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    Please Help with fan control recommendation

    We have an old fan on our porch which has no light. I'd like to get a new fan with a light so that I can control both light and fan with HS. There is one swich on the wall controlling the fan and I see no evidence of additional wiring that could be used for the light. I know that there are fans with remotes to control fan and light, but I'd like to also be able to control with HS. Can anyone steer me toward something that will work for this?
    Thanx!!

    #2
    How many wires do you have going to the fan from the switch?

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      #3
      I use one of these to control multiple ceiling fans that also have lights. There is a plugin for this so you can also control with Homeseer.

      https://bondhome.io/product/bond-bridge/


      Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
      HS4 4.2.6.0 &HSTouch Designer 3.0.80
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        #4
        Here is one that replaces your wall switch, gives you two physical switches for the light and fan. Being that you are going to replace the light/fan anyway, you'll be in there to install the remote switch inside the baseplate of the fan.

        https://inovelli.com/red-series-fan-...switch-z-wave/

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          #5
          ... but he'll need 3 wires going to the fan.
          HS3PRO 3.0.0.500 as a Fire Daemon service, Windows 2016 Server Std Intel Core i5 PC HTPC Slim SFF 4GB, 120GB SSD drive, WLG800, RFXCom, TI103,NetCam, UltraNetcam3, BLBackup, CurrentCost 3P Rain8Net, MCsSprinker, HSTouch, Ademco Security plugin/AD2USB, JowiHue, various Oregon Scientific temp/humidity sensors, Z-Net, Zsmoke, Aeron Labs micro switches, Amazon Echo Dots, WS+, WD+ ... on and on.

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            #6
            Originally posted by langenet View Post
            ... but he'll need 3 wires going to the fan.
            No, just two or actually 1, the receiver is Z-Wave and locally controls the fan from under the shroud. All the receiver needs is a hot (which in a switch loop circuit is always available in the ceiling and a ground. The other side of the receiver provides hot, neutral and ground to control the fan.

            It's all in the installation instructions right on the website I listed.

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              #7
              Ah... I stand corrected. Thanks!
              HS3PRO 3.0.0.500 as a Fire Daemon service, Windows 2016 Server Std Intel Core i5 PC HTPC Slim SFF 4GB, 120GB SSD drive, WLG800, RFXCom, TI103,NetCam, UltraNetcam3, BLBackup, CurrentCost 3P Rain8Net, MCsSprinker, HSTouch, Ademco Security plugin/AD2USB, JowiHue, various Oregon Scientific temp/humidity sensors, Z-Net, Zsmoke, Aeron Labs micro switches, Amazon Echo Dots, WS+, WD+ ... on and on.

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                #8
                No problem, it's an interesting solution for something that the wiring electrician does all the time whenever the homeowner doesn't have the foresight to specify a 'Fan' fixture and double switches. Happens more often that we all would admit to, and I'm an EE and design engineer and built 3 homes and even I forgot to specify the Fan requirement in the drawings. Sigh..... Live and, unassumingly, not learn! LOL

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by George View Post
                  No problem, it's an interesting solution for something that the wiring electrician does all the time whenever the homeowner doesn't have the foresight to specify a 'Fan' fixture and double switches. Happens more often that we all would admit to, and I'm an EE and design engineer and built 3 homes and even I forgot to specify the Fan requirement in the drawings. Sigh..... Live and, unassumingly, not learn! LOL
                  interesting.. my family room is this way.. what about if you have 2 wires and 1 switch? currently not automated
                  HW - i5 4570T @2.9ghz runs @11w | 8gb ram | 128gb ssd OS - Win10 x64

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by TeleFragger View Post

                    interesting.. my family room is this way.. what about if you have 2 wires and 1 switch? currently not automated
                    What two wires?
                    • Black and White and Ground (copper)?
                    • Two Blacks, one White, Ground (copper).
                    • Black and Red (traveler, if they were to code they did this as a switch loop)
                    It's easy to figure out, if you pull the switch out, don't disconnect it but just take a picture of the back and post it here. I'll be able to tell how they wired it.

                    The ground is Code today, the neutral is not if they just created lazily created a switch loop.

                    The one thing I did do right was to specify Hot, Neutral and Ground to every switch and socket (every) wall box. Sort of pissed off the electrician as it's more Romex cable. They still did switch loops but at least with a neutral in every box, I could install X-10, Z-Wave, whatever, where ever I wanted.

                    Also, do you have a non-invasive AC sniffer that you can sniff which wires are hot and which are not?

                    Something like this? If not, if you ever plan on working on your switches yourself, do yourself a favor and get one of these. In the old days I just used a VOM but that's invasive and if your not careful you can short out lots of stuff.

                    I have this exact one below, it's cheap and right now on Black Friday sale! Maybe I'll get a spare so I don't have to run to my toolbox if I just want to test an outlet for that price!

                    https://www.amazon.com/KAIWEETS-Sens.../dp/B07SL4NSS1

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by George View Post

                      What two wires? Black and White and Ground (copper)? Two Blacks, one White, Ground (copper).

                      The ground is Code today, the neutral is not if they just created lazily created a switch loop.

                      The one thing I did do right was to specify Hot, Neutral and Ground to every switch and socket (every) wall box. Sort of pissed off the electrician as it's more Romex cable. They still did switch loops but at least with a neutral in every box, I could install X-10, Z-Wave, whatever, where ever I wanted.
                      do not want to junk up the guy's thread with that.. hah.. i will start my own thread if I wish too.. but not leaving you hanging..
                      before I got into HS, i put a ceiling fan in my son's room.. ran a black/red/white and copper... and he can run lights and/or fan independently of each other. It is on a home depot switch where there is a 3 position slider on left for fan, toggle to turn light on and a dimmer slider on right for light...
                      just never got around to figuring out what to put in there.
                      side note to that, my wife requires toggle switches so for x10 I always used togglelinc and now for zwave and zwave+ i use zooze toggles... work great...

                      gnight all...
                      HW - i5 4570T @2.9ghz runs @11w | 8gb ram | 128gb ssd OS - Win10 x64

                      HS - HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.435

                      Plugins - BLRF 2.0.94.0 | Concord 4 3.1.13.10 | HSBuddy 3.9.605.5 | HSTouch Server 3.0.0.68 | RFXCOM 30.0.0.36 | X10 3.0.0.36 | Z-Wave 3.0.1.190

                      Hardware - EdgePort/4 DB9 Serial | RFXCOM 433MHz USB Transceiver | Superbus 2000 for Concord 4 | TI103 X-10 Interface | WGL Designs W800 RF | Z-Net Z-Wave Interface

                      Comment


                        #12
                        About a year or so ago I replaced a ceiling fan in our bedroom. There was a single switch, but the fan had lights also. Both lights and fan were controlled by cords, the switch just turned the whole device on or off. I replaced the fan with a MinkaAire DC fan with an LED light. It is controlled primarily by a remote. When I installed it, I just wired the fan housing with constant voltage. I control the fan and light with the supplied remote. I replaced the switch for the fan with an old Eaton/Cooper scene controller I had laying around. I just use the remote to control the fan and light. If I wanted to control through HS, I would add the Bond plugin. If you replace the switch with some type of controller, you could do any number of outside events with that. The DC fan is, for all purposes, silent, has 7 speeds (some have many more) but the light dim/brighten is only controlled by holding a button down for a period of time. A press turns it on or off. I would highly recommend a DC fan even though it's more expensive than AC.

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                          #13
                          Another question:
                          In looking at fans, I saw some that said they worked with the bond bridge app. Does that mean the bridge is built in? Would it work with the HS plugin? If so, then I'd have to decide whether I wanted to buy the bridge to use with other fans. Does anyone know if the bridge works with Hunter Douglas shades? If so, I would for sure buy the bridge!

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                            #14
                            Here never automated the fan / light combos mostly because the switches were paired next to UPB switches in a 4 X 4 metal box. Recently installed combo speed / light control WiFi switches that work great with mcsMQTT. All conduit here. You could pull another wire from the light fan box to the wall light switch if you are using conduit.

                            https://forums.homeseer.com/forum/ho...switch-options

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