Best Solution for an Electronic Entry Door System

[Cyber-Wizard]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Gordon Cunningham:
There are also pro electromagnetic systems that install in the frame and door that aren't very noticable. One manufacturer:

http://www.sdcsecurity.com/newsite/h...lectricls.html

Note they aren't cheap... <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The largest drawback to using electromags on residential doors (apart from the size) is that those mags are designed for use on outswinging doors. Most residential applications have inswinging doors and require some seriously butt-ugly brackets to allow you to mount the magnet on the secure side of the door. Not good for the WAF at all. One of the questions I get most for residential applications (I'm a geek working for one of SDC's larger rivals) is how to make it attractive. The recommendation that I most make is to use a fail locked electric door strike with a good long faceplate on it (to strengthen the wood frame after you chisel the strike into it) and leave the existing latches in place. This will allow the strike to be released with pretty much anything that you want (relays, keypads, card readers) while still allowing keys to be used. This also saves you from having to worry about current transfer from the hinge side to the latch side of the door. Unfortunately, as strikes won't work with deadbolts, the deadbolt becomes a nice piece of mind item for use as a secondary latch at night when you're in the house.

I love the idea of the powerbolt units with battery power and keypad/IR activation from the outside but the WAF went right down the tubes when she saw that box the mounts on the inside to hold the batteries.

UPDATE
Sorry Gordon, I just noticed that you're referring to the frame mount mortise style lock that operate in shear as the door opens. You're quite right, those should be swell in a residential door as far as concealment goes. The kicker there is that those locks generally have pins or clamps or some manner of moving part that allows the lock to seat when closed. These are happiest when they're installed in conjunction with a centering door closer, which also has a poor WAF factor. Those slimline SDC frame mount units would probably look pretty sweet once they were cut in and tweaked up nice.

[anogee]

I'm going to take the proximity plung. I just ordered a proximity system (RK600 from this company http://www.securakey.com/ ) The keys work up to about 6" from the keypad, but they also have another reader that can read the same keys up to about 30"

For my lock I'm going with an electric deadbolt, fail-safe. I debated fail-safe or fail-secure. I think I determinded that it would be best to use a power supply with a 12V 8AH battery as a backup in any case.

A fail-safe lock will unlock when the power goes out, where a fail-secure lock will stay locked without power but won't unlock. Although I have another exit door around the corner, I have a bigger fear of being locked in during a fire, than I do of being robbed during a power outage. In any case, the battery should keep the door locked for at least 8 hours of outage, and thats enough for me.

I'm hooking my lock and keypad both up to my HAI panel, which HomeSeer can control, so HomeSeer can add some logic (unlock door during a fire alarm) etc.

Total price? We'll this is not the cheapest solution, but I think it is one of the most flexible and best. Reader is about $170, 12V backup and battery about $40, deadbolt $125.
WAF when she just holds her purse up to the keypad to unlock the door? Priceless.

[pkoslow]

Anogee,

I think I may have 1 or 2 extra fail-safe deadbolts. If you are interested let me know and maybe I can save you a few bucks. They are still new in the box.

Cheers,
Paul

[anogee]

Paul:

Sure, what type are they? I've been thinking about doing other doors as well.

[pkoslow]

I'll check tonight to find out how many I have left. I know they are fail-safe, but can't remember if they are 12v or 24v. I picked them up at a local locksmiths where I purchased a bunch of my electronic Schlage locksets, but they look exactly like the ones at Smarthome shown below:



SmartHome electric deadbolt

Paul

[pkoslow]

anogee,

I do have two of these as well as a battery backed-up power supply you might be interested in... I didn't see an email in your profile.

Please contact me if you're still interested.
paul@pksweb.com



Cheers,
Paul

[MikeWis]

Geneva Dude wrote:

The only think I don't like about the product is the keypad. It's recessed and a bit small for adult fingers.

I too had this problem and notice the New Power Bolts at Menards had the rasied keyboard. I called Weiser and they said I could change out my existing pad and replace with the raised buttons for $10.00 . I ordered one and changed it out. Took all of 5 minutes to change.

[nnyeh]

I am looking into the MKM 2500AR digital dead bolt. Here is the URL,http://www.mkmlock.com/s2/s2_02_02.htm.
It has selectable auto (simply close the door)or manual lock. And it has REMOTE OPEN FUNCTION (WIRE TYPE). The following paragraph is quoted from the wendor website.
"This is a very convenient function for opening the door using the remote control by video-door-phone of home-automation wiring.
☞ It can be using remote door open by 2 pin wire to connect form H.A terminal at the board of product to video phone door switch or home automation switch (by short and off type only)".
It also comes with the remote control to lock/unlock. it costs about $200.

[anogee]

O.K. I've finally finished installing one door at least. Sorry I didn't get back to you pkoslow about the deadbolts, but I had one already, and it was so much work, I'm going to hold off on any more for the time being.

Anyway, my wife and I like the system. She can just wave her keys by the RFID reader and it unlocks the door. Actually the reader is connected to my HAI system, which sends the signal to unlock the door. I could add extra logic in there in the future if I want.

Inside I use just an "EXIT" button connected directly to the lock. I use a "fail-safe" deadbolt with a battery backup box above the door on the inside. I didn't want to run my inside "Exit" switch to the panel for fire reasons. I wanted the exit button to work, panel malfuction or not. Should the power go out, I have at least 24 hours of lock time. I also have the door unlock should the fire alarm go off, and I built some macros for my panel to allow me to unlock it for longer periods if desired.

I just ordered a second RFID keypad for outside to open my garage. This way I can give the neighbors their own keybob. They can use it to get in the garage, then use it again to turn off the alarm and get in the house, all without ever having to give them a password to our alarm. They also have a way to rearm the system with their keyfob when they leave.

Even better, I can activate or deactivate any keyfob at anytime, and I can even open my garage door, shut off the alarm and unlock the door, all with HomeSeer on the Internet.


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[daudish]

I don't have one myself but it certainly looks promising:

http://www.letsautomate.com/10483.cfm
http://www.visonictech.com/info_page.asp?info_id=363

I remember seeing one on eBay for about $170

[sdanks]

GDude,
How are you planning on routing the wire from the hinge side of the door to the lock and keep the WAF?

I have a drill bit that is about 5 feet long for running wires inside walls. You could drill all the way from the deadbolt through the center of the door and out the side near the hinges. I have a metal front door, but it is hollow inside with insulation, so you could drill through from each side and then it would be easy to keep the drill inside the door. Then if you only need two wires, use the hinges as the wires. Otherwise, they do make "door cords" for the old tape on the glass breakage sensors for commercial doors.

[anogee]

daudish:

Yes, I have seen that unit, but Worthington carries the Secura-Key unit for about $160. I've seen it list for up to about $450 other places. The keypad on the Secura-Key unit is a big advantage because you can program it without a programmer, AND, you can use a PIN to enter as well. If I go in my garage, but forget my Keyfob, its nice to no be locked out.

[pmonahan]

This might work for your access control

For the benefit of those who subscribe to this thread, bit have not seen our post on RFID and Homeseer, please see.

http://board.homeseer.com/showthread...highlight=RFID

This is proven technology that we have adapated for HA use. It is NOT 2.4 Ghz as in most systems where the tag has to be "awakened", rather the tags are ACTIVE, we are getting prepared for beta test of the plugin.

Round 2 of the beta test will take advantage of a built-in motion sensor in a new model tag. In this regard, we will not only be able to tell you that the tag is detected or leaves the field of the reader, but if it is Moving.

Thanks

Peter