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Controlling LED Tape Lights with Homeseer

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  • ecetron
    replied
    Just a quick pop-in to give an update on my recent foray into this arena. I found after an exhaustive search, this product on amazon:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    The nice thing about this vendor is that he will customize it with various lengths and connectors. So I sent a picture of '20 ft of led, 2 ft of connector, 20 ft of LED....' and they were custom assembled for me:

    Click image for larger version

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ID:	1573341And all of the connections are solid waterproof barrel 5 pin connectors so no soldering or hard to make corners.

    Then came the controller issue. The vendor was able to supply on request a WiFi based Tuya compatible controller that supported RGBW. Works with the Tuya plug in just fine. Some limitations on Scene / Mode setup but the small remote worked just fine so you could set up (and edit - very important) the animated scenes and then invoke them from HS4. If the cloud based Tuya interface is down, the small controller or the Smartphone Smart Life application will still work locally.

    I also tried the Zooz RGBW interface. Very nice device. Unlike the supplied controller, it allows full control of RGB AND W simultaneously ... but the ability to animate scenes is not there. If you are doing mood lighting for say a home theater, it is perfect. But for outside display this is a show-stopper. I am using these and want to be able to present a holiday display -- white/orange for Halloween, red/green for Xmas, red/white/blue for July 4th etc. Easy to do with the Smartphone app and then trigger by HS4. Impossible without serious Z-wave traffic on the Zooz to have the animation by HS4 events.

    Hope this helps folks -- glad to discuss further -- and gladly take further suggestions too...

    -ed


    Leave a comment:


  • Pop Alexandra
    replied
    Originally posted by gelessor View Post
    I found 5 on Walmart’s site. Sorry, but I believe that was the last 5 they had.
    I also found some at https://ndrelectric.com/category/tape-light. Check them out if you're still interested.

    Leave a comment:


  • gelessor
    replied
    I found 5 on Walmart’s site. Sorry, but I believe that was the last 5 they had.

    Leave a comment:


  • Eman
    replied
    Originally posted by Krumpy View Post
    Where did you find any to purchase? Seems like they are out of stock most places...
    I think .pl is Poland : https://botland.com.pl/en/964-shelly-home-automation




    Eman.

    Leave a comment:


  • Krumpy
    replied
    Where did you find any to purchase? Seems like they are out of stock most places...

    Leave a comment:


  • gelessor
    replied
    Thanks to all for the insight and input. There are so many options and products available and it was difficult to make a choice. I finally decided and ordered 5 Shelly RBGW controllers.

    Leave a comment:


  • jmaddox
    replied
    Originally posted by Michael McSharry View Post
    Don’t you consider the Zwave plugin something special? It is probably the best Zwave software interface available. When you consider the multiple RGB controllers that will be needed you will be paying a pretty premium for Zwave royalties. mcsShelly or mcsMQTT come at no cost and in the mcsMQTT case it opens up another world of commonly available devices.
    No I don't consider the zwave plugin special, it's included with Homeseer. Yeah you're gonna need a zwave interface, but I'm willing to bet that more than half of HS users already have one. Don't get me wrong, I have 13 plugins installed I'm certainly not allergic to them, but I'm also a fan of KISS; Keep It Simple Stupid. You can use what you already have installed and expand on it, or you can add a completely new protocol. If you don't use any zwave devices then yeah you probably want to consider a device that communicates with what what you already use; if you fall into that category then zwave might seem special to you.

    Leave a comment:


  • Michael McSharry
    replied
    The last one I ordered was https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They are waterproof which you apparently don't need, but worked well for me. Waterproof means they are slid into a plastic channel. This is nice to protect the LEDs and the strip components from mechanical as well as water damage. The downside is that they do not have adhesive and bends are not as easy. These came with the connector pigtail so wiring into the Shelly requires no additional adapter hardware. There are wires ready to screw into the Shelly.

    If you need to make 90 degree bends you have three choices. Cut the plastic channel and LED strip and buy a corner connector to attach the cut strip at the point of cut. Note the cut needs to be at the designated copper pads. Second is to cut and solder short wires where you cut to maintain the electrical continuity of the five wires. I prefer the more positive solder than the pressure contact corner, but you need soldering skills. If you do not need a tight bend for 90 degrees and you have an inch or so behind the strip then make a 270 degree bend and do not cut the strip. This is what I do. No need to fuss with cutting and the integrity of the strip is maintained. You can also do a 90 degree bend but it typically puts greater stress on the mount adhesive.

    The ones I ordered before this one were more than a year ago so good chance no longer available and they also included the magichome controller and power supply.

    I suspect something like https://www.amazon.com/Alarmpore-16-...dDbGljaz10cnVl would work just as well. They are similar to your link of not being waterproof, but have the 30 pixel/density for RGB. The black vs. white background makes no difference.

    Leave a comment:


  • usLEDsupply
    replied
    At least with our strips the output from the 24v is the same as the 12v it just allows longer runs (double the distance) between feed wires and allows twice the length on a controller so is used in commercial applications more often.
    For shorter runs (under 32ft for standard output or 16ft for high output) the 12v is fine.

    We use a bunch of the MagicHome controllers with home seer and have pretty good results (the early ones were troublesome to get connected to WiFi but haven't had any issues in the past year or two other than one failing but they are cheap and easy to replace

    Leave a comment:


  • gelessor
    replied
    Is there a brand of lights that you have had good looking with? don’t want to re-invent the wheel. I want to stay with what works.

    Leave a comment:


  • Michael McSharry
    replied
    This looks like a reasonable choice for your needs. If you are only going to 25% then you have an engineering margin of a factor of 4. Ie. you could use a smaller power supply and should only need 2 controllers, but you may find 25% is not bright enough so a setup that handles the 100% case and have peace of mind.

    I did notice that the reviews for the LED tape is poor quality. I think you will find no matter which brand you buy that additional adhesive or mechanical mounts will be needed.

    The HS interface looks like a color picker for RGB, slider for white level, and slider for overall gain/brightness. The light strip looks to interleaved RGB and white LEDs. This means you have three devices that you will coordinate to get your desired effect. I have never worked with this combination but I think you will either use the controller in RGB mode and use color picker device with brightness device or use white channel device and the gain/brightness device. If you are going to control color then you likely will not need the white channel and a LED that does not have dedicated white LEDs will provide greater illumination range. Having white channel does provide flexibility. You could try one LED strip and if it provides the desired result then order 4 more. You could also order a RGB only strip for comparison since these are not that expensive.

    in the Hubitat plugin I provide a rate device that can be set to the number of seconds you want the output to be ramped across the full scale. White Shelly does not provide this parameter I can add it to the plugin if it helps you.

    Leave a comment:


  • gelessor
    replied
    Ok.

    thinking about this... will this work and do I need anything else?

    HS4 with your plugins

    Power Supply..
    GALYGG 12V DC Switching Power Supply 33.3A 400W, Universal Regulated Transformer AC 110V-220V to DC 12V, for LED Strip Lights, 3D Printer, Electronic Equipment, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XR3ZLSG..._0xcBEbBY00PG4

    Controllers...
    Five of these - Shelly RGBW2s

    Connectors,,,
    5 Pin RGBW Led Connector Extension Wire with 5 Pin Conenctor, SIM&NAT 15 cm / 5.9 inch RGBW RGBWW Connector Plug Weld Line Male Female Plug Cable for SMD 5050 Led Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8QCZQL..._OlcBEbWET2ZJM

    LED Strips...
    5 of these - SUPERNIGHT LED Strip Light, 5050 16.4ft RGBW Non-Waterproof LED Flexible Lighting, 12V 300LEDs, 5M Multi-Colored LED Tape Lights - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQHQJ5C..._xvcBEbQ9MGCDN


    Will the above allow me to operate the 5 zones independently and allow me to create events that ramp up to the color of my choice (including white) from zero to a 25% brightness?

    thoughts?

    Leave a comment:


  • Michael McSharry
    replied
    We can talk. I can try a call later today or tomorrow.

    The most common low price LED strips are RGB (no white channel) type 5050 with 300 LEDs per 16 ft strip. Full intensity white will be 20 milliamps * 300 = 6 Amps. If you are dimming or modulating the power needs will be lower. Pretty common to see these kits come with 5 Amp power supply per strip.

    The 300 LEDs are actually three channels of 100 so each channel has a maximum of 2 Amps. This means that you could drive two strips with one controller unless you expect steady state near full brightness. A conservative engineering design would be one controller per strip. If you used 24V LED strips then your needs for both power and controller count would be cut in half. You indicated you have six strips so I assume you already have made that selection.

    A common controller that comes in the kits is MagicHome such as shown below. In this case there are female pins on the right edge of the image and the male pins at the end of the LED strip are inserted. The barrel connector is for power. The Shelly has screw terminals so if you go this route then you may need to do some adapter wiring. Just depends upon the flexibility you have a the end of the LED strip. I mention the MagicHome controller or whatever comes in your kit as a viable piece of hardware if you are willing to flash the units then your controllers come at no additional cost. I have done three or four of the Magichome ones. One needs to tack solder four wires to do the upload of the firmware that will run local on your WiFi network. If you use the Shelly RGBW2 then you have the $25 cost per controller but they come out of the box ready to run on your local WiFi network.

    Click image for larger version

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    Back to the power needs...
    Your total power needs for 12V strips will be 6 * 6 Amps = 36 Amps. Something like https://www.amazon.com/GALYGG-Switch...0&s=hi&sr=1-10 from Amazon for $30 could be used if you want a single power supply to drive all strips. You could also use the power supplies that came in the kit so you would likely have 6 of these at at 5 Amps each. Power strip(s) likely needed to plug in the six power supplies.

    You need to consider how the power supply will be connected to the controller. The Shelly expects bare wires. The Magichome expects barrel connector. Of course if you use both the power supply and controller from the LED kit then no additional wiring needed.

    As far as brands and sources I do not consider myself an expert. For my LED matrices I obtained them from two different AliExpress suppliers. For my LED strips I just picked them up on Lightning deals from Amazon.. In the past I have seen YouTube video that did some comparison but I do not have any specific references. From my perspective the 5050 strips are a commodity item with the water immunity IP rating being the only consideration from which model is purchased.

    Looking at total cost it could be as low as $15*6=$100 or ($15+$25)*6+$30=$300 depending upon approach for the 12V strips.

    I have no hands on experience with the 24V strips. I did a quick look at Amazon at saw https://www.amazon.com/WenTop-Flexib...7&s=hi&sr=1-11 for $60. It seems that this strip has 50% the LED density and it looks as if one controller can support up to 3 10 meter strips. I have not looked inside that controller to know if a firmware change is possible. My view on the 24V strips is that the power supply amperage and controller count is reduced, but more research is needed to assess illumination comparison.

    Leave a comment:


  • gelessor
    replied
    Michael

    Thanks again for your help on this! Would you be open to a brief phone call to answer couple questions I have? I think your route makes the most sense for my application. I could use some guidance on power supplies, 12/24 volts, and sources/brands for the light strips.

    Thanks,

    Bill Lott
    ​​​​​​​(502) 905-5688

    Leave a comment:


  • Michael McSharry
    replied
    Don’t you consider the Zwave plugin something special? It is probably the best Zwave software interface available. When you consider the multiple RGB controllers that will be needed you will be paying a pretty premium for Zwave royalties. mcsShelly or mcsMQTT come at no cost and in the mcsMQTT case it opens up another world of commonly available devices.

    Leave a comment:

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