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    My CT30 experiences

    I bought a CT30 and after installing it and using it for about 2 weeks decided to send it back and bought the Honeywell ZWave TH8320ZW1007/U. I'm posting just to let others know my experiences so they can make an informed purchased as I failed to thoroughly investigate this product before I purchased it. Some of my observations pertain to the 3M Wifi units being sold at Home Depot and online as other brands. I'm just posting my observations which some may disagree with, that's fine, others may find it useful or just entertaining.

    1. The backlight won't stay always on. I like to be able to walk past my tstat in a dark hallway and see what it is displaying. With the CT30 you have to touch the screen to turn on the backlight. The backlight times out after a few minutes. I posted on the Radio Thermostat forum and one of the techs replied and told me always on backlight isn't currently available.

    2. I really didn't like how it wired. There is no backplate as most tstats have. The wires connect to the screw terminal strip at the top of the unit. They suggest centering the unit on the hole in the wall and bringing the wires up the behind the unit and then through a slot. I found it impossible and had to place the unit so the wires could come out of the wall and directly in the stop. This made the hole in the wall and the wires entering the tstat slightly visible after the top cover was put on. The way the Honeywell's and others wire with the backplate you can totally conceal the wires and you don't have to bend them sharply in a tight space.

    3. The CT30 mounts with four screws directly through the unit which get covered by the top and bottom covers. The holes are perfectly round not oval in opposite orientation like the Honeywell and other tstats I've installed. This is a minor thing but it helps when getting the unit level.

    4. I was powering the CT30 from 24VAC from the start. Without adding a Schlage lamp module I couldn't get HS to poll the CT30. Poll wasn't an option on the device in HS. I did all the optimization and HS reported everything was fine but I couldn't get polling to work. I am using a brand new ZTroller with latest firmware. I hooked up the Honeywell and was able to enable polling on it from the start. No problems, no optimization, no required lamp module, no magic smoke. The only thing I changed was switching out the CT30 for the Honeywell. My conclusion is that the Honeywell has a better ZWave radio than the CT30.

    5. The Honeywell comes with a "wire saver" module THP9045 that allows you to use this thermostat when a C wire is not available. This allows for the functionality of a 5 wire system when only 4 wires are available. I didn't use this module but it comes with the tstat and may "solve" the problem of no C wire for some installations. If you are buying the CT30 because it is the "only" Zwave tstat that doesn't require a C wire this module may be another option.


    Jabran
    Last edited by jabrans; January 9, 2012, 10:33 PM.

    #2
    Yup, my experiences exactly.

    Comment


      #3
      I agree with most of what you've reported, but I came to a different conclusion. I'm using the RM-50 from Home Depot, with a Wifi module rather than ZWave. That makes all the difference to me, since I am pretty sure that Wifi is going to be around in five years, while I'm less sure about other wireless protocols like ZWave and Insteon.

      On the RM-50 the screwholes are oval, which helps.

      Of course, with a Wifi radio, connecting to the modules is pretty straightforward, and you can do it from Homeseer, or any device with a browser, which these days means any device at all. And that's out of the box.

      The annoyances of the RM-50 are just as you reported - the backlight particularly. Hopefully enough people will complain that they will change this - there are units that the manufacturer has where the timeout for the backlight is set longer (they're apparently visible on some of the YouTube videos) so we know it is not a technical limitation.

      Comment


        #4
        I agree with both of you on some of the annoyances with these thermostats. I bought 4 CT-30 ZWave thermostats and they all were unreliable in my setup. I sold two of them and replaced them with the 3M-50. So far that thermostat has been very reliable, though the backlight issue is the same.

        I plan to replace my other two CT-30 ZWave thermostats with the 3M-50 (and possibly one CT-80). I believe the price for the WiFi versions of these stats outweighs the minor issues I have with them. I should also have a HS plugin available soon to control the WiFi versions.
        HS Pro 3.0 | Linux Ubuntu 16.04 x64 virtualized under Proxmox (KVM)
        Hardware: Z-NET - W800 Serial - Digi PortServer TS/8 and TS/16 serial to Ethernet - Insteon PLM - RFXCOM - X10 Wireless
        Plugins: HSTouch iOS and Android, RFXCOM, BlueIris, BLLock, BLDSC, BLRF, Insteon PLM (MNSandler), Device History, Ecobee, BLRing, Kodi, UltraWeatherWU3
        Second home: Zee S2 with Z-Wave, CT101 Z-Wave Thermostat, Aeotec Z-Wave microswitches, HSM200 occupancy sensor, Ecolink Z-Wave door sensors, STI Driveway Monitor interfaced to Zee S2 GPIO pins.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by jabrans View Post
          I bought a CT30 and after installing it and using it for about 2 weeks decided to send it back and bought the Honeywell ZWave TH8320ZW1007/U. I'm posting just to let others know my experiences so they can make an informed purchased as I failed to thoroughly investigate this product before I purchased it. Some of my observations pertain to the 3M Wifi units being sold at Home Depot and online as other brands. I'm just posting my observations which some may disagree with, that's fine, others may find it useful or just entertaining.

          1. The backlight won't stay always on. I like to be able to walk past my tstat in a dark hallway and see what it is displaying. With the CT30 you have to touch the screen to turn on the backlight. The backlight times out after a few minutes. I posted on the Radio Thermostat forum and one of the techs replied and told me always on backlight isn't currently available.

          2. I really didn't like how it wired. There is no backplate as most tstats have. The wires connect to the screw terminal strip at the top of the unit. They suggest centering the unit on the hole in the wall and bringing the wires up the behind the unit and then through a slot. I found it impossible and had to place the unit so the wires could come out of the wall and directly in the stop. This made the hole in the wall and the wires entering the tstat slightly visible after the top cover was put on. The way the Honeywell's and others wire with the backplate you can totally conceal the wires and you don't have to bend them sharply in a tight space.

          3. The CT30 mounts with four screws directly through the unit which get covered by the top and bottom covers. The holes are perfectly round not oval in opposite orientation like the Honeywell and other tstats I've installed. This is a minor thing but it helps when getting the unit level.

          4. I was powering the CT30 from 24VAC from the start. Without adding a Schlage lamp module I couldn't get HS to poll the CT30. Poll wasn't an option on the device in HS. I did all the optimization and HS reported everything was fine but I couldn't get polling to work. I am using a brand new ZTroller with latest firmware. I hooked up the Honeywell and was able to enable polling on it from the start. No problems, no optimization, no required lamp module, no magic smoke. The only thing I changed was switching out the CT30 for the Honeywell. My conclusion is that the Honeywell has a better ZWave radio than the CT30.

          5. The Honeywell comes with a "wire saver" module THP9045 that allows you to use this thermostat when a C wire is not available. This allows for the functionality of a 5 wire system when only 4 wires are available. I didn't use this module but it comes with the tstat and may "solve" the problem of no C wire for some installations. If you are buying the CT30 because it is the "only" Zwave tstat that doesn't require a C wire this module may be another option.


          Jabran
          Hi Jabran

          I'm same as you. Got CT-30 and don't like it and looking to replace. My requirements are:
          1. T-stat must work if HS dies (i.e. schedule must be in t-stat)
          2. T-stat must be controllable locally when paired (CT-30 cannot)
          3. Must be able to change setpoint and mode (heat/off) from HS
          4. Must be able to control from iOS (can be Web page, native App or HSTouch)
          5. No rip-off subscription service for remote control (I have static IP so can get to my net from anywhere)
          Can you confirm any/all of above?

          Regards

          Mark
          ________________________

          Dell Zino HD - HSPRo 2.x
          HSTouch - iPhone 3GS, 4S, iPad2 and iPad 3, 3xKindle Fire (Wall mounted)
          2 x Brultech ECM1240 with UltraECM
          USB UIRT
          Cooper Aspire Z-Wave Switches
          WGL800 w ACRF2 and 3xDS10a (Sump Level/Activity sensing)
          HM ST812-2 Flood Sensor
          HSM100 - Motion Detector with Light and Temperature
          2GIG Thermostat
          BLDSC - Alarm Plug-in
          BLUPS
          UltraLog (SQL2008)
          Jon00 Plugins
          Host XR3 BT and Jon00 BT Proximity
          Global Cache IP2IR
          Foscam FI8918W

          Comment


            #6
            is this still the issue? no one likes?

            i just got 2 from jbbtex and was going to use 1 over my current ca8900.
            what i liked is it is 5-1-1 programmable.. wife just got a 2 month job so would be nice.. i know HS can program mine currently for times..

            so is the CT30's still not a good choice and would you replace a ca8900 with it?
            HW - i5 4570T @2.9ghz runs @11w | 8gb ram | 128gb ssd OS - Win10 x64

            HS - HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.435

            Plugins - BLRF 2.0.94.0 | Concord 4 3.1.13.10 | HSBuddy 3.9.605.5 | HSTouch Server 3.0.0.68 | RFXCOM 30.0.0.36 | X10 3.0.0.36 | Z-Wave 3.0.1.190

            Hardware - EdgePort/4 DB9 Serial | RFXCOM 433MHz USB Transceiver | Superbus 2000 for Concord 4 | TI103 X-10 Interface | WGL Designs W800 RF | Z-Net Z-Wave Interface

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by TeleFragger View Post
              is this still the issue? no one likes?

              i just got 2 from jbbtex and was going to use 1 over my current ca8900.
              what i liked is it is 5-1-1 programmable.. wife just got a 2 month job so would be nice.. i know HS can program mine currently for times..

              so is the CT30's still not a good choice and would you replace a ca8900 with it?
              If you are going to use it, make sure you power it. Put a transformer in the wall behind it or power off your HVAC system if possible. Without power it's just not useful/reliable in my experience. All 5 of mine are powered.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by jeremystevenson View Post
                If you are going to use it, make sure you power it. Put a transformer in the wall behind it or power off your HVAC system if possible. Without power it's just not useful/reliable in my experience. All 5 of mine are powered.
                when you say powered.. the C wire.. (which i had to run for my ca8900) is there... as i had to power that unit to not eat up every battery...
                HW - i5 4570T @2.9ghz runs @11w | 8gb ram | 128gb ssd OS - Win10 x64

                HS - HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.435

                Plugins - BLRF 2.0.94.0 | Concord 4 3.1.13.10 | HSBuddy 3.9.605.5 | HSTouch Server 3.0.0.68 | RFXCOM 30.0.0.36 | X10 3.0.0.36 | Z-Wave 3.0.1.190

                Hardware - EdgePort/4 DB9 Serial | RFXCOM 433MHz USB Transceiver | Superbus 2000 for Concord 4 | TI103 X-10 Interface | WGL Designs W800 RF | Z-Net Z-Wave Interface

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by TeleFragger View Post
                  when you say powered.. the C wire.. (which i had to run for my ca8900) is there... as i had to power that unit to not eat up every battery...
                  Yes, if you do that then everything will work fine.

                  Comment

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