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    Looking for z-wave battery powered switch

    Taking my Alexa voice control to the next step, I have a gas powered fireplace which has a small box with batteries under the firebox which can be controlled by a remote. There are two wires that come out of the box and when shorted, the fireplace ignites and stays on as long as the two wires are shorted(closed).
    Can someone recommend a battery powered z-wave switch which I could use instead and control via HS/Alexa?

    Robert
    HS3PRO 3.0.0.500 as a Fire Daemon service, Windows 2016 Server Std Intel Core i5 PC HTPC Slim SFF 4GB, 120GB SSD drive, WLG800, RFXCom, TI103,NetCam, UltraNetcam3, BLBackup, CurrentCost 3P Rain8Net, MCsSprinker, HSTouch, Ademco Security plugin/AD2USB, JowiHue, various Oregon Scientific temp/humidity sensors, Z-Net, Zsmoke, Aeron Labs micro switches, Amazon Echo Dots, WS+, WD+ ... on and on.

    #2
    Do you have 110v below the fire box?

    Michael
    Michael

    Comment


      #3
      Robert
      A Mimo lite or IP2CC would work but it sounds like your too far away from an outlet. ..
      Blair

      HomeSeer: HS3 Pro | Blue-Iris 4 on Windows10Pro
      | Devices: 832 | Events: 211 |
      Plug-Ins: Z-Wave | RFXCOM | UltraRachio3 | Sonos
      BLLAN | BLLOCK | NetCAM | Global Cache Pro | Blue-Iris4

      Comment


        #4
        Don't think there is a battery powered switch like that. Is the remote IR based?
        HS 3.0.0.548: 1990 Devices 1172 Events
        Z-Wave 3.0.1.262: 126 Nodes on one Z-Net

        Comment


          #5
          I picked up one of these several months ago, but never got around to trying anythng with it. Runs on 12VDC. Maybe usable to drive a relay...?

          http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...seq=1&format=2

          Comment


            #6
            for that I imagine you will need an always listening node, I doubt you will find that in any battery powered z-wave device, none that I have seen. There may be some battery powered zigbee devices that could do that, will do some research.

            I came across this:
            http://www.abacom-tech.com/90%C2%B5A...PS-P93378.aspx

            looks like to be same frequency as RFXCOM, you may be able to use the RFXCOM plugin with appropriate transmitter to control the above device. Worth giving them a call to check.

            good luck.
            Last edited by Amigo; January 5, 2017, 12:49 AM.

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks guys for your suggestions. Unfortunately, I don't have AC power under the firebox. I'll need to look further to see if I can bring it up. I'm sure there might be electrical code issues...
              Perhaps I can bring up contact closure wires and wire in something in the basement.
              Unfortunately, I don't have an 433 transmitter. The current remote transmits to what looks like X-10 with the unit code / house code, but I don't know for sure. I do have an X-10 remote, but it doesn't work with it.

              edit: I just remembered that I had an X-10 universal module. I may just try that and see if I can run the contact closure wires up from the basement... No electrical... no code issues.

              The downside however, is it doesn't report status - which would be a good safety benefit...

              Robert
              Last edited by langenet; January 5, 2017, 08:56 AM.
              HS3PRO 3.0.0.500 as a Fire Daemon service, Windows 2016 Server Std Intel Core i5 PC HTPC Slim SFF 4GB, 120GB SSD drive, WLG800, RFXCom, TI103,NetCam, UltraNetcam3, BLBackup, CurrentCost 3P Rain8Net, MCsSprinker, HSTouch, Ademco Security plugin/AD2USB, JowiHue, various Oregon Scientific temp/humidity sensors, Z-Net, Zsmoke, Aeron Labs micro switches, Amazon Echo Dots, WS+, WD+ ... on and on.

              Comment


                #8
                Ok, sorry I saw RFXCom in your signature and assumed that you have the 433 transmitter, seems like that is not the case.

                your best bet would to bring up the contact wires from some where that you have power.

                good luck.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks again!

                  If I need to do this, is there a Z-wave module (switch) with contact closure that supports status that I can use?

                  Robert
                  HS3PRO 3.0.0.500 as a Fire Daemon service, Windows 2016 Server Std Intel Core i5 PC HTPC Slim SFF 4GB, 120GB SSD drive, WLG800, RFXCom, TI103,NetCam, UltraNetcam3, BLBackup, CurrentCost 3P Rain8Net, MCsSprinker, HSTouch, Ademco Security plugin/AD2USB, JowiHue, various Oregon Scientific temp/humidity sensors, Z-Net, Zsmoke, Aeron Labs micro switches, Amazon Echo Dots, WS+, WD+ ... on and on.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I have personally used this:
                    https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-W...words=mimolite

                    And there are also these which I have not used:
                    https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Z-Wa...words=mimolite
                    https://www.remotec.com.hk/bw8041-product-page/
                    http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=11992

                    They all require some sort of power.

                    good luck.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Great suggestions! Thanks again!
                      HS3PRO 3.0.0.500 as a Fire Daemon service, Windows 2016 Server Std Intel Core i5 PC HTPC Slim SFF 4GB, 120GB SSD drive, WLG800, RFXCom, TI103,NetCam, UltraNetcam3, BLBackup, CurrentCost 3P Rain8Net, MCsSprinker, HSTouch, Ademco Security plugin/AD2USB, JowiHue, various Oregon Scientific temp/humidity sensors, Z-Net, Zsmoke, Aeron Labs micro switches, Amazon Echo Dots, WS+, WD+ ... on and on.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I have been controlling my gas fireplace for 7 years. Started with an x10 appliance module, now using a Z-wave appliance module. Connected to the module is a 120 volt relay (https://www.amazon.com/NTE-Electroni...v+relay+switch). Use thermostat wire to extend the wires from the fireplace to the relay. Connect the wires to the common and NO (normally open) terminals. When 120 VAC power is applied to the relay, it will close the connection (just like a thermostat).

                        You will need an outlet to power the z-wave module/relay but the thermostat wire can be whatever length you need.

                        Steve Q


                        Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
                        HomeSeer Version: HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.368, Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 - Home, Number of Devices: 373, Number of Events: 666, Enabled Plug-Ins
                        2.0.83.0: BLRF, 2.0.10.0: BLUSBUIRT, 3.0.0.75: HSTouch Server, 3.0.0.58: mcsXap, 3.0.0.11: NetCAM, 3.0.0.36: X10, 3.0.1.25: Z-Wave,Alexa,HomeKit

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Steve,

                          That's really neat! I had wanted to do something like that for my unit, but never got around to it.

                          --Dan
                          Tasker, to a person who does Homeautomation...is like walking up to a Crack Treatment facility with a truck full of 3lb bags of crack. Then for each person that walks in and out smack them in the face with an open bag.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Steve Q View Post
                            I have been controlling my gas fireplace for 7 years. Started with an x10 appliance module, now using a Z-wave appliance module. Connected to the module is a 120 volt relay (https://www.amazon.com/NTE-Electroni...v+relay+switch). Use thermostat wire to extend the wires from the fireplace to the relay. Connect the wires to the common and NO (normally open) terminals. When 120 VAC power is applied to the relay, it will close the connection (just like a thermostat).

                            You will need an outlet to power the z-wave module/relay but the thermostat wire can be whatever length you need.

                            Steve Q


                            Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
                            Thanks Steve.. I actually still have mine from my other house. I too had it connected to an x-10 appliance module and wired to a fan switch on the side of my furnace (older model) which I could use to turn on the fan with.

                            Lots of good ideas here...

                            Robert
                            HS3PRO 3.0.0.500 as a Fire Daemon service, Windows 2016 Server Std Intel Core i5 PC HTPC Slim SFF 4GB, 120GB SSD drive, WLG800, RFXCom, TI103,NetCam, UltraNetcam3, BLBackup, CurrentCost 3P Rain8Net, MCsSprinker, HSTouch, Ademco Security plugin/AD2USB, JowiHue, various Oregon Scientific temp/humidity sensors, Z-Net, Zsmoke, Aeron Labs micro switches, Amazon Echo Dots, WS+, WD+ ... on and on.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Could you get 5v to it?
                              Might be safer.

                              Then you can put a pi or esp8266 in with relays and work it easily with mqtt?

                              Comment

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