DS10a / Doorbell Interfacing

[afmiller]

www.romperroommc.com/doorbell2.jpg

DS10 is set to min. the magnet is as close as it can get. even if i removed parts, it still won't due to the black part around the transformer

[Raptor]

I also had to go down the relay route. my father who is an electircal engineer was saying it was probably because its an AC voltage the reed switch was vibrating too much (60hz).

he also installed a diode to prevent backflow current.


it has worked very reliably since he installed it for me.

Raptor

[drozwood90]

Mine is 24VAC.

--Dan

[afmiller]

Ok I wasn't able to get a 12v one, but I got a 24v 3pdt relay, how should I go about hooking it up? I have 2x that go to the coil, and 3 poles which has 3 plugs I can hook up the wires to the x10



In the drawing below, I know the far left top and bottom go to the coil. The 3 on the far Right from top to bottom are the normally closed position, but what are the other 2 for the positions?

X....X X X
......X X X
X....X X X

[Wadenut]

Ok I wasn't able to get a 12v one, but I got a 24v 3pdt relay, how should I go about hooking it up? I have 2x that go to the coil, and 3 poles which has 3 plugs I can hook up the wires to the x10



In the drawing below, I know the far left top and bottom go to the coil. The 3 on the far Right from top to bottom are the normally closed position, but what are the other 2 for the positions?

X....X X X
......X X X
X....X X X

Without the specs on the relay it's going to be trial and error. If you have a part number, I can look it up.
First you need to connect the coil to your doorbell, across the terminals which pick up the doorbell. This will tell you whether or not there is sufficient voltage to pick up this relay. It should 'click', or you may see movement inside if it's what we call an "Ice Cube" relay.

The contacts:
You'll only need to deal with only one set of contacts, the top three terminals for instance.
I'm assuming you don't have a Multimeter handy so...
What we need to find is the Normally Closed set. If you're lucky there'll be a diagram printed on the case. Generally, the middle terminal will be common to both the normally open and the normally closed contacts. Normally Closed is the pair which is closed when the relay is not powered. When the relay picks up, the conditions will reverse. If the far right terminal is Normally Closed, this will be easy. Just connect your DS10 to the far right and one of the other two terminals and see if it switches when the relay picks up. If not, try the other terminal. You want the combo that causes the DS10 to go "Alert" when the relay is picked up.

[afmiller]

I actually just got my multimeter in the mail today, so I do have one.

[Wadenut]

OK. Same procedure, just use the meter instead of the DS10. Set the meter to "OHMS". A closed contact will read near Zero Ohms, while an open contact will read Infinity.

Do you have a part number on the relay. It could help us eliminate most of the work.

[afmiller]

NTE electric Inc.

R10-14a10-24

LR90143 is the item

[afmiller]

Ok I metered the relay. Per the x drawing. When I metered the first row, the left and far right ones have almost 0 ohms, and the other combos have infinite ohms.

[reidfo]

Ok then, so either the left or right contact is the common (usually it's the one closest to the coil, so let's assume left). That means that the right contact is your normally closed, and the middle contact is normally open. You can check for sure by energizing the relay (connect the coil across your supply) and check again. If Left-Right show infinite ohms and Left-Middle show ~0 ohms then you've got it. Play around with the meter and with the relay energized and de-energized and you'll get it.

[Wadenut]

Here's your data sheet
http://www.nteinc.com/relay_web/pdf/R10.pdf

On the diagram, you'll see the contacts represented with two arrows pointing toward the Normally Closed pairs of contacts.

That's quite a hefty relay for the purpose at hand.

The specs do say for an AC version the minimum pickup voltage is rated at 85% of nominal, which means you need at least a 20.8 Volt supply for this to work properly. This was why I suggested a 12 Volt relay.

[afmiller]

Only relay they has was the 24v, so I went and bought a multi transformer that has 24v as an option, going to replace it.

[afmiller]

So 3 and 6 are pointing to each other is 3 open and 6 closed? And 9 is the common?

[Wadenut]

1&7, 2&8, 3&9 are your N.C. contacts. Use one of these pairs IF you want the DS10 to ne normally NORMAL and to go ALERT when the doorbell is On (pressed).

4&7, 5&8, 6&9 are N.O. contacts. Use these IF you want the DS10 to be Normally in ALERT, and to become NORMAL when the doorbell is pressed.

7, 8, 9 are Common.

[afmiller]

Thanks a ton wade. 1 more question. I was looking at the coil on the doorbell (pic a few posts back), I realized that it wasn't the transformer. The transformer is downstairs in my basement, and runs low voltage cable up to the coil in the doorbell. Is this how it's suppose to be done? Do I only need to change the transformer in the basement. It should be going 120v to 10-16v right now, but if I replace it, it should be 120->24v. The low voltage cable should handle the voltage cause my furnace c wire does it all the time. But will the coil on the doorbell handle it?