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    Looking for suggestion for Z-wave thermostat?

    I have a Z-wave system and want to replace my old thermostat. I want programmability and compatibility with HomeSeer3, but I don't need Alexa integration or anything similar. Do people have recommendations for a model that is easy to install and that works reliably with HomeSeer? Btw mine is a heat-only controller (not heat and AC), currently using one of those ancient Honeywell round ones with the mercury switch inside.

    #2
    I use the GoControl GC-TBZ48 - five of them. I didn't have a c-wire for power in one of the locations, so needed to try a battery powered device. I liked it so much I upgraded the other units to it as well. Four AA batteries last about two years - you can run it on two AA and get about a year from them. Really simple unit that works well with Homeseer.

    It's possible that with your old Honeywell thermostat you too lack a c-wire. If you do have power at the thermostat, these units will work with it too, avoiding battery power.

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      #3
      Battery powered t-stats are convenient, but I highly recommend using a system powered t-sat. Batteries have a tendency to die at the most inconvenient time. Since you have a heat only system you might only have 2 wires from the t-stat to your system --most likely red and white-- so you might have to use a battery powered unit. If at all possible running the extra wire would be the safest idea.

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        #4
        Thanks! How is the programming of the GoControl GC-TBZ48 - how in HS3 do you program a specific schedule for example? And, what happens if the HS3 server or wifi network dies - does the thermostat setting stay at whatever temp it was last left in? And, does it allow battery level monitoring via HS3 so that I can have a rule that warns me when battery is low (like for some of my other devices)?

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          #5
          Originally posted by drhtmal View Post
          Battery powered t-stats are convenient, but I highly recommend using a system powered t-sat. Batteries have a tendency to die at the most inconvenient time. Since you have a heat only system you might only have 2 wires from the t-stat to your system --most likely red and white-- so you might have to use a battery powered unit. If at all possible running the extra wire would be the safest idea.
          interesting point. If the batteries do die, what happens? My current thermostat has no batteries at all, so if there's no C wire (I haven't taken it off the wall to check yet but I bet there isn't), what does it do and what will the newer kind do if the batteries die?

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            #6
            Originally posted by mlevin77 View Post
            Thanks! How is the programming of the GoControl GC-TBZ48 - how in HS3 do you program a specific schedule for example? And, what happens if the HS3 server or wifi network dies - does the thermostat setting stay at whatever temp it was last left in? And, does it allow battery level monitoring via HS3 so that I can have a rule that warns me when battery is low (like for some of my other devices)?
            First let me address the battery paranoia. I wouldn't let it bother you. Two years is a long time. And the battery status is reported through HS every day. Set up an event in HS to alert you when the battery gets below your comfort level and change them. Mine will alert me when the battery reports < 30%. I've had the unit for three years and changed the batteries once.

            The device is not dependent on HS3 to continue working - it will remain set where it is.

            Moving on - the thermostat exposes all of the controls in HS properly - mode (cool/heat/auto), fan modes, and multiple setpoints (heating, cooling). The thermostat is not programmable by itself - you can change all the settings directly on the unit, but it will stay where you last set it unless HS changes it.

            In HS, you program events to control your thermostat like you would any other event. Something triggers it (presence of people, time of day, etc.) and you set the thermostat controls to your liking. I have a lot of events managing environmental conditions, mostly for HVAC. See below.

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            Attached Files

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              #7
              For those who lack a c-wire you can use add-a-wire. Here is a video. The thermostat then has battery backup and the batteries last about 4 years.

              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3pea5qtygo

              It works very well.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by HSAccord View Post

                First let me address the battery paranoia. I wouldn't let it bother you. Two years is a long time. And the battery status is reported through HS every day. Set up an event in HS to alert you when the battery gets below your comfort level and change them. Mine will alert me when the battery reports < 30%. I've had the unit for three years and changed the batteries once. <snip>
                Agreed.

                I prefer that critical systems such as HVAC have as little reliance on things like battery only powered t-stats as possible.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by AllHailJ View Post
                  For those who lack a c-wire you can use add-a-wire. Here is a video. The thermostat then has battery backup and the batteries last about 4 years.

                  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3pea5qtygo

                  It works very well.
                  I sure am glad that about half way through the video at about 2:15 the pretty spokes model in the skimpy top and extra short skirt made it a point to note that the hands doing the install were not hers.


                  I have seen these types of devices before but have never used one. Something like this was included with my Ecobee but I did not need to use it since I had enough wire.

                  In reading the install manual for add-a-wire it appears that you need at least 4 wires to make the add-a-wire work. It specifically states in the one of the docs (https://files.venstar.com/accessorie...0submittal.pdf) that add-a-wire "Cannot be used as “R” power or “C” common wire" so this would prohibit using it in a system with only 2 or 3 wires.I have not found anywhere on their web site where it specifically states that you need a minimum of 4 wires to make this work. I suspect they don't specifically mention this because companies seldom mention negative things about the products in advertisement.

                  I did find a review at https://www.smarthome.com/venstar-ac...ml?p=3#reviews where a uses states that he could not use it to add a 3rd wire to a 2 wire system.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Apologizes for taking this thread off track, Back the the original posters question.

                    As you can see the t-stat you select will have to work within the limits of your existing system.

                    If you have only 2 wires and can't run more wire you will need something battery powered. As mentioned the GoControl GC-TBZ48 is an option. HomeSeer sells the GoControl GC-TBZ48 so you know it will be compatible with your system. It is also battery powered. Forum members use it so you will have support from the community. There are probably other battery powered t-stats that forum members can recommend.

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                      #11
                      I had no idea something like this existed. It allows you to use 2 wires to add a common wire. Ecobee recommends it as a possible solution if you don't have enough wire.

                      https://www.fast-stat.com/

                      https://www.fast-stat.com/wp-content...g-Diagrams.pdf

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                        #12
                        I have two of the Go Controls GC-TBZ48 on gas fireplaces that have three wires (3rd is ground to keep old switch and gas control at same potential). I changed to allow control from HSTouch.

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                          #13
                          So I've got the GoControl and connected it to the Z-wave system, but something is wrong. Please take a look at the attached screenshots of the import and the device status - there were 2 errors during the import, and I'm not seeing the temperature reported at all. What can I do to fix it, and is there a manual on-line somewhere that explains the different parameters and what they do? Screen Shot 2020-03-20 at 8.18.56 PM.pdf Screen Shot 2020-03-20 at 8.19.03 PM.pdf

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