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CM11A vrs USB Interface

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    CM11A vrs USB Interface

    Does the USB Interface provide greater reliability
    than the standard CM11A / 12 ?
    0
    USB is almost problem free less than 1 failure per year.
    0%
    0
    USB interface is very stable... Powerline carrier is not any real problem.
    0%
    0
    USB interface is no issue probably the O/S is a greater point of problem.
    0%
    0
    CM11 still has good stability just a few errors per year.
    0%
    0
    CM11A is most stable at 1 error or less per year (power company has more blinks that CM11A has problems and locks).
    0%
    0
    HS3 Standard Edition 3.0.0.258

    #2
    I'm really interested in the results of this poll, but I'm afraid it's weighted by the fact that so many of us have CM11A, and so few of us have PowerLinc-USB.

    Comment


      #3
      I have been using the same $5 Cm11A that I bought on clearence from Radio Shack for over 5 years. And the one before that lasted several years before a lightning strike took it out. I also have never had a CM11A lock up. One nice benifit to the other device is the fact that it is USB if your out of com ports.

      -Rupp
      Isn't Disney World a people trap operated by a mouse?
      -Rupp
      sigpic

      Comment


        #4
        It's one of the most stable parts of my HA setup. In my opinion dedicated serial ports are more stable than USB devices. Don't know the technical behind it but my experiece over the years has shown much more frustration with USB devices locking.
        HS3 Prod - Win10 - DSC - HVAC-GC-TBZ48 x3 - CurrentCost - BLRadar - RFXCOM/FRXTRX433 -ADIO - HSTOUCH - BLUPS - AB8SS - SONOS - Alexa - 1 wire - BlueIris -MyQ

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          #5
          I used the IBM version of the CM11A (75H8381) from 1997 until 2002. It had no batteries and required the PC to remain on. NEVER had a glitch with it unless the PC choaked. CM11A has had the same great track record. Only reason I MAY switch to the USB version is to free up COM ports (NetCallerID vs BetaBrite vs Palm Cradle vs...) It's probably cheaper just to add extra COM ports than more USB ports AND the USB Interface.

          Anyone still have or use their old CP-290? GE HomeMinder?

          Rob
          .

          Comment


            #6
            I have both, and the USB Powerlinc is far more stable (actually, it runs perfect) than my CM11a, which did serve many good years.

            HSPRO 2.4 (ESXi 4.1) | my.Alert NEW | my.Trigger | HSTouch | ACRF2 | UltraM1G | BLWeather | BLLan | Rover
            (aka xplosiv)
            Do You Cocoon? Home Automation News, Tutorials, Reviews, Forums & Chat

            Comment


              #7
              I have been having problems dimming devices with my powerlinc USB however on/off works flawlessly. Do you know if there are any differences between dim and on/off commands that would allow the interface to send one and not the other? Has your powerlinc USB been trouble free?

              Comment


                #8
                No problems at all, and I dim on a daily basis (living room lights come on slowly when it gets dark). Does the dimming work when using a remote control such as the palmpad? Are you using the latest version of the plugin?

                HSPRO 2.4 (ESXi 4.1) | my.Alert NEW | my.Trigger | HSTouch | ACRF2 | UltraM1G | BLWeather | BLLan | Rover
                (aka xplosiv)
                Do You Cocoon? Home Automation News, Tutorials, Reviews, Forums & Chat

                Comment


                  #9
                  I just installed plug in about two weeks ago when I first started using HS. I will check to ensure it is the latest version. Yes the devices all dim when commands are issued from other sources, table top controllers, RF to a TW523, and even a CP290 that's still kicking. The lines have a passive phase coupler and should be noise free since all lighting circuits are isolated and boosted with compose firewalls.

                  Scott

                  [This message was edited by shersh on Thu, 30 October 2003 at 04:21 PM.]

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I finally sorted out my problem. As I suspected The circuit with the HS computer that was supposed to be outside the firewall did share a common neutral with the lighting circuits. Noise was bleeding into the line so I added a filter on my UPS power supply for the HS computer problem solved. I will go back and land the circuit inside the firewall since pulling a second neutral now is not possible. One peculiarity though. When I plug my USB interface in dim commands from a table top controller get much slower. You can watch each step as the lamp dims. Without the interface every works normally. Any ideas?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I have USB powerlinc and X10 wall switches, when they are dimmed they come on full bright then go dim - is this normal or is there someway to make them come on from dim to bright? And yes I have checked to make sure the "check box" for "Full Bright 1st" is cleared.

                      Otherwise I have no complaints about my USB powerlinc - works like it should.
                      Bruce

                      "The universal answer is 42."

                      Comment


                        #12
                        You have to spend some pretty serious bucks to get a switch that will turn on to a certain dim level. Look at smarthome.com and they have a really good spread sheet on their switches and weather they support preset dim.

                        -Rupp
                        Isn't Disney World a people trap operated by a mouse?
                        -Rupp
                        sigpic

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Yeah most newbies are shocked to find out the down side of cheap X-10 switches and lack of status.

                          John
                          John

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Well I figured that it was the "cheap" switch - lucky most of the time I don't need preset dim - if I do I will spend the bux to get a decent one. Mostly just use on/off. I think I only have 3 or 4 fixtures I would like to preset dim.

                            Thanks.
                            Bruce

                            "The universal answer is 42."

                            Comment


                              #15
                              <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Bruce L:
                              I have X10 wall switches, when they are dimmed they come on full bright then go dim - is this normal or is there someway to make them come on from dim to bright?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

                              X10Pro light modules will allow you to dim directly to a user-defined setting without full bright first.

                              - SPYguy
                              ... You must be the change you wish to see in the world - Gandhi

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