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~64ft RGBIC or RGBWW Tuya compatible LED strip lights???

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    ~64ft RGBIC or RGBWW Tuya compatible LED strip lights???

    Crown molding lights. I had cheap RGB's but they only ran 32 feet and started to dim a bit at 28 feet. I got 66ft of fairy lights and they were the same brightness all the way around, but they were limited color and had no WW or any way to make WW. The RBGIC patterns are cool but my real goal is to get an incandescent shade of white and still be able to do colors.

    Has anyone come across any RGBIC or RGBWW that can be run end to end for 64ft without fading and with a true Warm White? ....oh and is Tuya compatible?
    .

    #2
    With the right transformers, controllers and wiring, you can use any RGB strip/length.
    ​​​​​​
    Here's what I use (tuya/tasmota compatible)+ good article on wiring
    ​​​​​
    https://ledlightsworld.com/blogs/blo...12v-led-strips

    https://a.aliexpress.com/_dZ8GyVH (12V - 20A)

    https://a.aliexpress.com/_dWfxR0r

    ​​​https://a.aliexpress.com/_d87umxZ

    https://www.instyleled.co.uk/support...arge-projects/

    Make sure you do the maths to select the correct Power supply. De-rate 20% to prevent overheating.

    https://ledlightsworld.com/blogs/blo...12v-led-strips
    ​​​​​​
    hope this helps,

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by 123qweasd View Post
      With the right transformer and controller you can use any RGB strip/length.
      ​​​​​​<snip>
      That is not true. The longer your strip light the more current you need to send through it. The 'wires' in strip lights are rather thin and can only carry that much current. If you combine too many lights in series these wires will start to heat up and possibly not just melt your strip lights but even catch fire. You need to check the manufacturer how many strip lights you can connect in series. They probably will tell you max 2 or 3. Instead of putting them in series it's much better to put them in parallel. You will have to use additional wires to go from the PSU to the next section.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by mulu View Post

        That is not true. The longer your strip light the more current you need to send through it. The 'wires' in strip lights are rather thin and can only carry that much current. If you combine too many lights in series these wires will start to heat up and possibly not just melt your strip lights but even catch fire. You need to check the manufacturer how many strip lights you can connect in series. They probably will tell you max 2 or 3. Instead of putting them in series it's much better to put them in parallel. You will have to use additional wires to go from the PSU to the next section.

        That's exactly what the referenced article is about:

        https://ledlightsworld.com/blogs/blo...12v-led-strips

        Added "wiring" to original statement for clarity

        same goes for controllers and power supply ratings, just make sure you do the maths before purchasing.

        Comment


          #5
          You should also have a look at using an amplifier like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07T4VDW...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
          Zwave = Z-Stick, 3xHSM100� 7xACT ZDM230, 1xEverspring SM103, 2xACT HomePro ZRP210.
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          Scripts =
          Various

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by 123qweasd View Post
            ....hope this helps,
            SUPER helpful!! THANK YOU!

            I have some experience running LED strip/tape lights. I built an O-gauge train track around the ceiling of my son's room a decade ago. Tried to go all the way around (75ft) hooking end to end. Lights on the end were DIM and did not match the lights at the beginning where they met. Tried a much bigger power supply. That worked for a day before the first set of lights in the string melted. Because I had so much room, I then ran a BUNCH of wires and so that each 5m strip had its own PS and amplifier. THAT worked out really well. Great color and control. The track I built was on and 8-10" shelf. Plenty of room. THIS project I have a 3/8-1/2"W x 1/2"D slot I dado'd out of the bottom of 3/4" thick pine baseboard that I inverted and hung on the wall 4" from the ceiling. It's perfect and easy for EL lighting, but I am trying to go with LEDs so I can get more light and more colors. There is not enough room to add extra wires for power or even the in-line amplifiers. There is attic above this room and I could drop down with wires and come in from the wall like I did YEARS ago with real neon, but I don't really want to go with that level of effort. My thoughts when I envisioned this project was that it would be EASY. I am going to stick with that vision if it kills me!!

            .

            Comment


              #7
              So I went with these:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

              They are not individually addressable, they don't have cool patterns and they are NOT Warm White. Even though they did not match my criteria, the one benefit of these is that they are 65 feet long and you can hook the two 32.5 foot sections together end to end without an amplifier and without extra power. Nothing else out there that can actually do this right now for this price. I hooked them up end to end and the last light is just as bright and is the same color as the first light. Add to that, they are TUYA so being able to control them with Alexa took 2 minutes. Controlling them with HS is now just a matter of me upgrading to HS4!!
              .

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