiHue, various Oregon Scientific temp/humidity sensors, Z-Net, Zsmoke, Aeron Labs micro switches, Amazon Echo Dots, WS+, WD+ ... on and on.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by langenet View Post
      Does your power company have a web interface application you can log in to check the numbers?
      They do not have real-time monitoring, we're in a location with the same energy rate 24/7, so - according to the tech that installed the new meter - it gets read once a month when a meter reader drivers by. It does, however, have a scrolling display and among the items displayed is current usage rate, so I should be able to compare what it's showing with what HS and the Aeon labs monitor is showing. In the past, my Aeon labs monitor has under-reported usage by 5-10% compared to the electric company.
      Last edited by jrfuda; October 17, 2016, 01:52 PM. Reason: typos
      John
      Hardware: i5-6400T w/16GB RAM & SSD w/HS3Pro, Z-Net, Harmony Hub x2, Echo Dot x2, Ocelot
      Plugins: Z-wave, HSTouch, BLBackup, Harmony, GTS CPUXA, UltraMon3, Nest
      HSTouch: Multiple Android Devices; 5 x ToteVision MD-1001 10.1" Win 7 Tablets
      Devices: Cooper RF9501 x4, RF9517 x6, RF9534 x1, RF9540-N x7, RF9542 x1, RF9542-Z x2, RFHDSCG x1, RFWC5 x5; Intermatic HA02 x6; FortrezZ MIMOLite x3; Leviton VRPD3-1LW x4, VRR15-1LZ x6; Nest Tstat & 9x Protects; Dragon PD-100 x3, PA-100 x3

      Comment


        #4
        You're lucky your not on TOU... I wonder in my situation if line loss is playing a part into my problem. The power line into my pony panel in my shed is probably 75 feet long - and I'm reading from the main panel....
        I have a few other devices in my shed including a powerflash module, a EOP adapter, camera, small switch, and an IP2SL device each measuring about 2 watts or less but in total the Aeon is measuring 30 watts in total - about the same as running another server...

        Robert
        HS3PRO 3.0.0.500 as a Fire Daemon service, Windows 2016 Server Std Intel Core i5 PC HTPC Slim SFF 4GB, 120GB SSD drive, WLG800, RFXCom, TI103,NetCam, UltraNetcam3, BLBackup, CurrentCost 3P Rain8Net, MCsSprinker, HSTouch, Ademco Security plugin/AD2USB, JowiHue, various Oregon Scientific temp/humidity sensors, Z-Net, Zsmoke, Aeron Labs micro switches, Amazon Echo Dots, WS+, WD+ ... on and on.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by jrfuda View Post
          I replaced the controller board, transformer and both water heater thermostats . . .Prior to replacing these parts, my house idled around 2000 watts - that was just normal stuff running, standby power on TVs, TiVos, PCs, Networking equipment, fridge, freezer, etc. when I knew the HVAC and water heater were not active (checked muliple times when away from home over the previous year) Now, after replacing these components, my house idles around 1300 watts. I wonder which was the culprit.
          I'm wondering if your furnace fan is running less with the new controller board. Unless you have a high efficiency unit, the fan can consume 500+ watts easily.
          Mike____________________________________________________________ __________________
          HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.548, NUC i3

          HW: Stargate | NX8e | CAV6.6 | Squeezebox | PCS | WGL 800RF | RFXCOM | Vantage Pro | Green-Eye | Edgeport/8 | Way2Call | Ecobee3 | EtherRain | Ubiquiti

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Uncle Michael View Post
            I'm wondering if your furnace fan is running less with the new controller board. Unless you have a high efficiency unit, the fan can consume 500+ watts easily.
            The "idle" power consumption I was referring to was with the HVAC not running, however, you are correct that my fan does consume about 500 watts when it is spinning as tested with manually turning the fan on.

            I looked at my meter when I got home last night, and it does not display the current consumption rate, just the running total like an old analog model.
            John
            Hardware: i5-6400T w/16GB RAM & SSD w/HS3Pro, Z-Net, Harmony Hub x2, Echo Dot x2, Ocelot
            Plugins: Z-wave, HSTouch, BLBackup, Harmony, GTS CPUXA, UltraMon3, Nest
            HSTouch: Multiple Android Devices; 5 x ToteVision MD-1001 10.1" Win 7 Tablets
            Devices: Cooper RF9501 x4, RF9517 x6, RF9534 x1, RF9540-N x7, RF9542 x1, RF9542-Z x2, RFHDSCG x1, RFWC5 x5; Intermatic HA02 x6; FortrezZ MIMOLite x3; Leviton VRPD3-1LW x4, VRR15-1LZ x6; Nest Tstat & 9x Protects; Dragon PD-100 x3, PA-100 x3

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by jrfuda View Post
              The "idle" power consumption I was referring to was with the HVAC not running, however, you are correct that my fan does consume about 500 watts when it is spinning as tested with manually turning the fan on.

              I looked at my meter when I got home last night, and it does not display the current consumption rate, just the running total like an old analog model.
              Sure the bottom element of the water heater is running now? Or perhaps when you replaced the control for it you set it lower or it wasn't working previously? Since the bottom element only turns on when the top is heated, you don't always notice that it's stuck on.

              Z

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by vasrc View Post
                Sure the bottom element of the water heater is running now? Or perhaps when you replaced the control for it you set it lower or it wasn't working previously? Since the bottom element only turns on when the top is heated, you don't always notice that it's stuck on.
                I checked all that when I changed out the thermostats... Turn the top stat to 90 and the bottom to 150 to force it to come one, then reset both to 125 or whatever you prefer once you confirm both get power.
                John
                Hardware: i5-6400T w/16GB RAM & SSD w/HS3Pro, Z-Net, Harmony Hub x2, Echo Dot x2, Ocelot
                Plugins: Z-wave, HSTouch, BLBackup, Harmony, GTS CPUXA, UltraMon3, Nest
                HSTouch: Multiple Android Devices; 5 x ToteVision MD-1001 10.1" Win 7 Tablets
                Devices: Cooper RF9501 x4, RF9517 x6, RF9534 x1, RF9540-N x7, RF9542 x1, RF9542-Z x2, RFHDSCG x1, RFWC5 x5; Intermatic HA02 x6; FortrezZ MIMOLite x3; Leviton VRPD3-1LW x4, VRR15-1LZ x6; Nest Tstat & 9x Protects; Dragon PD-100 x3, PA-100 x3

                Comment

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