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    3-Way Lighting circuits

    I have numerous 3-way and 4-way ciruits in my home, and on most don't require local dimming control. For the majority if the circuits, I have gone with the X10Pro PLW02 3-way switch module. In my dining room I do require local dimming (WAF) and I went with the X10 Powerhouse RWS17 with the RWS19 companion switch.

    Now here's my problem: Due to the wall plate requirements (Deco vs toggle) I need to use the RWS19 companion with the PLW02 and vice versa. It appears that the RWS19 works with PLW02, but I am unable to get the RWS 17 to work with the PCW03 Companion switch. I may be doing something wrong, but I was wondering if anyone else has tried this configuration??

    Thanks

    #2
    OK, I understand now. You faked me out at first mentioning the RWS17. I believe that's an old part number for the X10 WS12A switch.

    Now, on to your question. First of all, I would probably standardize on one type of wall switch style. What is the reason for using the PLW02 in some areas and the WS12A in others? They both have a very different look. I know my wife would kill me if I did that (she'd probably like the excuse!).

    If you really did want to use both, you can get wall plates at any Home Depot type store that will accomodate both styles on the same switch.

    I really wouldn't mix companions switches to master switches that aren't recommended. It might work, but it also might burn your house down. I really don't think it's worth experimenting like that.

    Decide on the style you like and stick with it. There's not more than $2 price difference in the two switches you are talking about.

    The PLW02 switch that includes a companion switch is $18

    A WS12A and a companion switch is $20.

    Martin Custer
    Martin@AutomatedOutlet.com
    www.AutomatedOutlet.com
    Authorized HomeSeer Distributor
    Martin Custer

    Comment


      #3
      The reason for the different types of switches is complicated, but I'll try to explain.

      1st - Wife hates the Deco style switches (do I need to go any further)

      2nd - I am trying then to replace all switches in toggle or switch style.

      3rd - the PLW02 does not allow local dimming.

      4th - the only inexpensive local dimmers are Deco style

      As I only need one local dimmer, I decided to just make that the exception.

      Now the problem comes up in the kitchen. I have a four gang switch box, one of the switches controlling a 4-way circuit and another for the florencent kitch light (once again only Deco). I have also decided to put in a six button keypad here as this is the exit point from the house, thru the garage. Nobody carries a four gang trim plate with two Deco's and two toggles. It is special order with a six week delivery. Therefore my dilema with mixing switches.

      FYI - they do all work together, I found the difficulty in that there appear to be a little toggle switch under neath the RWS17 for on and off and with my outdated bi-focals, I appeared to miss it...Only three days of trouble shooting

      Oh Well...Thanks for input anyways.

      Comment


        #4
        One idea, although I haven't tried it, is to do the modification to the WS467 switch (your PLW02 should be the same) to allow local dimming to the switch.

        Again, I haven't done this but I understand it works:

        The WS467 wall switch module has a local on/off pushbutton switch and a slide button to lock it off. The light it controls can normally be dimmed only from a remote X10 transmitter. Performing this modification will allow the light to be dimmed by using the pushbutton switch.

        1. Make sure the switch is functioning properly before starting.

        2. Using a small screwdriver, press down on the tabs at the four corners of the back cover, and pop the cover off. Be careful not to break the tabs.

        3. Solder a small piece of #28 or #30 AWG insulated (wire wrap) wire from U1 pin 7 to the anode of the diode at the end of U1. The arrow in the following drawing points to the wire to add:


        4. Replace the back cover.

        5. Install the switch in the wall, and test normal operations (local on/off control, remote on/off/dim control, and the function of the cutoff switch).

        6. Finally, test the local dimming function: Press and hold the button on the switch. The light will come on, and then slowly cycle through a bright-to-dim-to-bright sequence. Release the button when the desired level of lighting is achieved. A quick tap on the button will turn the light on and off.

        Martin Custer
        Martin@AutomatedOutlet.com
        www.AutomatedOutlet.com
        Authorized HomeSeer Distributor
        Martin Custer

        Comment


          #5
          For the flourescent switch in the kitchen, you might need to break down and get a toggle switch to get a non-decora style switch - http://automatedoutlet.com/html/lighting_19.html

          Not as cheap as the PLW02s but still only $35

          Martin Custer
          Martin@AutomatedOutlet.com
          www.AutomatedOutlet.com
          Authorized HomeSeer Distributor
          Martin Custer

          Comment


            #6
            Some one please educate me.
            Why do people use all the 2/3/4 way switches?.

            Why not a single receiver switch (with diming) and then a bunch of trnsmitter switches that can put out a dim/bright command in addition to on off. They make those don't they? I very rarely use dimmers, and for the 2 way on off I just use normal switches and transmitters.

            Comment


              #7
              Hi Barry,

              Yes, that will work as well. I actually use a combination of the two in my house. I really like to disconnect the slave switches and put in the transmit only KeypadLinks.

              I think he was looking for a cheap toggle or push button switch though.

              Martin Custer
              Martin@AutomatedOutlet.com
              www.AutomatedOutlet.com
              Authorized HomeSeer Distributor
              Martin Custer

              Comment


                #8
                Barry,

                As far as why people do it, a couple of reasons. One, some people like to leave the wiring in it's original state so if they sell the house, they could take the lighting control with them (a lot of work in my mind). Secondly, usually slave switches are a lot cheaper than transmitters.

                Martin Custer
                Martin@AutomatedOutlet.com
                www.AutomatedOutlet.com
                Authorized HomeSeer Distributor
                Martin Custer

                Comment

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