Building a new house any reccomendations on what to add.

[mulu]

Mulu where did you source your z-wave roller shade module from I saw some here doenst seem to be more than any regular roller shade with control

Products – SmartWings (smartwingshome.com)

Since it was basically a new construction we bought new shades from Home Depot. These shades (Bali) already had the Somfy z-wave motors integrated. In the bedrooms we have Levolor shades that open from both the bottom and top. Unfortunately, when you select the option for opening from the bottom AND top then there is no option to motorize them. Initially I was thinking of doing it myself, at least to opening/closing from the bottom. But except for in one bedroom they are either closed all the time or open all the time so I never bothered looking into motorizing them. The motors are actually also rather loud so I wouldn't want to use them when my wife is already sleeping.

[mulu]

IMO, the best use of tablets is for information-at-a-glance. When approaching/walking by the screen it comes on and you can see things like currently playing, temps, perimeter sensors, weather, etc.

Also, late at night sometimes you don't want to use voice commands.

Agreed. I mostly use it to check the weather forecast as I walk out of the house. I also use it to control the heater/AC (I should set up some Alexa routines for that, actually) and to arm/disarm the security system (the downstairs tablet is mounted by the entrance).

[Dan-O]

I agree that Zwave switches are the best for lights.

I agree. I think Touch Screens look really cool BUT no one at my house and other houses where I have done installs wants to walking around touching screens when they can just voice command Google (or Alexa) to do it. I have one Touch Screen and my house but I never have to wipe the screen off as it has no fingerprints on it!

I concur. Last year I had the itch to go touchscreens and did research and pricing for parts and realized, I'd never use them.
Z-Wave is also my protocol of choice. Although I still have some X-10 modules that I break out during Christmastime. (I would NEVER recommend building a beautiful new house with X-10 - but I'm sure the OP is well aware)


For audio/announcements I just discovered the Chromecast plugin and it's been great. I must have had my head buried in the sand. My fear is that Google Home and Chromecast is gimmicky enough that it will fade so they are not permanent installs where they are located throughout our home. I'm using clean looking wall mounts that could be removed and mounting holes repaired if needed.
The house where we used to live I had speakers in many of the rooms throughout the house and powered it with an inexpensive ELK-800 amplifier connected directly to the HS server. Talk about bulletproof!

I've been using HomeSeer since 1999 and I've seen a ton of ideas come and go. It's nearly impossible to predict the future but if I was building and had the resources, along with the other great suggestions people have shared, I'd also suggest a neutral to every box (where possible) I think I saw that there are some newer Z-Wave switches that don't require a neutral now so even that thought might be moot.

[TC1]

I'd also suggest a neutral to every box (where possible) I think I saw that there are some newer Z-Wave switches that don't require a neutral now so even that thought might be moot.

I don't think that's an issue for new builds since the NEC now requires a neutral at all boxes.

[tt300zrcr]

i am wondering if i even should run poe to like touch panel just hide it in the wall incase i ever wanted i think that probably the best bet i rather just talk to alexa mostly. still working on the plans but i think i should have good understanding now.

[mulu]

i am wondering if i even should run poe to like touch panel just hide it in the wall incase i ever wanted i think that probably the best bet i rather just talk to alexa mostly. still working on the plans but i think i should have good understanding now.

You should have wiring to the touch panel so the panels always have power. And if you run wires then just run high quality CAT6a wires. This gives you the flexibility of just running power but also more complex devices or tap into that wire to add other devices. I also have a few CAT6a cables behind sheetrock in case I want to add TVs on certain walls, ceiling mounted video cameras, etc. For TVs, route the CAT a stud away from where you have an electrical outlet. That way you can get AC and Ethernet routed up and behind the TV and the CAT cable and electrical cable aren't close enough to interfere.

[Robert Willis]

Lessons Learned from 2017 New Home:

1. Install a 19" wall mounted rack where all of the cables will terminate. I am using products from NavePoint. In 2017 I used CAT5E cable.
2. Install a suitable UPS for all of the equipment in the wall mounted rack.
3. Install appropriate patch panels CAT6 or 6A
4. Install a power distribution strip plug in the top of the enclosure.
5. Install a suitable Ethernet Switch (I prefer a managed switch and consider a POE version.) My main switch is a 48 port 1GB TP-LINK L2 Managed Switch.
6. Install multiple Ethernet cables to each location. This will prevent you from have to place Ethernet Switches in the living area (Think blinking Ethernet Led's at night.)
7. Take pictures of every wall plate and document how they are connected back to the patch panel.
8. Test every cable prior to moving the furniture in.

[looney2ns]

Clearly mark each cable at the rack.
With something permanent like this, and use heat shrink labels.
https://www.amazon.com/DYMO-Industri...98&sr=8-3&th=1

[Mark S.]

Clearly mark each cable at the rack.
With something permanent like this, and use heat shrink labels.
https://www.amazon.com/DYMO-Industri...98&sr=8-3&th=1

Yes, labelling is critical as you install your wires. I use a Brother PTouch labelmaker to tag both ends of every wire with a coded number. In my case, I use a three component code to label each wire. The first part is the service area (for example 1 = goes to the 1st floor, B= Barn, G = garage, etc.), the second part is the type of wire (e.g., 6a = Cat 6a, 22 = 22 gauge 4 conductor, etc., and the last part in just a sequential number (e.g., 1 = the first run of that type of wire, 2 = the second run, etc. So each cable will be labelled with something like 1-6a-4 or G-18-1. This makes it a whole lot easier figure out if I have a spare wire that I might need, know where it goes, and to make sure I am terminating the correct cable.