Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Prewiring Underway/Sheetrock Next week- Suggestion/Help Solicited

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Prewiring Underway/Sheetrock Next week- Suggestion/Help Solicited

    Hello All,

    I have some question that I needs some help on. Any guidance would be appreciated. Currently doing prewiring for either HAI Omni Pro/ELK M1 Gold (still undecided). So far all the contact sensors for the door/windows, Thermostat, Keypad are done.

    The questions are -
    1. Can I use Cat5 for the Smoke/Fire Sensors?
    2. Ran a Cat5 from ThermoSTAT to the Central Panel on top of the std STAT wiring that security company (BRINKS) does. Do I need to run a Cat5 from the Keypad to the Central Panel on top of the std wiring as well?
    3. Ran a Cat5 & RG6 from front door and back door for the Camera and its power. Do I need any thing else for this?
    4. What else I need to prewire for security?
    5. I desire to put a electronic lock on the garage door. ( Not the big gargage door but the door from garage to the home). What wiring do I need to put there, where and how do I do it?
    Any help in this regard would be appreciated. Thanks,

    So far the following prewiring (all Home Runs) has been done-
    • All Window/Door Contacts are done
    • All Keypad, Siren wiring are done
    • All TheromSTAT wiring are done. Aditional Cat5 from STAT to 'C'entral 'W'iring 'P'anel.
    • All audio wiring done for Whole House Audio. 1 pair 16AWG (Shielded) from speakers to Keypad Location. 2 Pair 16AWG(Shielded) from Keypad to CWP. Going to use RUSSSOUND CAV6.6. All Keypad Location have a Cat5 run.
    • 7.1 in Family Room. Rear Surround (in Kitchen whcih is next to Family)Wried thru a keypad location so that these speakers can be used for Family Surround and Whole House Audio in Kitchen as well.
    • 7.1 in Game Room/Home Theatre
    • Secondary BedRooms have 1RG6/Cat5 together towards the ceiling for future TV/Camera. 1 Cat5 next to Window for Blind/Drape. 1 Cat5 at each side of future bed for phone/network. 1 Cat5 at the Keypad location for CAV6.6 discussed above.
    • Master has 2 Cat/2 RG6 at TV location. 1 cat5 at keypad location. 1 Cat for Drape next to window. 1 cat5 at each side of bed. 1 aditinal cat 5 near the small couch/table area in Master bedroom.
    • Master Bath has 1cat/1rg6 for future tv towards the ceiling. 1 cat5 for the CAV6.6. 1 cat 5 near the shower/tub near ceiling for temperature/humidity sensor (for turning on the bath exhaust fan).
    • Kitchen has 1 CAT5/1 RG6 for the TV location. 2 CAT5 & 1 RG6 for future location for Touch Screen (CinemarOnline). 1 CAT5 for the Kitchen Blinds next to Window. 2 Aditional Cat5 at differnet locations for Phone and networking. 1 CAT5 at Keypad Location for CAV6.6
    • Family Room is something where I have just put 1 Cat & 1 RG6 for TV location as I have access to the Attac and wall facess the Garage and I can put as many wires very easily as I want. I have hoever put 1 cat for the Drape next to the Family Windows.
    • 1Cat/1RG6 for camera at fornt and Rea Door.
    • Most important point!!! For Open Air Mic, I bought a 4 conductor 22AWG, shielded with a drain wire. 2 condutors for Mic and 2 for push button to gain attention. As it turns out that I may not put the push button and Mic at same location so I will have to do 2 home runs. 1 for the mic and 1 for the push buttion and this is costing me alot. (Wish I could have asked Paul sooner) Any one here please follow Paul's guidance. http://board.homeseer.com/showthread.php?t=105723 . Automated Outlet sells the right wire for this job at right price. I paid alot more than this by buying for somewere else.
    I know this is a boring discussion but I have learned a lot from this forum so I wanted to share these here for newbies like me.

    Any suggestions/Comments would be greatly appreicated.

    Shaurya

    #2
    1) Cat5 to smokes: depends on your local code. Some areas do not allow low voltage types. They require 110 volts with a 14/3 high voltage line going to each one and connected to each other. Better consult your local code authority on that one. This one they WILL check and can black flag your project.2) Yes, run a cat5 (or two) from control panel to all keypad locations. Many keypads use cat5 and not thermo wire as they pass data, not just higher voltage.

    3) Think you are ok - find out what power requirements and control requirements (Pan / tilt?) that the camera you want to use has and wire accordingly.

    4) Garage door state detection and up / down control, motion detectors, exteriour motion, exteriour siren, run tons of RG6 for satellite tv, antenna for XMRadio, gees - this list could go on and on...

    5) most door strikers are either 12 volt (decent amperage) or 110 volt. I think there are two for sale in the classifieds here.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by smoothtlk
      1) Cat5 to smokes: depends on your local code. Some areas do not allow low voltage types. They require 110 volts with a 14/3 high voltage line going to each one and connected to each other. Better consult your local code authority on that one. This one they WILL check and can black flag your project..
      Thanks smoothtlk for your response. My area requires 110 volts sensors. And electrican has installed 3-4 of them. These low voltage is on top of the 110volts that is going to be monitored along with security by the Monitoring company like Brinks etc. My questions here was from technical perspective. Is technically I can use Cat5 for Smoke/fire sensors? Sorry for misunderstanding.

      For RG6 in Family, I am not worried as I can put as Many as I want. Yeas I will now put 1-2 aditinal runs of RG6 in Master Now. Thanks for the feedback. For Garage Door also I am not concerend as I have attac access to run wires comfortably down the line.

      For door strike, does the Cat5 terminates inside the door or on the door frame. Sorry for this dumb questions. Will check the classified.

      For outdoor montions sensors, I believe the Cat5 I have put with RG6 will have some pairs left over for hooking up the sensor.

      Thanks again for your valuable input. Truly appreicate it.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by shaurya
        For door strike, does the Cat5 terminates inside the door or on the door frame. Sorry for this dumb questions.
        Shaurya,

        I'd recommend you don't run Cat5 for your door strikes and use something higher guage. Most electronic door strikes run at 12v or 24v DC (some are AC) and can draw up to 1amp while in use. I use 2-strand 16AWG for all my door locks... sounds like you are using this for speakers, so you may already have some on hand?

        For electronic door strikes, the wire should terminate in the door frame near the door latch as this is where the strike will be installed. You don't need to run wires into the door unless you are using electronic door locks which require power at the door know itself.

        Sounds like you're making great progress!

        Paul

        Click to visit: www.sbsmarthomes.com
        Santa Barbara Smarthomes

        Authorized Russound Dealer & Installer

        Personal HA Website

        HomeSeer User Profile

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks Paul. Truly appreciate your help. Your response is a big morale booster.

          Any other suggestions for any forum members please? !!!!

          Comment


            #6
            Are you zoning your smokes together or separately? If you're zoning separately CAT5 wire should work fine. But if you are tying a bunch in series with long runs, you may want to use something a little heavier gauge.

            Matt

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by MBenzo
              Are you zoning your smokes together or separately? If you're zoning separately CAT5 wire should work fine. But if you are tying a bunch in series with long runs, you may want to use something a little heavier gauge.

              Matt
              Thanks Matt, that really helped. I am not doing it in Series. They are all parallel home runs. Great that I can use Cat5. Thanks again.

              Any further suggestions on my prewiring layout from anyone is highly welcomed!!!

              Shaurya

              Comment


                #8
                What kind of alarm panel are you going to be using? You may want to do some extra 22-2 wire runs for automation speakers, etc.

                Also, I think if I were going to build a new house (some might call this overkill), I would definately run some extra 22-2 for interior door contact sensors. I would use them more for automation purposes rather than security though.
                Martin Custer

                Comment


                  #9
                  Hello Martin, Glad that you joined the thread.
                  Originally posted by AutomatedOutlet
                  What kind of alarm panel are you going to be using?
                  I am debating b/w ELK M1 Gold and HAI OmniPROII. As I still have 3-4 months out before I move in, I am learing all the pros and cons b/w the 2. Went to automatedoutlet.com and price on M1 package is really a compelling one...
                  Originally posted by AutomatedOutlet
                  You may want to do some extra 22-2 wire runs for automation speakers, etc.
                  If you are referring to speakers for the announcements from HS for TTS etc, I am planning to use CAV and put the computer out as one of the sources of CAV. I believe that can accomplish the speaker swithching etc as well with some programming.
                  Originally posted by AutomatedOutlet
                  I would definately run some extra 22-2 for interior door contact sensors. I would use them more for automation purposes rather than security though.
                  This is interesting. Never thought about it. Can you please provide some insight onthing like potenial use etc as I am not able to visualize its use. Experienced forum members please help me here answeiring why would I need something like this.

                  Thank you for your continued support and guidance. Shaurya

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yeah, they are both good panels. We'll probably have the HAI ones in stock too. I'm going to HAI training on Wednesday so I'll learn more about that one as well.

                    As far as the extra contacts, you know, if you are going to be allowed to run some of these yourself, the contacts are only $2 each and the wire is dirt cheap so I figure it can't hurt.

                    There are probably a lot of things you could do as far as lighting automation. In my existing house, I don't have this but I do have some in the garage and in the door going from the garage into the laudry room. It's nice, when I go in my side garage door, the light in the garage turns on and when I open the door from the garage into the laudry room, the garage light turns off and the laudry room light turns on.

                    I can also see applications for babysitters in the house. When you don't want them to go into certain areas when you're gone.

                    There are probably a ton of things you will think of later that might come in handy.

                    People on this board also frequently talk about sensors for cabinets, etc.

                    If I were building a new house, I'd put them everywhere - even if I never use some of them. They are one of those things that's cheap to do up front but very expensive later if you have to go to wireless devices that cost $35 - $50 each for the better stuff.
                    Martin Custer

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Shaurya,
                      One thing I would do for sure is run some flexable or PVC conduit to allow future additions. I just finished a major house project and ran some flexable conduit between strategic places and I have already used some of it. You never know what new stuff will enter tha market, be prepared.

                      Gardner

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by shaurya
                        This is interesting. Never thought about it. Can you please provide some insight onthing like potenial use etc as I am not able to visualize its use.
                        Martin had some good ideas. Another may be to turn on the bathroom light when the door closes, or closet lights (if the doors get closed when not in use). Lots of potential uses that you may not think about until years down the road. And if you never use them, you're only out a few bucks.

                        Matt

                        Comment


                          #13
                          $2? wow, now I am going to have to dig even more into your site to find these. this could greatly help HA in my layout

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Here is where you can find the 10 packs for $19.99 - http://www.automatedoutlet.com/produ...&cat=97&page=2
                            Martin Custer

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by gcyeaw
                              Shaurya,
                              One thing I would do for sure is run some flexable or PVC conduit to allow future additions. I just finished a major house project and ran some flexable conduit between strategic places and I have already used some of it. You never know what new stuff will enter tha market, be prepared.
                              Gardner
                              I have tried to convince my builder to do it. As this is a production house, not a custom home, so not much scope here. Also this being in Houston, we don't get basement. Its a slab foundation on the 1st floor. I will try again to convince my builder.
                              Thanks again for your suggestion.
                              Originally posted by MBenzo
                              Martin had some good ideas. Another may be to turn on the bathroom light when the door closes, or closet lights (if the doors get closed when not in use). Lots of potential uses that you may not think about until years down the road. And if you never use them, you're only out a few bucks.
                              Again this being the production house, I have to talk and convince the Security person to put the sensors at the inside door. If they don't then i am out of luck and have to rely on some kind of wireless sensor. Again thanks for the idea.

                              Truly appreciate all the help and feedbacks. Any further suggestions for anyone is highly appreciated.

                              Shaurya

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X