Dimmers don't require neutrals - Relay Switches and In-wall controllers need a common neutrals
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Starting over - what to use Insteon/UPB/??
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So I could install scene capable dimmer without a neutral and just need a neutral for the 4 button scene controller?________________________
Dell Zino HD - HSPRo 2.x
HSTouch - iPhone 3GS, 4S, iPad2 and iPad 3, 3xKindle Fire (Wall mounted)
2 x Brultech ECM1240 with UltraECM
USB UIRT
Cooper Aspire Z-Wave Switches
WGL800 w ACRF2 and 3xDS10a (Sump Level/Activity sensing)
HM ST812-2 Flood Sensor
HSM100 - Motion Detector with Light and Temperature
2GIG Thermostat
BLDSC - Alarm Plug-in
BLUPS
UltraLog (SQL2008)
Jon00 Plugins
Host XR3 BT and Jon00 BT Proximity
Global Cache IP2IR
Foscam FI8918W
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Originally posted by mark_anderson_us View PostSo I could install scene capable dimmer without a neutral and just need a neutral for the 4 button scene controller?Mike____________________________________________________________ __________________
HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.548, NUC i3
HW: Stargate | NX8e | CAV6.6 | Squeezebox | PCS | WGL 800RF | RFXCOM | Vantage Pro | Green-Eye | Edgeport/8 | Way2Call | Ecobee3 | EtherRain | Ubiquiti
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OK Thanks
Guess I need to run some neutrals :-(
Got quite a bot of knob and tube to replace anyway________________________
Dell Zino HD - HSPRo 2.x
HSTouch - iPhone 3GS, 4S, iPad2 and iPad 3, 3xKindle Fire (Wall mounted)
2 x Brultech ECM1240 with UltraECM
USB UIRT
Cooper Aspire Z-Wave Switches
WGL800 w ACRF2 and 3xDS10a (Sump Level/Activity sensing)
HM ST812-2 Flood Sensor
HSM100 - Motion Detector with Light and Temperature
2GIG Thermostat
BLDSC - Alarm Plug-in
BLUPS
UltraLog (SQL2008)
Jon00 Plugins
Host XR3 BT and Jon00 BT Proximity
Global Cache IP2IR
Foscam FI8918W
Comment
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Adding a neutral wire to your switch boxes is an excellent "future proofing" step, but you should also check the detailed specifications for the switches you are considering, to see if they can operate without a neutral. I just installed an occupancy sensor switch designed for CFL control that appears to use the ground wire in place of a neutral. (The ground connection is required for it to operate properly, according to the instructions. ) I would have guessed that is not to code, but it's made by Leviton and it's UL approved, so I wouldn't rule anything out entirely.Mike____________________________________________________________ __________________
HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.548, NUC i3
HW: Stargate | NX8e | CAV6.6 | Squeezebox | PCS | WGL 800RF | RFXCOM | Vantage Pro | Green-Eye | Edgeport/8 | Way2Call | Ecobee3 | EtherRain | Ubiquiti
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Thinking about it, I don't see why it wouldn't work. Isn't the neutral tied back to ground in the service panel (assuming you only have one panel). I looked in mine and there are some neutrals, but they're all mixed in on the same bus as the ground________________________
Dell Zino HD - HSPRo 2.x
HSTouch - iPhone 3GS, 4S, iPad2 and iPad 3, 3xKindle Fire (Wall mounted)
2 x Brultech ECM1240 with UltraECM
USB UIRT
Cooper Aspire Z-Wave Switches
WGL800 w ACRF2 and 3xDS10a (Sump Level/Activity sensing)
HM ST812-2 Flood Sensor
HSM100 - Motion Detector with Light and Temperature
2GIG Thermostat
BLDSC - Alarm Plug-in
BLUPS
UltraLog (SQL2008)
Jon00 Plugins
Host XR3 BT and Jon00 BT Proximity
Global Cache IP2IR
Foscam FI8918W
Comment
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I am not doubting that it works, but there should be NO current on the ground wire. A GFCI will trip in msec if it detects any. That's why I'm surprised that it's ok to deliberately use the ground wire to complete a circuit. Maybe current below some threshold is allowed? I'm no expert, just surprised.Mike____________________________________________________________ __________________
HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.548, NUC i3
HW: Stargate | NX8e | CAV6.6 | Squeezebox | PCS | WGL 800RF | RFXCOM | Vantage Pro | Green-Eye | Edgeport/8 | Way2Call | Ecobee3 | EtherRain | Ubiquiti
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Although neutral and ground both connect to ground at the panel the difference is this -
The neutral conductors carry current. Current on electrial conductor having some resistance = voltage drop. So current carrying conductors ALWAYS have some voltage on them (getting smaller and smaller as they get closer to true ground). Most 15 or 20 amp circuits when loaded have lots of voltage.
The ground conductors on the other hand should NOT normally carry current (it's there for safety purposes only) and therefore have no (or little, in practice) voltage. So when a fault occurs you have a safer path to ground.
I'm no expert, and a little electrical theory can be dangerous. The concept of ground for example. Ground is ground, right? What happens when a high voltage cable falls on the ground? Ground potential is forced down into the earth somewhere several feet below the point of the contact and the potential forms a vortex pattern around that point below the surface (think funnel shape with the widest part at the surface). As you walk toward the cable a person with a 3 foot stride now has his feet at 2 different potentials that get increasing larger as you get closer, until 'poof'. You're dead.
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Got a chance to go over to the house today with a spare plug-in dimming lamp module and a communications module and run some communications tests...
From one end of one structure to the far end of the OTHER structure, I still had 87/100 signal strength an 0-noise. WOW. I then tried some of the outbuildings that were "invisible" before. 83/100 with 5-noise. Walking around and plugging in various plugs I had a few that were really noisy (7) that up-start complained about, but I still had 80+ signal, and since I need (<10) to work...I don't think I will have a problem using UPB even without a coupler... WOW...
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