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    Suggestions for long-range device control

    Scenario: I have a pond about 300 yards from the house. The only connectivity is single line supplying power to an air pump, water pump, and lighting. I want to control these items separately. My HS4 Windows system currently uses 3 z-nets. Is there a simple solution for control?

    One solution that comes to mind is a directional wifi link with another z-net at the pond, but that's a lot of expense and (I feel) overkill in a remote, outdoor location requiring at least some weatherproofing. Suggestions?
    |
    | - Gordon

    "I'm a Man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess." - Man's Prayer, Possum Lodge, The Red Green Show
    HiddenGemStudio.com - MaineMusicians.org - CunninghamCreativeMaine.website

    #2
    Maybe power line would work. The added expense would be the power line controller and outdoor appliance device. Here still utilize old Black and Decker Freewire outdoor X10 modules.

    Can you bury an outdoor CatXX cable to the location. This would be least expensive as wire is cheap.
    - Pete

    Auto mator
    Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU 16Gb
    Homeseer Zee2 (Lite) - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e - CherryTrail x5-Z8350 BeeLink 4Gb BT3 Pro
    HS4 Lite - Ubuntu 20.04 / VB W7e Jetway JBC420U591
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    HS4 Pro - V4.1.18.1 - Ubuntu 20.04/VB W7e 64 bit Intel Kaby Lake CPU - 32Gb
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    X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation-Tasmota-Espurna. OmniPro 2, Russound zoned audio, Smartthings hub, Hubitat Hub, and Home Assistant

    Comment


      #3
      My advice is just use the directional Wifi link idea (the added bonus is having wifi availability for folks when in that area of your property) and use some Wifi load controllers (could be wall switches or power plugs) in a weatherproof enclosure.

      I've been using these and they integrate well into HS4 since the Tuya plug-in enables local control and status feedback.
      https://www.bn-link.com/collections/...ogle-assistant
      (even cheaper on Amazon)


      Comment


        #4
        Z-Wave Plus Aeotec Heavy Duty Switch or GE Z-Wave Plus 40-Amp Indoor/Outdoor

        These will cost you but act as repeaters and if wired Ethernet at the far end then you would put one Z-NET over there (only CAT 6, 7 or now 8 can go that far) /Else things get expensive if you go for WiFi beaming (optical fibre if your switch are ready for it [long ranges])


        Eman
        TinkerLand : Life's Choices,"No One Size Fits All"

        Comment


          #5
          I agree with Pete , go with powerline since the infrastructure is already in place. Either PLC/X-10 or Powerline Ethernet and add an AP or switch at the pond. Lots of control options left there, and if you want Internet at that location you might get that as well. Likely easy to test.

          Comment


            #6
            Another vote for X-10. Been using it in my barn (500'), pump house (300') and at my pond (200') for over 30 years. It just works over long distances.

            That being said, I did put Ubiquiti Access Points (wireless) in both the barn and pump house and that is a possible solution for getting ethernet to the pond. I put them in anticipating the demise of X-10 (this was about 5 years ago). Other than upgrading my temperature monitoring in the pump house and adding WiFi to the barn, I haven't needed or used them for any power control.

            Barry

            Comment


              #7
              Today here using Ruckus WAPs....years ago tinkering purchased long range Ubiquiti outdoor WAPs (NanoStations) inside of my home which would probably work fine for you..

              Something like creating a wireless bridge maybe using a pair of these WAPs:

              Ubiquiti NSM5 Bundle of 2 NanoStation M5 5GHz Outdoor airMAX CPE 150+Mbps 15+km $214.95 on Amazon.

              You could probably purchase a couple of used Ubiquiti Nanostations for nothing these days (less than $50) to make your bridge.

              Ruckus makes outdoor bridges for around $800.00 plus.

              Here is an "el cheapo" TP-Link outdoor WAP that might work.

              TP-Link EAP225-Outdoor | Omada AC1200 Wireless Gigabit Outdoor Access Point | Business WiFi Solution w/ Mesh Support, Seamless Roaming & MU-MIMO | PoE Powered | SDN Integrated | Cloud Access & App $69.99


              25 years ago DIY'd a wireless bridge to my neighbors house using directional antennas and two DD-WRT Linksys routers.

              It was attic to attic on a two two story homes. (indoors to indoors).

              Currently using two outdoor Wireless WYSE (dual power with power monitoring) for Landscaping lighting and they work OK with the Ruckus WAP mounted on the other side of the house kitchen wall.

              These were modded with Tasmota firmware and off the cloud for only local control. (MQTT).

              Might work outdoors at a greater distance. It also has a built in bluetooth radio and it is supposed to have a better radio.
              .
              ICS-ESPurna (96%, -52 dBm) 11n
              Click image for larger version

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              - Pete

              Auto mator
              Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU 16Gb
              Homeseer Zee2 (Lite) - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e - CherryTrail x5-Z8350 BeeLink 4Gb BT3 Pro
              HS4 Lite - Ubuntu 20.04 / VB W7e Jetway JBC420U591
              Fanless IntelĀ® Celeron N3160 SoC 8Gb
              HS4 Pro - V4.1.18.1 - Ubuntu 20.04/VB W7e 64 bit Intel Kaby Lake CPU - 32Gb
              HSTouch on Intel tabletop tablets

              X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation-Tasmota-Espurna. OmniPro 2, Russound zoned audio, Smartthings hub, Hubitat Hub, and Home Assistant

              Comment


                #8
                I don't use it- but for that I would look at UPB. Lots of people here swear by it.
                HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.435 (Windows Server 8.1 on ESXi box)

                Plug-Ins Enabled:
                Z-Wave:,RaspberryIO:,AirplaySpeak:,Ecobee:,
                weatherXML:,JowiHue:,APCUPSD:,PHLocation:,Chromecast:,EasyTr igger:

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                  #9
                  Thanks everyone, I've bitten the bullet and extended my long-range wifi APs to the pond. I'm using the TP-Link CPE510 units now (they've come down in price), and though the RF propagation angle is marginal, it's working. Waiting for another Z-Net to install there now and if tests prove it works well, I'll get a weatherproof enclosure for it all.

                  I had X-10 when I bought this place a couple years ago but it has never worked reliably here. I just gave up trying to find all the issues and moved everything to Z-Wave - much faster and more reliable, for the most part. Burying another wire is not ideal as there are many in-ground pipes and obstacles to deal with. This wifi solution should work ok.

                  On to the pool pump control! ;-)
                  |
                  | - Gordon

                  "I'm a Man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess." - Man's Prayer, Possum Lodge, The Red Green Show
                  HiddenGemStudio.com - MaineMusicians.org - CunninghamCreativeMaine.website

                  Comment


                    #10
                    FWIW, this is my place, though I've added a few things since this was taken. New AP is down at the bridge on the pond.
                    Click image for larger version

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                    |
                    | - Gordon

                    "I'm a Man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess." - Man's Prayer, Possum Lodge, The Red Green Show
                    HiddenGemStudio.com - MaineMusicians.org - CunninghamCreativeMaine.website

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Now I can see where a device like this in this : https://forums.homeseer.com/forum/ho...shelly-pro-4pm thread would come in handy....You also eliminate the Z-NET and Just keep the Wi-Fi with MQTT
                      • Four outputs and the whole project is covered...

                      Eman.
                      TinkerLand : Life's Choices,"No One Size Fits All"

                      Comment


                        #12
                        FWIW, the AP with Z-Net is working pretty well. I've housed them in a large SockItBox and so far that has kept the electrical/electronics dry and running ok. I'm running some lights on the bridge and an aeration system for the pond under HS control, as well as the AP and Z-Net.
                        |
                        | - Gordon

                        "I'm a Man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess." - Man's Prayer, Possum Lodge, The Red Green Show
                        HiddenGemStudio.com - MaineMusicians.org - CunninghamCreativeMaine.website

                        Comment


                          #13
                          So it seems you desire to have three relays to control different functions. Your options are 1) to to provide a remote node from which specific device control can be performed. 2) provide a long range connection to each relay.

                          For #1 you are installing an infrastructure for which additional capability comes at modest cost, The initial pair of nanostations and RPi do represent an investment. You can then use whatever short range technology which which you are comfortable.

                          For #2 I am only aware of two low cost solutions. One is DIY RF such as 433 MHz or LoRa. The other is YoLink that also uses LoRa@928 MHz. YoLink has the downside of needing a Cloud connection at the HS computer.

                          X10 and UPB were also mentioned as power line solutions that assume a power line exists at remote end point. X10/Ethernet at this distance will in high probability not work. X10 in general is subject to powerline noise so I would not use it in a new install. UPB should work at this distance but you have few options for what you install at the remote location. If you are doing powerline switches your are ok. There is also a UPB IO module that I have used in a 500 ft remote install. You will be spending more on a UPB installation than a WiFi Nanostation solution.

                          If you do not have power at the remote location then solar panels and battery could be a power solution and in that case you will want a low power consumption approach such as LoRa.

                          I have one install where I use a pair of EByte LoRa serial terminals that communicate to a remote RPi. The RPi interprets the serial communication to take out the desired action. A little bit of DIY, but overall effective, extensible and lower cost. I use the 1 Watt LoRa terminal. You are welcome to the VB.Net application I run on the RPi as well as any help I can provide for its customization.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Thanks, Michael, good info. I've got my use case covered well at present.
                            |
                            | - Gordon

                            "I'm a Man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess." - Man's Prayer, Possum Lodge, The Red Green Show
                            HiddenGemStudio.com - MaineMusicians.org - CunninghamCreativeMaine.website

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Anything Wifi,
                              My gate is about 100m from my house, but with a good external wifi point I can control a Shelly device.
                              and you can set up a Solar powered wifi repeater as well.

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