If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ. You must register before you can post. Your first post will be checked for appropriate content
(SPAM) - please allow a bit of time for that. After that, you'll be able to post at will!
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Water Temperature : Monitor / Sensor ? Zwave - Zigbee - Wifi
I'm using the AmbientWeather WS-8482-3107 Floating sensor for my pool. I'm a little leery of putting a mains connected probe in the water, especially one that hasn't gotten a mile of a UL rating. Not knocking the sonoff, I've got a bunch of them.
Battery powered Z-wave water temperature sensors are like hen's teeth. Fibaro made a battery door window sensor that took the same DS-18B20 sensor as your picture, but they are hard to come by as they were replaced by newer versions without the remote sensor capability..
Fibaro made a battery door window sensor that took the same DS-18B20 sensor as your picture, but they are hard to come by as they were replaced by newer versions without the remote sensor capability..
Are you referring to the FGK-101-107?
... If these relay the actual temperature, then its perfect!
Are you referring to the FGK-101-107?
... If these relay the actual temperature, then its perfect!
I'm using a 101 but they are listed as 10x where x changes for the color. I think I've seen silver and brown online. Mine is white (hence the 101). I had it on the far side of the pool for a while and it wasn't reliable due to range, but I moved it to the strainer about 15 feet closer and it has been very reliable. I had to change some parameters to report on ~ 1 degree change. If you set it too sensitive it will reduce the battery life significantly.
Here using Sonoff Basic's modded for temperature or temperature / humidity sensors MQTT transport.
Two of the Sonoff Basics have 5 DS18B20 1-wire sensors connected to them. Now over a year working great.
I am using Espurna firmware on these. Tasmota firmware works the same way.
Just watched a You Tube video which shows how you can remove the high voltage sections of the Sonoff Basic R2 module and utilize 5VDC to power it.
Really easy to do. You remove the transformer and lift the leg of one capacitor, cut the board (almost in half) then reinstall the solenoid (if you want to use it) and reinstall the board back in the original case.
- Pete
Auto mator
Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU 16Gb- Mono 6.12.X - HSTouch on Intel tabletop tablets
Homeseer Zee2 (Lite) - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e - CherryTrail x5-Z8350 BeeLink 4Gb BT3 Pro - Mono 6.12.X
HS4 Pro - V4.1.11.0 - Ubuntu 20.01/VB W7e 64 bit Intel Kaby Lake CPU - 32Gb - Mono 6.10.0.104 HS4 Lite -
X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation-Tasmota-Espurna. OmniPro 2, Russound zoned audio, Smartthings hub, Hubitat Hub, and Home Assistant
I have a bunch of Fibaro FGK-101 (modified to run from 3V PS) and several Qubino relay modules. The all accept DS18B20 sensors. The Qubinos can be fed by a 24V PS.
I am not sure it's rational but still, for temperature measurements, I think I like Qubino modules better.
There is Fibaro FGBS-222 that can take several 1-wire and analog signals. Unfortunately, last I checked, it did not work properly with HS but maybe, HST will fix it next week
The DsS18B20 is supported by many interfaces such as what Pete described. One can be plugged into Shelly1 for an out-of-the box solution for a WiFi sensor.
I use DS18B20 to measure pond temperature. I put one inside a small copper pipe and filled it with silicone sealant for waterproofing. It has been going for many years.
Since this is an outdoor spa, I need to power it with battery. There is a 120v 1A connector on the spa controller (for an ozonator which is not installed) that I MIGHT be able to jumper...I'll need to see if it is always on. For now, the Fibaro FGK-101 is preferred. Only EU versions on ebay at the moment.
I bought these things 2-3 years ago; and not that they are expensive but still, today, there are plenty of alternatives for a fraction of the cost.
The converter Input voltage is 5-12V; and so, any unused USB adapter will work. For your application, I'd make sure that whatever converter you use to drop 120v is UL listed.
Since this is an outdoor spa, I need to power it with battery. There is a 120v 1A connector on the spa controller (for an ozonator which is not installed) that I MIGHT be able to jumper...I'll need to see if it is always on. For now, the Fibaro FGK-101 is preferred. Only EU versions on ebay at the moment.
Comment