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    #31
    David - I saw that acticle in Family Handyman and bought some of these hockey puck 20V halogens. I have not yet got them installed but have tested them with lamp modules on the line feeding the transformer and they work ok. I wondered if the lamp modules would die quick so I ran wires up into attic and installed 110V outlets up there for lamp modules to plug into. That way I can later upgrade to a better switch if I need to.

    The halogen light package says they can be dimmed with a rheostat dimmer so I figure it's safe to use x10 ones.

    Bruce

    Only 2 things are infinite - the universe & human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the universe. A. Einstein
    Bruce

    "The universal answer is 42."

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      #32
      In your picture of your deck I noticed that your lights are extremely straight. What did you use to connect the rope lights to the deck. I used the connectors that came with my rope lights but there weren't enough to keep it as straight as yours. Any suggestions as to an alternate connector source?

      -Rupp



      {{{{{{{{{{ Remember the reason for the season }}}}}}}}}}
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        #33
        Rupp, My deck lights are almost identical to AJ's (his might be just a hair straighter )
        I drilled through the posts (3/4" if I remember) and then used the clips that came with the lights to clip them under the handrail mid span (2 between each post). The key was to make sure the cross drill holes were very close to the underside of the handrail. I used a 2 foot electricians auger so the drill chuck wasn't an issue to get in the way of the handrail.

        I have also seen extra hangers in HomeDepot for rope lights. Seems folks are now using rope lights for holiday lighting too.

        [This message was edited by DavidL on Tue, 16 December 2003 at 08:07 PM.]

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          #34
          I'll check for more hangers.

          -Rupp


          {{{{{{{{{{ Remember the reason for the season }}}}}}}}}}

          [This message was edited by Rupp on Wed, 17 December 2003 at 08:34 AM.]
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            #35
            I also have rope lights surrounding my deck. I found plastic track that keeps them REALLY straight: Plastic Track

            Jim

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              #36
              <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Rupp:
              In your picture of your deck I noticed that your lights are extremely straight. What did you use to connect the rope lights to the deck. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I was just really anal about putting them up. I too, used the clips that come in the box. At first, I spaced them about 6 rungs apart - way too far, caused sagging. I then tried 4 and didn't like that either. I ended up putting those damn clips on every other post. I had extra clips left over from the one that's in the kitchen.

              But now that I see Jim's straight track, that seems better. But, it also seems a little expensive to me - 2.50 / 4' - the track would end up costing more than the light! I briefly looked at their other products, which also seemed a little high, so maybe there's a better source.

              --------------
              -=A.J. Griglak

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                #37
                The rope light I bought at Sam's is much larger in diameter than the rope lights that Lowe's and Home Depot sell. Maybe that's why Sam's had it so cheap.

                -Rupp


                {{{{{{{{{{ Remember the reason for the season }}}}}}}}}}
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                  #38
                  <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> The halogen light package says they can be dimmed with a rheostat dimmer so I figure it's safe to use x10 ones.
                  <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

                  Wow, they haven't made rheostat dimmers in 60 years. Also, if it says to use with a rheostat, then an X10, or any other triac based dimmer, probably won't work.

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                    #39
                    aww - now you're just making fun of me , so that I can learn - what is the diff between a rheostat and current standard (non x10) dimmers ?

                    Anyway it says Dimmable on the package and they dim on the test bench with a lamp module.

                    Bruce

                    Only 2 things are infinite - the universe & human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the universe. A. Einstein
                    Bruce

                    "The universal answer is 42."

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                      #40
                      Rheostat dimmers used to insert a variable resistance in series with incandacent lighting to make a voltage divider and effectively dim the light. But, as Ohm's law predicts, a resistor in series with a bulb dissipates a lot of power. Does anyone remember carbon piles and salt water tanks?

                      Back on topic... I've found that low voltage halogen lights with electronic transformers only dim reliably with "inductive" X-10 dimmers (which is nothing more then a standard dimmer with the Neutral wire brought out). I would expect any modern dimmer with a Neutral wire to also work. My experience is that the "electronic" transformers are quite unreliable... especially the rectangular ones that come with the hockey puk style under-counter lights. I switched to 120VAC puks to resolve that issue but the bulbs are quite fragile. Drop them and you will break the filament inside. Otherwise, they are quite nice.

                      I love the rope light too. I lit a china cabinet with these... Awsome! Had to put the dimmer in the basement because that was the only way to snake the wire into the cabinet. Inconvient? Not with X-10!!!

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                        #41
                        <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by d-smes:
                        Back on topic... I've found that low voltage halogen lights with electronic transformers only dim reliably with "inductive" X-10 dimmers (which is nothing more then a standard dimmer with the Neutral wire brought out). I would expect any modern dimmer with a Neutral wire to also work. My experience is that the "electronic" transformers are quite unreliable... especially the rectangular ones that come with the hockey puk style under-counter lights. I switched to 120VAC puks to resolve that issue but the bulbs are quite fragile. Drop them and you will break the filament inside. Otherwise, they are quite nice.
                        <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I can't understand why everyone is going through the hassle of these undercabinet lights with transformers and they can't be dimmed. The system I talked about is a lot cheaper, no transformers and can be dimmed like any regular lamp. Is there any benefit to having the complicated system you guys are talking about?

                        --------------
                        -=A.J. Griglak

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                          #42
                          Another use for rope lights. I put these around the cabinet base of the bar in my basement. They're plugged into a lamp module behind the fridge. A great effect for less than $20.00.
                          Attached Files

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                            #43
                            When a lamp burns out in a ropelight, a section of the rope burns out, and you can't replace them. You have to replace the whole length. And halogens or similar are typically more directional with a different look.

                            - Gordon

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                            | - Gordon

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                              #44
                              <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Gordon Cunningham:
                              When a lamp burns out in a ropelight, a section of the rope burns out, and you can't replace them. You have to replace the whole length. And halogens or similar are typically more directional with a different look.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>No, I wasn't referring to the rope lights. I was referring to my halogen undercabinet lights that do not require a transformer, they simply plug-in. They can be dimmed also.

                              As for the rope lights, even if one bulb does blow out, it only costs $8 to replace it...

                              --------------
                              -=A.J. Griglak

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