4-Way Switch

[Batboy]

What switches would people recommend purchasing for a z-wave 4-way switch? (3 switches total)

[kaldoon]

What kind of light is on this 3 way switch you are trying to setup - Incandescent, Fluorescent, CFL's, Low-voltage Halogen with electronic or magnetic ballast...

[Batboy]

Uh yeah...

They light a stairwell - 4 incandescent 40 watt bulbs. I use homeseer and have some HomePro z-wave stuff already. The switches are top, middle and bottom of the stairs.

Thanks!

[Wadenut]

The HA20C is supposed to work here.... One HA20C works with any number of slave switches according to the documentation. I'll know for sure on Tuesday when my first batch arrives.

[kaldoon]

If you are using HomePro stuff - the ZDW103 and AS101's would accomplish what your trying to do. The HomeSettings HA14C(paddle) or the HA20C(toggle) switches would also work - the thing with these switches is you don't use an auxiliary switch just a regular(standard) switch. Leviton uses a matching remote (auxiliary) which can have an led or not depending on whether you have a neutral in the box.

[vlepore]

I use several of the Home Pro ZDW103 and AS101's for just this application and they are awesome. The thing I like about these over the Homesettings stuff is programmable ramp rates and things like that. I actually want to change out all of my Z wave switches with the Home Pro ones now that I've got them. They seem like a much more solid product IMO....

[Cheat]

I use several of the Home Pro ZDW103 and AS101's for just this application and they are awesome. The thing I like about these over the Homesettings stuff is programmable ramp rates and things like that. I actually want to change out all of my Z wave switches with the Home Pro ones now that I've got them. They seem like a much more solid product IMO....

Can you [or someone else] explain how you connected your switches?


My configuration prior to install is:

#1 Switch, 3-way, closest to breaker
Line Black (from breaker) - connected to dark screw
Traveler Red - connected to brass Traveler screw
Traveler Black - connected to brass Traveler screw
Neutral White - daisy chained with others
Bare Copper - connected to green screw and daisy chained with others

#2 Switch, 4-way, middle switch
Traveler Red - connected to brass Traveler screw
Traveler Black - connected to brass Traveler screw
Traveler Red - connected to dark Traveler screw
Traveler Black - connected to dark Traveler screw
Neutral White - daisy chained with others
Bare Copper - connected to green screw and daisy chained with others

#3 Switch, 3-way, closest to load/lights
Load Black (to lights) - connected to dark screw
Traveler Red - connected to brass Traveler screw
Traveler Black - connected to brass Traveler screw
Neutral White - daisy chained with others
Bare Copper - connected to green screw and daisy chained with others


When I chart this out...

The following is what I see:

A.) I put the ZRW103 switch closest to the device being powered (load)

B.) Both the first 3-way, which supplies the line power (closest to the breaker) AND the 4-way (always in the middle) both need to be the aux/slave switches

C.) Remove 3-way and Replace w/AS101 (1st switch closest to the breaker)
1.) White/Red Stripe to the "Line" (Black) AND an old Traveler (Black)
2.) Green to Ground (bare copper)
3.) Yellow to the old "traveler" (Red)

My thought process here took the form of... The "Line" power has to be transferred from the first switch to the last switch. So, how does it get there? This is were I think the instructions totally fail. Since the instructions stated the White/Red stripped wire can be connected to the "Line"... BUT, there also needs to be a proprietary Neutral (In my head I changed the term Neutral to Travler and did so in the rest of this post). You CANN'T break the White Neutral in the circuit and still have the power flow. I think it best to continue on thinking proprietary Traveler.

Therefore, the Black Line wire, Black Traveler , and the White/Red wire must be combined; in a wirenut. The old Red Traveler wire became the new "Proprietary Neutral" for the Yellow.

Please tell me this makes since. :: shrug ::

D.) Remove 4-way and Replace w/another AS101 switch
1.) White/Red Stripe to the old Black Travelers (from 1st AND going to 3rd switch)
2.) Green to Ground (bare copper)
3.) Yellow to the old Red Travelers (from 1st AND going to 3rd switch).

E.) At the ZRW103 (last switch to load/light); connect all else like it was a 2-way switch:
1.) Black Traveler to ZRW103's Black Line
2.) White to White (should already be done)
3.) Green to Ground (bare copper)
4.) Red Traveler to ZRW103's Yellow
5.) ZRW103's Blue to the load/lights (normally Black)

Sorry if that was a little painful; however, I've been reading several different threads trying to figure out how to connect the HP ZRW103 and AS101 in a 4-way configuration. I'm not about to hook them up until I have some understanding of the "correct" way. So far I come across threads like the following:
http://board.homeseer.com/showthread...=710459&page=2

http://board.homeseer.com/showthread...switch+install

However, they appear to make thing worse and/or some people say they will get the anwser but no public follow-up.

Just figured if this was correct I'd post my train of thought to help prevent others from beating their heads against a wall.

Please let me (us) know your thoughts...

Thanks,
Chad

NOTE: ZRW103's are ver 2.2

[Guest]

okay a little hard to follow....

but i think i set my homepros up 3way in the same way....

I my line and load in different boxes......

so i needed to use my black traveler as line to the box that just had load.... then i used my red traveler as my yellow data line to connect the two together...
it worked great...

I am no electrician....... so YMMV

a drawing might be easier to follow.....

basically you are using back traveler as line to all 3 switches, red traveler as data (yellow) to all 3 switches and then grounds and load are normal....

right?