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Dimmable Compact Fluorescent Experiment Over Time

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    #31
    You need BR30's

    Originally posted by Steve Q View Post
    I'm a bit disappointed in the Compact flourescents (Sylvania 65W replacements) I purchased. They are bright enough, they certainly use less energy (only 16W) but they are not the same size as a normal 65W flood. They are "longer" therefore they stick out of the fixture more. Some can lights have an adjustable bulb holder position; but I have "eyeball" fixtures and the bulb socket is not adjustable.

    Does anyone know if other brands are exactly the same dimensions as a standard 65W PAR30 flood or spotlight bulb?

    Steve Q
    Steve,

    I had the same problem on my eyeball fixtures, and found the Philips BR30 base. The par38's are longer, and good for straight recessed fixtures. The BR30's work well in eyeball fixtures.

    Here's a link:

    http://www.nam.lighting.philips.com/...lay.php?mode=3
    Madcodger

    This would be a lot easier if I knew what I was doing...

    Comment


      #32
      Originally posted by George View Post
      Not sure which protocol is being discussed (X10-Zwave-UPB) but a quick question. But, are the dimable CF bulbs being discussed here X10 (Levaton 6381 style) compatible? No buzzing of the bulb or burning out of the triac in the 6381?

      That's the main reason I have only used CF bulbs on normal open/closed light switches and only on appliance modules.

      If the new CF's are 6381...etc complaint, I can replace a lot more bulbs (probably 80% of the lights in my home)!

      Thanks,
      George
      I don't know how well they work on X10, but I'm using Insteon with triacs and they work well.
      Madcodger

      This would be a lot easier if I knew what I was doing...

      Comment


        #33
        I went to Home Depot today. And found not a single CF that said it was dimmable. I'll try Lowes tomorrow.

        Comment


          #34
          Originally posted by George View Post
          I went to Home Depot today. And found not a single CF that said it was dimmable. I'll try Lowes tomorrow.
          I wonder if it's a regional thing, or a test. I've purchased 32 from them (updating my log in the first post now) and have been very happy. As it turns out, I haven't found any at our local Lowes.

          Joe
          Madcodger

          This would be a lot easier if I knew what I was doing...

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by George View Post
            I went to Home Depot today. And found not a single CF that said it was dimmable. I'll try Lowes tomorrow.
            Same here in So. Cal - No dimmable CFs. In fact the brand they carried wasn't phillips but some other brand.
            James

            Running HS 3 on Win10 .

            Comment


              #36
              Dimmable CF are not as energy efficient as non-dimmable ones, so you don't get something for nothing. They likely aren't in CA because CA has strict rules on efficency of lighting.

              I think a better idea instead of dimmable CF is just use regular ones in all fixtures except ones you regularly dim. In those, use regular bulbs. I do this in my house and about 85% are CF, the rest, incandescent.

              Comment


                #37
                Anogee,

                My ratio is exactly the opposite. I have about 85% of my house on X10 6381/83 style dimmers with the rest on regular switches. The ones on regular switches are in areas we hardly ever go anyway, like the attic switch, etc. Putting CF in the attic where I may turn it on every 2 years doesn't make much sense.

                That's why I was looking for the dimable ones for the rest of the switches. Whether you dim them or not, if they are on a dimable circuit you need the dimable ones of they will flicker and buzz.

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by Madcodger View Post
                  Steve,

                  I had the same problem on my eyeball fixtures, and found the Philips BR30 base. The par38's are longer, and good for straight recessed fixtures. The BR30's work well in eyeball fixtures.

                  Here's a link:

                  http://www.nam.lighting.philips.com/...lay.php?mode=3
                  Madcodger,

                  Thanks for the info.

                  Steve Q
                  HomeSeer Version: HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.368, Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 - Home, Number of Devices: 373, Number of Events: 666, Enabled Plug-Ins
                  2.0.83.0: BLRF, 2.0.10.0: BLUSBUIRT, 3.0.0.75: HSTouch Server, 3.0.0.58: mcsXap, 3.0.0.11: NetCAM, 3.0.0.36: X10, 3.0.1.25: Z-Wave,Alexa,HomeKit

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Another observation on Dimmable's

                    I don't think its brand specific, can't remember mine anyways...but it would behoove one to get a Dimmable that has as low as a starting dim point as possible, especially when a light bulb is used in multiple light fixture like a ceiling fan or decorative fixture.

                    I have a ceiling fan with 5 bulbs...I used 5 dimmable's with ballasts that start at 20% dim. However, when in a group, you barely notice that the light dims, due to the amount of cumalitave light I guess.

                    I thought they were broken...so I did a test on a regular lamp, and lo and behold, you can definitely notice the 20% dim on up.

                    I guess the point is, if you don't have a low dim start %, its very hard to see a noticable dimming effect in multiple light fixtures.

                    Comment


                      #40
                      George:

                      My ratio is exactly the opposite. I have about 85% of my house on X10 6381/83 style dimmers with the rest on regular switches. The ones on regular switches are in areas we hardly ever go anyway, like the attic switch, etc. Putting CF in the attic where I may turn it on every 2 years doesn't make much sense.
                      I don't think there is a right or wrong answer here. Do what works best for you. I live in Phoenix, where regular bulbs not only draw more power, but they generate extra heat my AC must remove.

                      I'm definitely not a lighting designer, but the trend I see to save power isn't more dimmable lights, but more lights in total. Of course more lights cost more to install. Rather than one or two dimmable lights in a room, I've tried to make my house so that I have many lighting options per room. Maybe task lights, can lights, pendent lights, lamps, and spot lights. With UPB or other technologies, its easy to control many lights with only a few presses. Since I have many light choices in each room, its not so important to be able to dim any one light, and I can use different size CF in different fixtures. Some are bright, some not so bright.

                      I think that if you really find the need to have many dimmable lights, its because you don't have enough lights, and you might be expecting the lights you have to play many different roles instead of using many lights for many roles.

                      Comment


                        #41
                        I agree with Anogee on this one.

                        In my entertainment room (cross between Living Room and Home Theater), I have 2 large Halogen Spots, 4 tiny spots, 2 fan fixtures with 3 bulbs each.

                        With all those lights, you can get enough light to paint in the dark. However, for various situations, I use various combinations of those. I think I want to change the Fans over to CF (I was considering LED, but can't fine a suitable replacement). I don't need dimable. So, as the main light we use is the fan fixture that is over the couch (puts the LCD TV in the dark which looks great!), RIGHT now there are 3 bulbs in there. 2 60s and a 100. That's 220Watts (plus 2-4 watts for the triac in the X-10 WS, which will be replaced with UPB soon) being used daily. To change that over to CFs, would save good $$, as that light is used ALL the time.

                        The other light I want to try to replace is the main Halogen in the Front Room. I keep it dimmed on it's own switch, but that's say 60% of 120W. Change that to a CF. Then that's worth it. Move the Halogen to the other side of the room where we read. I think that may work out better due to the Temperature of the Light.

                        --Dan
                        Tasker, to a person who does Homeautomation...is like walking up to a Crack Treatment facility with a truck full of 3lb bags of crack. Then for each person that walks in and out smack them in the face with an open bag.

                        Comment


                          #42
                          I agree with Anogee on this one.
                          You mean you don't always? He He

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Har har!

                            --Dan
                            Tasker, to a person who does Homeautomation...is like walking up to a Crack Treatment facility with a truck full of 3lb bags of crack. Then for each person that walks in and out smack them in the face with an open bag.

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Has onyone tried these Greenlites?

                              http://www.weemscreeksolutions.com/E...FR8iIgod0zdKqw

                              They look fairly inexpensive and have a 2 year unconditional warranty.

                              I noticed that the Lumen output is a little lower than some other manufacturers, but for the price, I dont know if you can beat it.

                              Thanks
                              Ty

                              Comment


                                #45
                                I may have to do some internet ordering. I've checked Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart, Sams Club and others. No one in Columbus, Ohio is selling dimmable CF's.

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