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FGBS-222 Smart implant for doorbell settings for momentary switch

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  • #16
    Originally posted by nl_user View Post
    Thanks. I will first buy one of these relays. If I have it (hopefully after the weekend) I will try to build this setup and see how that works out. Seems promising though. Learned a lot today. Would this one be a better choice? : https://www.allekabels.nl/relais/737...iABEgJXBvD_BwE ?
    That is a DPDT but the coil voltage (spoelspanning) is 240VAC. You need one with a coil voltage of 12VDC so it will work with your button and power supply.

    Here are some examples:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/JQX-12F-Gen...s%2C260&sr=8-7

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/ELECTRONICS...s%2C260&sr=8-8

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap...s%2C260&sr=8-9

    I don't speak Dutch so I linked to a UK site. I hope this is helpful.

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    • #17
      I now have the Relay from your second link laying around. Will try to build the setup from your scheme. Want to put it as much as possible into a box. So have to figure out where to put all wires and make some easy connections for the external wires (from button and bell). Still a bit of a puzzle for me but I will figure out. Just connect the two wires coming from the outdoors push-button to the button of your scheme I suppose?

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      • #18
        I have some off the parts figured out using your drawing. I connected it all but it did not work yet. But that might be caused by not getting the wires connected very well (getting some connectors and a shrink-tool tomorrow). I made some notes on the scheme. Are these right?
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        • #19
          That looks right.

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          • #20
            I don't believe this will work as the relay board you are using has a supply and a logic trigger input. You need to supply "VCC" with 12V at all times and then what you have marked as "VCC" should go into the "input" of the board from the switch. You might also have to put a ground link in to feed both the grounds as they can be separated.

            Click image for larger version

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            Zwave = Z-Stick, 3xHSM100� 7xACT ZDM230, 1xEverspring SM103, 2xACT HomePro ZRP210.
            X10 = CM12U, 2xAM12, 1xAW10, 1 x TM13U, 1xMS13, 2xHR10, 2xSS13
            Other Hardware = ADI Ocelot + secu16, Global Cache GC100, RFXtrx433, 3 x Foscams.
            Plugings = RFXcom, ActiveBackup, Applied Digital Ocelot, BLDeviceMatrix, BLGarbage, BLLAN, Current Cost, Global Cache GC100,HSTouch Android, HSTouch Server, HSTouch Server Unlimited, NetCAM, PowerTrigger, SageWebcamXP, SqueezeBox, X10 CM11A/CM12U.
            Scripts =
            Various

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            • #21
              So I do not use the vcc but the input from the push button than?

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              • #22
                Originally posted by nl_user View Post
                So I do not use the vcc but the input from the push button than?
                Correct I believe the Input is the trigger for the relay and the VCC is the 12 input to power the relay.

                I hope Alex_W does not mind me helping and using his diagram!

                This might help.

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                Zwave = Z-Stick, 3xHSM100� 7xACT ZDM230, 1xEverspring SM103, 2xACT HomePro ZRP210.
                X10 = CM12U, 2xAM12, 1xAW10, 1 x TM13U, 1xMS13, 2xHR10, 2xSS13
                Other Hardware = ADI Ocelot + secu16, Global Cache GC100, RFXtrx433, 3 x Foscams.
                Plugings = RFXcom, ActiveBackup, Applied Digital Ocelot, BLDeviceMatrix, BLGarbage, BLLAN, Current Cost, Global Cache GC100,HSTouch Android, HSTouch Server, HSTouch Server Unlimited, NetCAM, PowerTrigger, SageWebcamXP, SqueezeBox, X10 CM11A/CM12U.
                Scripts =
                Various

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by enigmatheatre View Post

                  Correct I believe the Input is the trigger for the relay and the VCC is the 12 input to power the relay.

                  I hope Alex_W does not mind me helping and using his diagram!

                  This might help.

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                  Right you are. My eyes just aren't what they used to be. This relay board requires constant power at VCC. Power ground and input ground can be "jumpered" and connected to power supply negative. The button will connect to power supply positive and control input.

                  To sum it up:

                  The POSITIVE 12VDC wire from the power supply connects to the VCC INPUT on the relay AND to the PWR INPUT on the Implant AND to one wire on the button.

                  The other wire on the button connects to the SIGNAL INPUT on the relay.

                  The NEGATIVE wire from the power supply connect to BOTH GROUND INPUTS on the relay and the GROUND INPUT on the Implant.

                  One set of NORMALLY OPEN CONTACTS connect to INPUT 1/GROUND on the Implant.

                  The other set of NORMALLY OPEN CONTACTS connect to the BELL CIRCUIT.

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                  • #24
                    Ok thanks a lot guys. I will give it a try tomorrow. Let you know how it turns out.

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                    • #25
                      Today found some time to wire it up again. And guess what? It is working now. Still with some questions left dough.

                      This is what the device looks like in Hs3: For now the only parameter which is used is the Central scene. Having that in an event works fine. So what purposes do the other parameters have? Temp reading, and what else?

                      Would be nice if I could use the switch, to switch the doorbell on or off (start it ringing if possible) or just turn it of or on.

                      Would it also possible connecting a magnetic reed switch to it? To detect if the door is opened.

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                      • #26
                        I'm glad to hear that you've got it working. I don't own a Fibaro Implant so I won't be much help with the programming. I would assume that what your asking about is possible as it seems to me that that is the sort of the the Implant was designed to do.

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