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FGBS-222 Smart implant for doorbell settings for momentary switch

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  • enigmatheatre
    replied
    Originally posted by nl_user View Post
    So I do not use the vcc but the input from the push button than?
    Correct I believe the Input is the trigger for the relay and the VCC is the 12 input to power the relay.

    I hope Alex_W does not mind me helping and using his diagram!

    This might help.

    Click image for larger version

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  • nl_user
    replied
    So I do not use the vcc but the input from the push button than?

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  • enigmatheatre
    replied
    I don't believe this will work as the relay board you are using has a supply and a logic trigger input. You need to supply "VCC" with 12V at all times and then what you have marked as "VCC" should go into the "input" of the board from the switch. You might also have to put a ground link in to feed both the grounds as they can be separated.

    Click image for larger version

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  • Alex_W
    replied
    That looks right.

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  • nl_user
    replied
    I have some off the parts figured out using your drawing. I connected it all but it did not work yet. But that might be caused by not getting the wires connected very well (getting some connectors and a shrink-tool tomorrow). I made some notes on the scheme. Are these right?
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  • nl_user
    replied
    I now have the Relay from your second link laying around. Will try to build the setup from your scheme. Want to put it as much as possible into a box. So have to figure out where to put all wires and make some easy connections for the external wires (from button and bell). Still a bit of a puzzle for me but I will figure out. Just connect the two wires coming from the outdoors push-button to the button of your scheme I suppose?

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  • Alex_W
    replied
    Originally posted by nl_user View Post
    Thanks. I will first buy one of these relays. If I have it (hopefully after the weekend) I will try to build this setup and see how that works out. Seems promising though. Learned a lot today. Would this one be a better choice? : https://www.allekabels.nl/relais/737...iABEgJXBvD_BwE ?
    That is a DPDT but the coil voltage (spoelspanning) is 240VAC. You need one with a coil voltage of 12VDC so it will work with your button and power supply.

    Here are some examples:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/JQX-12F-Gen...s%2C260&sr=8-7

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/ELECTRONICS...s%2C260&sr=8-8

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap...s%2C260&sr=8-9

    I don't speak Dutch so I linked to a UK site. I hope this is helpful.

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  • nl_user
    replied
    Thanks. I will first buy one of these relays. If I have it (hopefully after the weekend) I will try to build this setup and see how that works out. Seems promising though. Learned a lot today. Would this one be a better choice? : https://www.allekabels.nl/relais/737...iABEgJXBvD_BwE ?

    Leave a comment:


  • Alex_W
    replied
    Originally posted by nl_user View Post
    Looks good. Only thing I was wondering about in the scheme, is the Doorbell Button wiring, as I see it, if it is closed there will be a short circuit?

    Looking for a relay i found this one: https://opencircuit.nl/Product/12V-S...dule-Assembled is that the one you mention? I can only see 6 connections on it is that ok?

    I am also interested in the option you mentioned without the implant. I have laying around a fibaro doubble switch which can be used. A 12volt supply I have already in use with the existing setup.
    No short circuit. The switch is in series with the 12VDC positive wire, which is connected to one side of the relay coil. The 12VDC negative wire is connected to the other side of the relay coil. When the switch closes the coil is supplied with voltage, the relay is activated and one pole rings the bell while the other pole closes input one on the Implant.

    The outputs on the Implant are potential-free (dry-contact) so output 2 is essentially just another switch in parallel with the button. If both the button and Output 2 are open, the bell is silent. If either one closes the bell rings until they are both open again. If you don't need to have HomeSeer ring the bell there is no reason connect Output 2.

    The relay you linked to is a 12VDC SPDT (single-pole / double throw). You would need two of them. A better choice is a 12VDC DPDT (double-pole / double-throw) which is essentially two independent switches attached to a single coil. This is a DPDT relay:

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    On this relay the vertical terminals (7 & 8) at the bottom are for the coil. The lower pair of horizontal terminals (5 & 6) are the poles. The center pair of horizontal terminals (3 & 4) are normally-open contacts. The upper pair of horizontal terminals (1 & 2) are normally-closed contacts (in the circuit above these normally-closed contacts are not used).

    If no voltage is applied to the coil (when the doorbell button is not being pressed) terminal 5 is connected to terminal 1 and terminal 6 is connected to terminal 2.

    If 12VDC is applied to the coil (when the doorbell button is being pressed) terminal 5 is connected to terminal 3 (thus activating input 1 on the Implant) and terminal 6 is connected to terminal 4 (thus ringing the bell). The odd numbered terminals and the even numbered terminals are isolated from one another, so a DPDT relay acts like two independent relays activated by the same coil.

    Different relays use different terminal configurations so you'll need to follow thew wiring diagram that comes with your relay. As long as you get a 12VDC DPDT relay it will work with the parts you already have as long as it is wired correctly.

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  • nl_user
    replied
    Looks good. Only thing I was wondering about in the scheme, is the Doorbell Button wiring, as I see it, if it is closed there will be a short circuit?

    Looking for a relay i found this one: https://opencircuit.nl/Product/12V-S...dule-Assembled is that the one you mention? I can only see 6 connections on it is that ok?

    I am also interested in the option you mentioned without the implant. I have laying around a fibaro doubble switch which can be used. A 12volt supply I have already in use with the existing setup.

    Leave a comment:


  • Alex_W
    replied
    OK. If I were designing this for my use I would do it in such a way as to ensure that the doorbell would function independently of the Implant. That way if the Implant fails or is removed the doorbell still works as it should. The only additional hardware needed is an inexpensive 12VDC DPDT relay. A DPST would also work, or you could simply use a second Form C relay like the one you already have and wire the coils in parallel.

    This method isolates the manual ringing of the bell from the Implant and still allows the pushing of the doorbell button to trigger events in HomeSeer. Wiring Output 2 in parallel with the doorbell button enables you to activate the bell via the HomeSeer (provided you can activate the output independent of Input 2). You'll still need to work through the programming, but at least you'll have a functioning doorbell in the mean time, and the system no longer relies on an Implant Input to ring (or stop ringing) the bell. Of course the 12VDC supply would also power the Fibaro Implant. I left this out of the diagram so as not to muddy the waters and because it is pretty much understood.

    Depending on the level of sophistication you require from this circuit, a Fibaro Implant might be a bit of overkill. If all you want is for notifications to be sent or scenes to be run when the doorbell button is pressed a simple binary device would do the trick. You could then use the Implant for some more elegant applications. Alternatively, if you don't require HomeSeer to ring the doorbell you could eliminate the parallel wiring of Output 2 and use IN 2/OUT2 for a completely separate operation. I'm just "running this up the flagpole" since I don't know your ultimate plans for this device.
    Attached Files

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  • nl_user
    replied
    Always interested in a good workaround

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  • Alex_W
    replied
    Ah, I see.

    I don't have a solution, but from looking at the photo I may have a workaround if you are interested.

    Give me time to do some research.

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  • nl_user
    replied
    Alex_W No it is an implant. They used the sensor before in older products. Click image for larger version

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  • Alex_W
    replied
    I think I may have identified the problem. On the web page for your device it indicates that it comes with a Fibaro Binary Sensor, which is different from the Implant and has different parameter settings.

    The manual is here.

    Reset the sensor to factory defaults and try this:

    Parameter 03 controls input 1 (0 = Normally Closed / 1 = Normally Open / 2 = monostable / 3 = bistable)
    Parameter 04 controls input 2 (0 = Normally Closed / 1 = Normally Open / 2 = monostable / 3 = bistable)

    Parameter 01 controls timeout for input 1.
    Parameter 02 controls timeout for input 2.

    In both cases it looks like 0 is used for momentary contact.

    All the the scene control parameters are in the manual so you can experiment with those.

    As I said, I have no way to test this, so I'm "flying by the seat of my pants" here.

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