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    #16
    Jon

    I looked at that link. The purpose of that upgrade relay board appears to be to improve the reliability of the one originally installed in your hot tub. Have you had any problem with yours? If not, I don't think this will help you much.

    You need to go back to the Hot Springs people again. Tell them you need the "Service manual". Usually it costs a few dollars (maybe $20 or more). A service manual with electrical schematic is what you need. They should have no problem selling it to you. If they say they don't sell it to owners it means they are trying to protect their dealers at your expense. You will then need to contact a dealer for it. If they say they don't make one, its a red flag that they are half assed and you are on your own. In that case you will need some electrical knowledge or help and figure out your controller by visual examination with an ohm meter. This is how I figured mine out, but I'm an electrical engineer so it was not hard for me.

    If you get your schematic (in soft copy form) and can't figure it out I may be able to help you.
    Last edited by Mr Spock; March 7, 2009, 02:35 PM. Reason: added a comment

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      #17
      Originally posted by Mr Spock View Post
      Jon

      I looked at that link. The purpose of that upgrade relay board appears to be to improve the reliability of the one originally installed in your hot tub. Have you had any problem with yours? If not, I don't think this will help you much.

      You need to go back to the Hot Springs people again. Tell them you need the "Service manual". Usually it costs a few dollars (maybe $20 or more). A service manual with electrical schematic is what you need. They should have no problem selling it to you. If they say they don't sell it to owners it means they are trying to protect their dealers at your expense. You will then need to contact a dealer for it. If they say they don't make one, its a red flag that they are half assed and you are on your own. In that case you will need some electrical knowledge or help and figure out your controller by visual examination with an ohm meter. This is how I figured mine out, but I'm an electrical engineer so it was not hard for me.

      If you get your schematic (in soft copy form) and can't figure it out I may be able to help you.
      I have spoken to the dealer again - they are locating a schematic for me. I have also emailed invensys who make the board.

      But - I think I might have a simple solution. I took the panel off and looked at the IC2020. Coming in from the circuit breaker I have a 30 amp circuit and a 20 amp circuit. The 20 amp gets distributed to the IC2020 and the 30 amp goes directly to the water heater. I am thinking that if I put this:

      http://www.smarthome.com/2494S220/Sw...closure/p.aspx

      On the 30 amp circuit, I can kill the power to the heater without affecting the rest of the hot tub.

      What do you think?

      Jon

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        #18
        Yeah, that might work. If the connections are as you say (must confirm with the schematic) then it probably will work. One test is to manually trip the 30A breaker and see if it does what you want, and not what you don't want.

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          #19
          Originally posted by Mr Spock View Post
          Yeah, that might work. If the connections are as you say (must confirm with the schematic) then it probably will work. One test is to manually trip the 30A breaker and see if it does what you want, and not what you don't want.
          Yes, did that at the weekend (its actually the 20amp circuit) - all functions normally with it tripped, it just doesn't heat the water, so I am going to go ahead and get that Insteon Switch, the Oregon scientific thermostat thing and the RFXCOM interface. Should keep me quiet for a few weekends.

          Got me thinking (which I think is what you refer to above) - a plugin that could monitor all the stuff like ph, chlorine etc would be a cool development - and save me money on those test strips :-)

          Jon

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            #20
            I am useing the AquaLink RS Onetouch. It is already controlled inside the house, was just wondering if there is a way to tie it in with homeseer. I was hoping that since all the switches are basically there, that there would be a way to do this.

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              #21
              Oh, in addition, I was told there was a Jandy Plug-in for HomeSeer, but my search doesn't seem to pull anything up.

              Comment


                #22
                Jon, make sure you get the right RFXComm receiver. I recommend their dual band receiver (310 & 433 MHz) to cover all options. You will need at least the 433 MHz single band reciever for the Oregon temp sensors.

                I don't think there are any chemical sensors for the home/consumer market. If you find one please let us know.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by SHen350 View Post
                  Oh, in addition, I was told there was a Jandy Plug-in for HomeSeer, but my search doesn't seem to pull anything up.
                  Try sending Barry Gordon a PM. He wrote one a long time ago but it never got posted to the message board.
                  -Rupp
                  sigpic

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                    #24
                    Found the original application that controls the pool controller.

                    http://board.homeseer.com/showpost.p...89&postcount=1
                    -Rupp
                    sigpic

                    Comment


                      #25
                      I have been using the aqualink and the plugin for 2 years now... I love it, it works great..I control, the pool lights, thermostat, pump funtion, deck jets, waterfall and a few other things all from homeseer and touch.

                      Also just note that there is an additonal rs232 interface needed ontop of the cost of the panel itself.

                      If anyone is interested I can get them panels for wholesale, but if you search on the net hard enough you can find almost the same deals.

                      They are very easy to install, but the truth is the same exact functions can be accomplished with a ezRain or EZIO and a few good relays.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Jandy Plug-In

                        Rupp - I downloaded the plug-in from the link in your post but the executable doesn't do anything when I try to run it on my Pro-100. I think there is a lot of demand for pool controller integration and it would be great if there was an updated and supported plug-in provided. I also don't know whether to purchase the Jandy PC Link or the RS232 interface - I assume the RS232 interface.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Thank you for this thread

                          I have been working with Homeseer for quite some time, taking baby steps every Year. I have had all of my pools functions automated using heavy duty X-10 inline modules, and all has been well. My SPA is also part of my swimming pool. One thing that has eluded me was how to get the SPA's water temperature, after I had fired the homeseer events. Usage scenario for the past couple of years was fire the event, and then wait 20 minutes, walk outside, stick hand in water, and then see if water was hot. (We have a gas heater). I almost bought an Oregon Scientific floating temperature gauge in desperation, but was reluctant to do so since I could think of no way to get data from it into Homeseer. This thread taught me that I can in fact use the Oregon floating temp sensor, with the RFXCOMM receiver, and accomplish what I have been trying to do all these years. Somehow I overlooked this device in the past. Thanks again!

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Would this work?

                            Does anybody see any potential problems with this setup?

                            I have a hot tub at a seasonal cottage an hour away that has zwave components installed and operational. I want to install a z-wave controlled contactor on the heater line, and turn off power to the contactor while we are gone. We usually are there weekends. While we are gone, the spa pack would cycle it's filtering cycles as usual, and the temp would be set to where I like i, just that the heater wouldn't heat.

                            Freezing isn't an issue as the tub is only used in the summer.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by jselinger View Post
                              Does anybody see any potential problems with this setup?

                              I have a hot tub at a seasonal cottage an hour away that has zwave components installed and operational. I want to install a z-wave controlled contactor on the heater line, and turn off power to the contactor while we are gone. We usually are there weekends. While we are gone, the spa pack would cycle it's filtering cycles as usual, and the temp would be set to where I like i, just that the heater wouldn't heat.

                              Freezing isn't an issue as the tub is only used in the summer.
                              I had a relay fail on my controller to the heater which is pretty much the same as cutting the power to the heater. What happened is that the controller ran the pumps WAY more often than needed which created enough heat to not freeze the water.

                              I really think that the controller doesn't like a situation where it's calling for heat but not getting it.
                              Joe (zimmer62)

                              BLSecurtiy, AC-RF2, RCS Serial Thermostats, RFXCOM SMarthome SwitchLinc, mcsXap, Global Cache GC100, SqueezeBox, TWA_ONKYOINTEGRA, BLLogMonitor, BLPlugins, BLRadar, BLSpeech, BLZLog.aspx, HSTouch (Windows, iPhone, iPod), USB Mimo touchscreens, VMWare Server, Vortexbox, Windows Home Server, MyMovies, Windows Media Center, X10, ZWave, and much much much more.

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                                #30
                                Ok thanks.

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