X10 Transmit Issue

[stueng]

I have read various posts about people having problems with certain rooms accepting X10 commands and some not etc and its got something to do with needing a device which connects the two separate circuits or something but I'm not sure this is my problem

I just moved into my new home about 3 weeks ago and am in the process of setting up my X10 gear

Now, the X10 CM11A thing is connected in a cupboard in the louge (where the computer is that controls it)

I can control plugs in my bedroom, shed, kitchen and some of the lounge. I cannot control one of the devices in another cupboard (in the louge; the aquarium lights). This is a big problem for me because I can't use a z-wave appliance module because the lights are LED's and the z-wave appliance module lets through a trickle of current, enough to make the LEDs flash occasionally.

now .. the weird bit is... if I pull the CM11A out of the cupboard and plug it into one of a double plug wall sockets in the lounge (about 1 meter difference - the cupboard is in the lounge) I experience the exact same symptons; if I take the LED appliance module and plug into the second plug on the same wall socket/outlet thing I still cannot control this module. If I then move this module to the shed/bedroom or opposite side of the lounge I can control it.

My house is a small, one bedroom house in London.. I really dont think I have multiple circuits, or even if I did, could I really have two plugs on a single socket/outlet thing on different circuits?

Also.. I must add that at one stage this worked. The first week that I moved in I was able to control the LED's; I then re-built the homeseer computer and migrated my database onto another server and ever since I have been unable to control my devices inside that cupboard

at this time, I also introduced a USB-to-Serial adapter because the new machine only has USB

any things I can do to try and resolve this issue? I either need to fix this X10 issue or find a z-wave

[rmasonjr]

If you can control some devices and not others, then the problem is going to be one or more of the following:

Need a coupler to bridge 'legs' of power - not sure how this is done in the UK.
Something is eating the X10 signals from the powerline - anything new plugged-in anywhere?
Bad switch/device.

If at all possible, you may also need to move the CM11a to another plug on a different circuit.

[mrhappy]

I would'nt discount multiple circuits, I have a one bedroom apartment and there are two ring mains (kitchen ring, rest of house ring and the kitchen cooker is also seperate) - take a look at your fuse box and see what breakers/fuses are fitted to give you an idea. If you want post back here and might be able to give you a rough idea of whats what - then have a look at isolating the circuits and see what sockets are connected to what.

I have some sockets that are ex-storage heater connection points - that are on different breakers to the rest of the sockets in the room.

Try just seeing if unplugging a few things in the lounge makes a difference, flourescent lights, some laptop chargers for example can kill an X10 signal. I have a flourescent light plugged into one socket that when its on won't let an X10 signal get to a socket on the opposite side of the room, but will control something X10 a shorter distance away - why I don't know, just perhaps one of the joys of powerline comms.

If the Zwave module is not working have you tried with a dummy load? Thinking something like another small filament bulb connected with the LED's so that they switch on at the same time, it might work might not (or if its running an aquarium you might be able to make that useful and connect it with a powerhead or something).

[stueng]

I'll try unplugging stuff, cos like i said at one stage it worked and I do have three new laptop chargers plugged in at random places.

Could you elaborate on the z-wave dummy load thing? I can't use zwave modules cos of the small current passing through while they are off is enough to make led's light up occasionally. There is nothing else in the aquarium I would ever want switched off

[TeleFragger]

yeah when x10 starts to stop for me i just have to think what was recently plugged in... if i dont remember.. i run around and start unplugging things in each room....

by now i know my living room (tv, all media equipment and computer) are all good so dont need to unplug... but run around the house.. once it works.. then start plugging back in and figure out what it is...

usually it was a APC1000 that i just plugged in that didnt have a filter on it....

[mrhappy]

I'll try unplugging stuff, cos like i said at one stage it worked and I do have three new laptop chargers plugged in at random places.

Could you elaborate on the z-wave dummy load thing? I can't use zwave modules cos of the small current passing through while they are off is enough to make led's light up occasionally. There is nothing else in the aquarium I would ever want switched off

The dummy load is just a trick so the appliance module is controlling something in addition to your LEDs.

Try a double socket adaptor connected to the appliance module, plug your LED's into one socket and something else to the other socket (just to test try a normal light) - you might find it switches off/on then as the other item is stopping the leak of current.

Used to use it in theatres, when the light being controlled was a lower rating than the dimmer accepts, connect another light to the same circuit and point it off stage...hey presto they both then dim OK.

[kensmith]

Hi

I was having similar problems to you. Everything has been working well for over 4 years now then all a a sudden certain things stopped working or I would come down in the morning and lights would be on etc. really random. I eventually thought enough and I have just fit a TF678 200 Amp Filter/3 Phase Coupler I am not using this as a coupler although it will couple but as a whole house filter to stop any incoming signals and clean the circuit before hitting the rest of the house. It is also very easy to fit.
I have also just fit XTB-IIR X10 Signal Amplifier & XM10 Emulator/Amplifier this gets over any noise generating devices in the house and is so powerful it gets around any amount of circuits.
So far everything is working really well and I have not had a single failure or random activity

The reason I chose this route was because I kept reading that people spend alot of time running round unplugging devices till things start to work again. I could not be bothered with this and the wife is not happy with my gadgets so when the don't work it just gives her something else to complain about. I got bot these devices from letsautomate.com in the UK

Hope this helps
Ken

[Uncle Michael]

I second the recommendation for XTB-IIR. Even if you do find your problem and devise a fix, another will almost inevitably crop up. As you add more "stuff" to your collection of electronic devices, X10 problems will just get more complicated. The XTB produces a signal that will overcome all but the most egregious noise-creating and signal-depleting devices. Above all, Jeff is great to work with if you have questions or problems.

[stueng]

just had a look at the XTB-IIR thing and it looks very confusing, I'll try finding soething to act a dummy load on the z-wave modules as I prefer these anyway, I like being able to query the status of devices. If I cant solve the z-wave problem then ill look to get one of those things but someone will have to tell me where it goes and how it connects up

[Uncle Michael]

The place to go for any and all questions about the use of the XTB is Jeff Volp. jeff@jvde.us

[kensmith]

Hi

The XTB is very simple. It comes set up with defaults which fit exactly what I needed so no need to worry about confusing setups.

It is recomended that the unit is hard wired to the Breaker panel but it does come with a fly lead to plug into the mains if you dont want to hardwire (mine is hardwired)

Take the plunge you will not be disapointed

Cheers
Ken

[buvens]

Hi

The XTB is very simple. It comes set up with defaults which fit exactly what I needed so no need to worry about confusing setups.

It is recomended that the unit is hard wired to the Breaker panel but it does come with a fly lead to plug into the mains if you dont want to hardwire (mine is hardwired)

Take the plunge you will not be disapointed

Cheers
Ken

I second that. Really brought my X10 back to life and hasn't looked back. Mine is plugged into two seperate phases in the wiring closet with big labels on both, not to unplug one without the other for safety.

[stueng]

Hi

The XTB is very simple. It comes set up with defaults which fit exactly what I needed so no need to worry about confusing setups.

It is recomended that the unit is hard wired to the Breaker panel but it does come with a fly lead to plug into the mains if you dont want to hardwire (mine is hardwired)

Take the plunge you will not be disapointed

Cheers
Ken

Thing is I am a late adopter, I have tried X10 and Z-Wave and I prefer Z-Wave. I am going to try the dummy circuit thing, was hoping to try last night but didnt get round to it. Hopefully tonight

If dummy loading doesnt work, then maybe I'll ask you guys what hardwiring to the breaker means :P

[Uncle Michael]

Mine is plugged into two seperate phases in the wiring closet with big labels on both, not to unplug one without the other for safety.

That's an interesting idea. I assume you have SG plugged into the XTB-IIR as well. How far are the plugs (electrically) from your panel?

[buvens]

"That's an interesting idea. I assume you have SG plugged into the XTB-IIR as well. How far are the plugs (electrically) from your panel? "

Yes the Stargate is plugged into the XTB-IIR. The 2 circuit outlets are probably about 50 feet of wire from the Breaker panel.
Took me a little while with a meter to find another outlet that was on the other phase in close proximity so I could just extend the circuit into the closet to accomplish this.
Between this and a few X10 filters it has really extended the life of X10.
I have an old RCS X10 unit with 16 relays probably about 200 feet from the main panel feed through another panel in the garage that takes care of the sprinker valves out back. It never misses a lick. Wish I could say that for my Schlage Z-wave lock on the steel door.