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Tilt sensor alternatives?

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    Tilt sensor alternatives?

    I've had the Ecolink tilt sensor fail again, which apparently is a common problem. Any alternatives for garage door position sensing? Zooz has a new product, ZSE34. which looks good. But it doesn't list Homeseer as a compatible hub.

    Contact switches. I use one contact switch when garage door is closed and another one when garage door is open. Over the years the GDO / switches have been wired to the alarm panel. A couple of years ago tested a Sonoff Basic with a temperature sensor, 2 contact sensors and an opener button.

    The Sonoff basic uses MQTT.

    Testing two proprietary Z-Wave garage door contact sensors in house #2 with the Ring Alarm system. Works well after 2 years. I manage the Ring Alarm system from house #1.
    - Pete

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      I also use magnetic contact switches. I do not establish various positions of the doors, just open or closed. I have these going back to a rpi that I use to control multiple garage doors and a few other contact switches in my garage. The downside to this is the wiring that is needed as it I'd all hardwired. The rpi is probably overkill but it required no need to solder and reflash things, like some of the esp8266 based solutions would require.


        I use ds10s which work well with bonus of the batteries lasting 2 years at least
        HS3PRO as a Fire Daemon service, Windows 2016 Server Std Intel Core i5 PC HTPC Slim SFF 4GB, 120GB SSD drive, WLG800, RFXCom, TI103,NetCam, UltraNetcam3, BLBackup, CurrentCost 3P Rain8Net, MCsSprinker, HSTouch, Ademco Security plugin/AD2USB, JowiHue, various Oregon Scientific temp/humidity sensors, Z-Net, Zsmoke, Aeron Labs micro switches, Amazon Echo Dots, WS+, WD+ ... on and on.


          What do you use to open/close the garage doors?

          I use a mimo2 which has outputs for controlling the doors, but also inputs that can be hardwired to mag switches to sense door closed/not closed.

          If you want to sense door closed and door fully open you'd need a different solution that has more inputs though.


            Unless something has finally changed, the MIMO2+ relays work great with HS (I use it to control two garage doors), but its inputs don't work. has the long running discussion on this. The MIMOlite is reported to work correctly, but is just a single relay and input. I use magnetic sensors connected to my alarm system to monitor garage door status.


              Originally posted by czagar View Post
              Unless something has finally changed, the MIMO2+ relays work great with HS (I use it to control two garage doors), but its inputs don't work. has the long running discussion on this. The MIMOlite is reported to work correctly, but is just a single relay and input. I use magnetic sensors connected to my alarm system to monitor garage door status.
              Hrm good to know. I don't actually have the inputs hooked up on my mimo2+ I'm just using the outputs right now.

              I am using inputs on a mimolite though and they work flawless. In fact it is much more reliable with homeseer than it was with Vera which is funny because both are owned by ezlo.

              Could also use a fibaro smart implant but I haven't tried one in homeseer yet.


                If you are setup for Zigbee then the Aqara DJT11LM is a good choice for tilt and vibration. I have used it for a mailbox door and use the reported tilt angle to know if it is open or shut. Battery life is excellent. It uses a coin cell that I have never replaced in a couple years.

                If you are not setup for zigbee then I can provide a USB dongle for $10 that runs zigbee2mqtt application on Linux or Windows and mcsMQTT plugin to interface with HS. Other choices at a higher price point are JowiHue plugin coupled with Conbee dongle or HST's zigbee which uses the dongle they sell.

                For my Garage door I use a Sonoff Basic with some custom firmware. My door has two microswitches that indicate the open and closed position (or somewhere in-between). If I was going to do it again I would use a ESP8266 with two relay outputs. One for the pushbutton press. One for a light or buzzer so notification of a pending automatic/unattended door action could be given. The Dingtian IP/Relay/Input also makes for a very attractive solution if one desires to put the control logic in HS events rather than in the microcontroller. They sell 2, 4 and 8 channel products in the $15 range.


                  dmiller I have been using a Ecolink D/W Sensor that has the 2 wire block inside. I connect the wires from the reed switch to the d/w sensor. Both the reed switch and d/w sensor are mounted on the header above the top of the door. Magnet is mounted to the door. Has never failed here in CO and it gets pretty cold and hot.


                  Just one example of a reed/magnet combo, there are others that will work as well like this one.



                    I also wanted to love my Ecolink Tilt switches, but also had failures to detect tilt after a year or so on them. They had such good battery life and when they worked, they worked very well. I would repurpose the old ones using the terminals for things (you have to bend the physical tilt sensor inside or remove it to use the terminals) .

                    I finally determined it was the cheap tilt switch inside the sensor causing the problem and bought a few of these:

                    They are a bit of a pain to solder into the switches, but I have replaced in the switches I am actually using for tilt and they have been VERY reliable and run for years ever since.


                      Another option on the EcoLink Tilt switches is just to go inside and fix them. What fails is the tilt sensor itself, which is just a ball that rolls from one end to the other and gets stuck. Manufacturers had to move to these devices when the US banned the ultra reliable and super high voltage handling Mercury switches.

                      But, tisk no more. Just search on eBay for Mercury Switch. You'll find you can buy them in lots of 10 (shipped from China of course) and they are perfectly fine. I've fixed some of my high voltage (Sump Pump Floats 120V) that had the stupid balls and got fried, with the little mercury switches and voilĂ  all is well.

                      Also, if any of you have any of the older dial thermostats laying around, they are GOLD. They work by a therm sensitive coil with (guess what) a mercury switch at the end. As the coil unwinds, it makes the mercury move to the contacts. As it contracts, the mercury moves the other way and breaks the circuit. So if you have any, just take one apart and salvage the switch!

                      So if you like the EchLink's, just fix them, a 10 minute project and a soldering iron!