Upgrading z-wave deadbolt recommendations?

[sbwright]

Ready to be schooled on how? There's the root device and 7 child devices don't see a device created that can be used to access the current codes in the locks or add new ones. I'll do some searches to see if there are any threads describing how. Didn't think it was possible so didn't bother even looking.

[TC1]

Click on the root device for the lock. Click on the Z-wave tab. Click Manage. Click Settings.

[sbwright]

Thanks so much, wouldn't have found that on my own. So all the codes that were added at each of the actual locks, do they need to be removed at the lock prior to inputting the new codes on the root device? I see that HS can't see the existing codes they show up as xxxxx.

[TC1]

Thanks so much, wouldn't have found that on my own. So all the codes that were added at each of the actual locks, do they need to be removed at the lock prior to inputting the new codes on the root device? I see that HS can't see the existing codes they show up as xxxxx.

I forget, it's been so long since I added/changed codes.

Click the dropdown for "Choose the user code location to work with:" and if there's a code in that slot it should return something. If it shows up as XXXXX that means it might be the default codes. For the BE469's, slots 1 and 2 contain factory default codes, those are the codes the firmware will load if you do a factory reset. When I setup my locks I didn't want the factory codes there since they were not easy to remember for my family, so first thing I did is select those slots and then removed them. I then programmed new codes in their places.

If you ever do a factory reset again, the firmware will just rewrite slots 1 and 2 with the factory defaults. This comes in handy in case you sell the house and decide to leave the locks for the next owner.

Even if you've already setup your locks manually with new codes I highly recommend reprogramming them from the HS interface. That way they'll have names attached to the code slots in HS and you'll be able to create meaningful Events, ie, "If User code 1 is entered after 2am send me a text message", whereas code 1 is assigned to my kid. That way you can assign user codes to everyone in your household and know when certain people are coming home. Or assign a user code to the cleaning person and you'll have a record of when they entered.

[Rupp]

Guys, what's the difference in motorized vs manual throws in relationship to home automation. It "sounds" like the manual wouldn't be able to be locked remotely but I'm not familiar with this.

[paul]

Guys, what's the difference in motorized vs manual throws in relationship to home automation. It "sounds" like the manual wouldn't be able to be locked remotely but I'm not familiar with this.

That's correct. I've used the Schlage manual throw in the past. You cannot lock/unlock remotely without someone being there. Basically, when you punch in the code, or hit lock/unlock remotely, it engages the turn thingy, and the person can then turn the deadbolt to lock/unlock the door. if you punch in the wrong code, the turn thingy just spins freely and doesn't move the bolt. So it's not truely a remote lock/unlock. But you can let someone in by having them ping you when they're at the door, then you trigger the lock and they can then turn it and open the dead bolt.

motorized throws are fully remote lock/unlock of the deadbolt. The two main downsides to motorized throws are:

1. harder on battery life
2. you really need to make sure your deadbolt is well lined up so that it can easily lock/unlock fully, or you risk jamming the bolt.

By the way "turn thingy" is the scientifical term for that thing, in case you were wondering. :P

regards,

Paul

[sbwright]

I forget, it's been so long since I added/changed codes.

Click the dropdown for "Choose the user code location to work with:" and if there's a code in that slot it should return something. If it shows up as XXXXX that means it might be the default codes. For the BE469's, slots 1 and 2 contain factory default codes, those are the codes the firmware will load if you do a factory reset. When I setup my locks I didn't want the factory codes there since they were not easy to remember for my family, so first thing I did is select those slots and then removed them. I then programmed new codes in their places.

If you ever do a factory reset again, the firmware will just rewrite slots 1 and 2 with the factory defaults. This comes in handy in case you sell the house and decide to leave the locks for the next owner.

Even if you've already setup your locks manually with new codes I highly recommend reprogramming them from the HS interface. That way they'll have names attached to the code slots in HS and you'll be able to create meaningful Events, ie, "If User code 1 is entered after 2am send me a text message", whereas code 1 is assigned to my kid. That way you can assign user codes to everyone in your household and know when certain people are coming home. Or assign a user code to the cleaning person and you'll have a record of when they entered.

Awesome info thanks so much. This is timely as I was about to change the lock combos as I noticed that some of the number pads are beginning to show signs of the same 4 numbers being reused, not good. Setting up each family member with a different code will resolve this issue. Using events will be a bonus.

[Rupp]

Ok this thread was the final nudge I needed (along with the temps in the 70's in December) to finally add a dead bolt to my front door. Yep, we've never had a dead bolt but had a brass handle that was keyed. A few nights ago the lock button popped out so that was further motivation to replace the handle. I went with the Camelot Satin Nickel Connect Z-Wave Plus Smart Deadbolt and Camelot Handleset with Accent Lever with Camelot Trim Our solid Oak door was a pain to work with but I got the holes drilled and the plates chiseled out. I was amazed at just how easy this lock enrolled into my Z-Wave network as I was expecting issues due to the past threads on this lock. I used Z-Tools to add a node, pushed the button on the lock and after a few lines of code the lock was added. I enabled the auto lock on the lock and added 3 new user codes and so far so good. I'm a little surprised by the size of the dead bolt portion of the lock on the interior and a tad bit shocked how loud this lock is but it's working great. Thanks for the nudge.

[TC1]

Ok this thread was the final nudge I needed (along with the temps in the 70's in December) to finally add a dead bolt to my front door. Yep, we've never had a dead bolt but had a brass handle that was keyed. A few nights ago the lock button popped out so that was further motivation to replace the handle. I went with the Camelot Satin Nickel Connect Z-Wave Plus Smart Deadbolt and Camelot Handleset with Accent Lever with Camelot Trim Our solid Oak door was a pain to work with but I got the holes drilled and the plates chiseled out. I was amazed at just how easy this lock enrolled into my Z-Wave network as I was expecting issues due to the past threads on this lock. I used Z-Tools to add a node, pushed the button on the lock and after a few lines of code the lock was added. I enabled the auto lock on the lock and added 3 new user codes and so far so good. I'm a little surprised by the size of the dead bolt portion of the lock on the interior and a tad bit shocked how loud this lock is but it's working great. Thanks for the nudge.

I have the exact same handleset on my front door. Good choice

Yeah, I've never had a problem including these locks, and I'm using the older Z-wave 300-series ones. The folks having problems don't understand how Z-wave works (it's not plug n play when it comes to locks) and have their network built out properly to support locks (ie, beaming nodes near the locks).