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Distance between Zwave+ nodes outside - line of site?

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    #16
    Originally posted by TC1 View Post

    You would ideally have two Z-wave plus devices one at the house location one at the shed/garage.

    I've also found that you might have to optimize the nodes and/or manually set the route in order to get them to initially communicate. For example, the node that is inside your house that is closest to the garage, do a full optimize on it. Then goto the node information on the Z-wave tab. Find that node and look at its discovered neighbors, it should list the node# of the device in the garage.

    Next do the same thing for the device in the garage, it should pick up some neighbors that are inside your house.
    I just included (node 128) a new outlet module (zooz) in the shed that is zwave+. I checked it's route.... one hop (40k) to a HSDimmer (node 12) in my house. That dimmer is direct to my znet.

    When to the node information on the schlage lock - was listed as no known route. I manually put it at 128,12) and tested the connectivity. Still nothing.... can't see it.

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      #17
      Hmmm... you're doing all the right things as far as I can see... I just checked my furthest away lock on my back door but unfortunately (for this experiment) it has a direct route to my SmartStick+ since i moved the HS4 PC to a center location in the house. So I can't really do any experiments on my side to reproduce your situation.

      How did you initially add the lock in the garage? Typical you can't do NWI (network wide inclusion) on older locks and they have to be right near the controller, at least initially.

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        #18
        Originally posted by TC1 View Post
        Hmmm... you're doing all the right things as far as I can see... I just checked my furthest away lock on my back door but unfortunately (for this experiment) it has a direct route to my SmartStick+ since i moved the HS4 PC to a center location in the house. So I can't really do any experiments on my side to reproduce your situation.

        How did you initially add the lock in the garage? Typical you can't do NWI (network wide inclusion) on older locks and they have to be right near the controller, at least initially.
        Yep....thats the way I did it as well. I wonder if I have to bring it closer again with the new neighbors to optimize...so at least it has a return path?

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          #19
          Originally posted by Tomgru View Post

          Yep....thats the way I did it as well. I wonder if I have to bring it closer again with the new neighbors to optimize...so at least it has a return path?
          Maybe, i know I had to do that with my Aeotec battery powered multi-sensor in my garage... it was a struggle to get it to recognize its neighbor right next to it! But because I had the laptop right next to it, it then had a direct route to the controller. I think eventually it "forgot it" once I could get it to optimize.

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            #20
            So weird... so that outlet module i installed worked fine last night... i optimized a few times... tested it a bunch... all good. Just tried turning it on today to test, and can't be found. Same thing happened with that power strip. it works awhile, then seems to forget it's route.

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              #21
              OK.. i got this module consistently working, but when i do a "total optimization" on it, i get

              Optimization succeeded, Add Route experienced a failure

              It seems to see only one other neighbor, no where near many others that are much closer to it.

              I may try excluding/including again, just to see what neighbors come back and the return route. 50' away almost total line of site is that HS FLoodlight, and both our Zwave+, so i'm baffled why it never sees it.

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                #22
                You are braver than I am. By now, I would have given up and just installed a Wifi plug, since it has better range and still can be controlled by HS.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by aa6vh View Post
                  You are braver than I am. By now, I would have given up and just installed a Wifi plug, since it has better range and still can be controlled by HS.
                  Ha... i may now that i just put an access point outside. i have some wemo wifi plugs already but don't want to pay for the PI for this small use case.

                  HA... i just noticed HS4 has a free wemo PI. go figure :-)

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                    #24
                    is this what you use?
                    https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Occup...thewire06oa-20

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                      #25
                      I have flashed many different plugs and switches with Tasmota and no longer dependent upon cloud or special purpose plugins. Tuya Convert is used for changing the firmware without opening up the device for most of them. Tuya Convert runs on RPi. Some, such as Sonoff S31 or S31 lite, are flashed with serial connection with wires inserted into holes of the circuit board after they are open. Note that Tasmota has Wemo emulation so if you want to talk directly between the plug and Alexa without HS getting in the middle then you can.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by Tomgru View Post
                        is this what you use?
                        [/URL]
                        I am actually using the HS100 instead of the HS105 that you pointed to, but both should work the same. The TP Link plugin is free as I recall.

                        Costco occasionally sells them in batches of three. I think I got mine for < $10 each.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by Tomgru View Post
                          Sadly this stopped working yesterday. HS4 lost connection to the jasco module, and no amount of pinging/test connectivity would work.

                          Back to my original question/thought... i may try a zwave plus outlet here and see if that works with the extended range.
                          This is exactly my experience with the Jasco switches in my garage. I replaced them with HS Z-Wave+ switches and all has been well, since. I think all of my Jasco switches have either failed or been replaced. I refuse to do Jasco or GE anymore (except the outdoor switch) and I have really been pleased with my wifi switches. They cost about $15 and have worked flawlessly.
                          HomeSeer Version: HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.500
                          Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro - Work Station

                          Enabled Plug-Ins:
                          2.1.0.119: AmbientWeather | 3.0.21.0: BLLock | 2.0.24.0: BLUPS | 1.3.6.0: Device History | 3.0.0.56: EasyTrigger | 3.1.0.7: MeiHarmonyHub | 3.0.6681.34300: UltraCID3 | 3.0.6644.26753: UltraLog3 | 3.0.6554.33094: UltraMon3 | 3.0.0.91: weatherXML | 3.0.1.245: Z-Wave | 3.0.51: HS Touch Designer | 3.0.0.40 Z-Seer+

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                            #28
                            I have wifi plugs and have not found a plug in to work for me. The only way I have done this is create a script that tell Alexa to turn the lights on and off. I would rather not do it that way if there is a plug in that I am missing. PLEASE HELP ME, THANK YOU
                            danielbo

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                              #29
                              It might help if we knew what kind of Wifi plugs you have. Different Wifi plugs have different ways of controlling them, and you need the correct plugin for your plugs.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                WiFi Smart Outlet, Smart Secure Home Power Control Socket,2.4G WiFi Only, No Hub Required, Compatible with Alexa and Google Home

                                AND

                                Smart Plug, POWRUI Mini WIFI Outlet, from amazon.
                                I hope this helps. Thank you?
                                danielbo

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