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  • fungun
    replied
    Update

    Well Martin sent me a Coupler/Repeater that plugins into a 220 outlet. Had to swap the outlet, was an old one (allslots were straight, not a "L" shape) Been working great for 3 days now.
    Been running a script just for the 3 switches I have put in so far to cycle On Off every 3 min for 1 min each. Just to put a heavy test on 'em. No probs.
    Thanx Guys
    Tim
    Last edited by fungun; January 29, 2005, 03:47 PM.

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  • fungun
    replied
    I will.
    thank you BSR
    Tim

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  • BraveSirRobbin
    replied
    Hey, try it. If it doesn't work, go for the outlet solution by the fuse box that I suggested above.

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  • Rupp
    replied
    Tim,
    Not to crash your party but this test works about 10-15% of the time. There have been many many threads where users have tried the over/dryer/etc test and it worked but then they plugged in a "plugin" style coupler repeater and it either didn't work or worked intermittently. In your case, where you are on a fuse panel, it may very well be your only easy solution.

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  • fungun
    replied
    Found this at "Automated Outlet" --
    How do I Know I Need a SignaLinc?
    Here is an easy test you can perform to see if your home would benefit from a SignaLinc. Find the X10 transmitter and receiver that never seem to work together and try sending a signal between the two right now (still not working, right?). Then, turn on a 220-volt appliance, like your electric oven, clothes dryer, or central air conditioning. It has to be an all-electric appliance; turning on a gas dryer won't work. Now, go back to the transmitter and re-send the signal to that problematic module. If it now works, then you've proven that a SignaLinc will help the X10 signals in your home. In this test, the 220-volt appliance acted like a phase coupler. --
    It worked ! I started my cebtral air unit (wife thought I'm nuts, it's only 7 F outside now) but the switches worked while it was on. Also (shame on me) I forgot I do have a 220 outlet in the garage. It's way in the back, guy must have had a welder or something, anyway I always forget its there. Now I may get this one--
    http://automatedoutlet.com/product.p...&cat=42&page=1
    --this will / should fix it right?
    Thanx again guys
    Tim

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  • BraveSirRobbin
    replied
    Tim:

    Not sure where your fuse box is, but I'm betting mounted on a wall in your basement.

    Can you just mount an extra "box" on the side and wire a 220 volt outlet there, then just mount the coupler on that outlet?

    Of course this would depend on if you had "extra" circuit cabability in that fusebox.

    If it were me I would probably just "hard wire" a coupler repeater in/on those extra circuits inside a junction box next to the fuse box.

    Possibly something like this? This shows an A10 Coupler Repeater mounted on a "two wide" junction box and the wires run behind it inside the drywall to the breaker box below where it is "hardwired" to two breakers (one to each phase for 220 volt).

    Any of this make sense?

    BSR

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  • Rupp
    replied
    Sounds like you may need to go with an RF solution. Z-Wave is an affordable solution.

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  • fungun
    replied
    Ok now I know it must be a phase prob. I searched the forum and they talk about these dryer plugin in couplers, and ones that go into the breaker box. Prob-My house is kinda old. I have a fuse box, 2 rows of 4 fuses each, at the top is 2 large square boxes (mains I think). My dryer is not 220 only 110(and gas). No 220 that I can find anywhere.
    So knowing all that, what is the best way to continue. I have installed 4 wall switches throughout the house. Can not control a single one .
    But can control 8 lamp and 4 appliance moduals all over the house with no probs.
    Thanx
    Tim

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  • rocco
    Guest replied
    No, the WS467 is ambidextrous.

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  • fungun
    replied
    Just thought of throwing this out-Is it possible to wire them backwards (haven't tried it yet) Old wiring has no colors to go by.
    Tim

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  • fungun
    replied
    Well after "alot" of fiddeling with the fuses (yea it's an old house) I discover that the outlets seem to belong to certain fuses and the switches to other fuses. The only time that I pulled a fuse that a switch and an outlet went out at the same time is where that switch runs that outlet. I will try the lamp mod idea.
    Thanx
    Tim

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  • nightwalker
    replied
    a quick test would be to take out the switch temporary and wire in an outlet and plug in the lamp there and see what happens. You can also try using a mini controller pluged into several outlets around the house, especially those that are in the same circuit as the switches. If you have access to a X10 signal strength tester it's a good thing to plug the transmitter into the spot where you're connecting HS and use the reciever everywhere else in the house, after that you'll know if you need a coupler/repeater, or a couple of filters on known signal suckers. Some TV's and lots of VCR's are very tough on X10 signal strength. If you don't do anything else at least install a Coupler and save yourself a lot of grief down the line.

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  • fungun
    replied
    New Prob

    Ok I'm at a loss But it sounds like a coupler/repeater prob.
    Am gonna ask anyway. I installed 2 WS467 x10 light switches, but can get no control over them from HS. I took a Lamp Module and a lamp all over the house. I can control every plugin in the house, but not the 2 switches I just put in. Any ideas?
    Thank
    Tim

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  • fungun
    replied
    Thanx guys.
    Well back to Automated Outlet
    Tim

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  • wz2p7j
    Guest replied
    Ws467

    Hi Tim,

    The WS467 is not going to work in a 3 way setup. I now it's confusing 'cuz there's only 2 switches but it's called 3 way because of the pole setup. Anyway, what you need is something like this:

    http://www.smarthome.com/2032.html

    The instructions will be enclosed and should be fairly self explanatory. If you still need help, please post again.

    Chris

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