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    Automated Lighting

    Years ago when I started with my Stargate and X10 lighting the dream was to have lights that come on when you enter a room and turn off when you leave.

    As you already know, lights turning off on you when your in a room and having to flap your arms like a bird so the PIR picks you up and turns the light back on is a very WAF killer!

    I only have three rooms that I merely turn lights on when entering, but never off. The master bedroom turns on a light with motion for the nightly bathroom runs and turns it back off. The only other time I turn lights off is outside lights at specific times, and all the house lights when the alarm is set.

    So, 90% of my UPB lights are not really used that much in an automated fashion. Kinda depressing.

    I was watching some youtube videos on home automation tours and see one dealer uses low wall mounted PIR sensors to pick up people walking through an area (and avoiding pets). They enter a hallway, the light turns on then off just as quickly when they leave the hallway.

    What kinds of automation are you doing with lights and what keeps the WAF up enough to keep you out of trouble?
    -Tim

    HSPro - 3.XXX - Dell mini W7 x32
    Way2 Call
    Elk M1 Gold
    UPB HAI switches
    HAI RC2000 Thermostat

    #2
    A lot of my lights turn OFF after 'x' minutes of no motion; it's not as soon as a person leaves the room. Placement of motion sensors can get tricky with pets, so it's a lot of trial and error.

    The first rule of automation is: thou shalt not turn the lights OFF when the wife is in the bathroom.
    HS4Pro Running on a Raspberry Pi4
    79 Z-Wave Nodes, 131 Events, 383 Devices
    Z-Wave, UPB, WiFi
    Plugins: EasyTrigger, weatherXML, OMNI, Z-Wave, Tuya, Device History
    HSTouch Clients: 3 Android, 1 Joggler

    Comment


      #3
      What's is needed is a good affordable occupancy detector. I wonder if something like this would work.
      http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...minisite=10026
      -Rupp
      sigpic

      Comment


        #4
        Oh Yeah!

        Originally posted by rmasonjr View Post
        The first rule of automation is: thou shalt not turn the lights OFF when the wife is in the bathroom.
        Don

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by rmasonjr View Post
          The first rule of automation is: thou shalt not turn the lights OFF when the wife is in the bathroom.
          Ya no kidding! Good advise.

          Originally posted by rmasonjr View Post
          A lot of my lights turn OFF after 'x' minutes of no motion; it's not as soon as a person leaves the room. Placement of motion sensors can get tricky with pets, so it's a lot of trial and error.
          What motion sensors and tricks are you using?

          Originally posted by Rupp View Post
          What's is needed is a good affordable occupancy detector. I wonder if something like this would work.
          http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...minisite=10026
          Rupp, I would have guessed you'd have this automated lighting down by now! lol
          -Tim

          HSPro - 3.XXX - Dell mini W7 x32
          Way2 Call
          Elk M1 Gold
          UPB HAI switches
          HAI RC2000 Thermostat

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by email68 View Post

            What motion sensors and tricks are you using?
            Good old x10 motion sensors and the BLRadar plugin.
            HS4Pro Running on a Raspberry Pi4
            79 Z-Wave Nodes, 131 Events, 383 Devices
            Z-Wave, UPB, WiFi
            Plugins: EasyTrigger, weatherXML, OMNI, Z-Wave, Tuya, Device History
            HSTouch Clients: 3 Android, 1 Joggler

            Comment


              #7
              I do three things that have helped improve WAF.
              1. When a motion sensor (mostly cheap X10 RF) is triggered, it changes a virtual occupancy device state to On. I run a script every 30 seconds that checks each occupancy device and if it is on, it turns it off. That assures that the occupancy sensors do not get stuck in an on state. I do not use the PIR off signal.
              2. I do not turn off a room light until the virtual occupancy device has been off for X minutes. The value of X is determined by tracking how long the virtual sensor can remain off even when someone is in the room (sitting quietly, for example). X is always significantly greater than the typical off time.
              3. In the kitchen, where I have tried to keep X to a minimum, I have an audible warning a minute before the lights go down, and then I dim them in two steps, a minute apart. Any motion during that 2-minute period immediately returns the lights to normal brightness.

              Overall, my primary objective (except the kitchen) has not been to have the lights turn off as quickly as possible, but to assure that they do not stay on for hours while no one is in the room. At less than 10 cents per kWHr, the energy savings for 10 or 20 minutes of extra lighting is not enough to justify annoying the rest of the family.
              Mike____________________________________________________________ __________________
              HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.548, NUC i3

              HW: Stargate | NX8e | CAV6.6 | Squeezebox | PCS | WGL 800RF | RFXCOM | Vantage Pro | Green-Eye | Edgeport/8 | Way2Call | Ecobee3 | EtherRain | Ubiquiti

              Comment


                #8
                ill give just my garage as an example... it is 99%... im going to start from scratch soon though... again.. but..


                garage door to house has a concord door alarm contacts
                MS13A sitting between dual garage doors
                el cheapo x10 push button switch

                open garage door
                -- eventa - turn light on & send motion on (do this as sometimes people open the door but change mind and dont walk in.. light stays on)

                -- eventb - turn light off after x minutes of no motion

                -- eventc - turn light on when motion detected

                has worked great for me until the xmas time frame when WAF factor was to shut down everything cuz no motion triggered an off in the garage..

                umm he was carying meats to put in the garage freezer... and she almost tripped over my tools and hurt herself...

                i later found out that my ac-rf2 dll was problematic.. i renamed it to .dl and reinstalled the plugin.. seems to be working now...

                since i had that issue im contemplating starting from scratch.. to get a clean slate...


                ******************
                edited...
                oh yeah also a member here helped me understand creating a manual event.. for off... it deletes the light off.. then sets light off after x minutes... then second event calls that one on the triggered on..
                something like that.. i was using it in my hallway...
                HW - i5 4570T @2.9ghz runs @11w | 8gb ram | 128gb ssd OS - Win10 x64

                HS - HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.435

                Plugins - BLRF 2.0.94.0 | Concord 4 3.1.13.10 | HSBuddy 3.9.605.5 | HSTouch Server 3.0.0.68 | RFXCOM 30.0.0.36 | X10 3.0.0.36 | Z-Wave 3.0.1.190

                Hardware - EdgePort/4 DB9 Serial | RFXCOM 433MHz USB Transceiver | Superbus 2000 for Concord 4 | TI103 X-10 Interface | WGL Designs W800 RF | Z-Net Z-Wave Interface

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Uncle Michael View Post
                  At less than 10 cents per kWHr, the energy savings for 10 or 20 minutes of extra lighting is not enough to justify annoying the rest of the family.


                  This is so true! It's easy to get side-tracked into thinking that turning off the lights is saving a lot of electricity. The reality is that one cycle of your electric water heater uses more electricity than what you will save in several months by using a motion sensor to keep the lights on only when a room is occupied. We need to focus on things like shorter showers and turning the electric water heater off overnight and much of the day. Use CFLs and LED lights. It's easy and you will probably save more than what you will save by automating lights OFF if no motion.

                  Steve Q
                  HomeSeer Version: HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.368, Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 - Home, Number of Devices: 373, Number of Events: 666, Enabled Plug-Ins
                  2.0.83.0: BLRF, 2.0.10.0: BLUSBUIRT, 3.0.0.75: HSTouch Server, 3.0.0.58: mcsXap, 3.0.0.11: NetCAM, 3.0.0.36: X10, 3.0.1.25: Z-Wave,Alexa,HomeKit

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I'm already all LED which I know does not cost much to run. But if I don't automate my lights how do I justify my $55 UPB switches! ;-)

                    $55 x 20 switches = need for why! lol

                    I have been automating my garage light too for a while. Basically all I do is trigger an on when the house door opens up to the garage. It only turns off 3 minutes after the vehicle garage door closes, thinking we are leaving the home. Works 90% of the time. There are those times when I'm working in there and close the garage door and the light has gone off on me. Also if you open the door just to look out and close it, you have to turn the light off manually first.

                    This past weekend I added a motion detector to the garage, so now I'm going to incorporate some of the logic TeleFragger mentioned.

                    In this video at around the 2:20 time they show a low mounted PIR just for lighting control. I thought that was pretty cool. Earlier they talk about the lighting was set to track your movements.

                    I wonder what WAF level is included in their package.
                    -Tim

                    HSPro - 3.XXX - Dell mini W7 x32
                    Way2 Call
                    Elk M1 Gold
                    UPB HAI switches
                    HAI RC2000 Thermostat

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by email68 View Post
                      ... I wonder what WAF level is included in their package.
                      When WAF can be packaged and sold, expect a run on it
                      Paul

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by email68 View Post
                        I'm already all LED which I know does not cost much to run. But if I don't automate my lights how do I justify my $55 UPB switches! ;-)
                        I gave up trying to justify the cost years ago. Today I just admit that it's a hobby and I do it for the challenge - and sometimes even for fun, when stuff works the way I want it to. I think my admission actually was well received and helped change the conversation about HA from 'why?' to 'what might be possible'.
                        Mike____________________________________________________________ __________________
                        HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.548, NUC i3

                        HW: Stargate | NX8e | CAV6.6 | Squeezebox | PCS | WGL 800RF | RFXCOM | Vantage Pro | Green-Eye | Edgeport/8 | Way2Call | Ecobee3 | EtherRain | Ubiquiti

                        Comment


                          #13
                          UM,

                          I'm 80% ready to start deploying motions in all the bedrooms. I've got a hardwired motion that I want to use, but in the mean time, I think I want to start by putting a few cheapie motions around to start with.

                          What do you do in the bedrooms? 20 minutes of no motion turns things off, or an override that turns everything off the the night?

                          I know I tried doing something like that in my main living room. I found I could get as low as 10 minutes without much hassle, using the MS10's (security motion sensor). But the way it was positioned, only really worked with us on the couch. I chose to not let it turn the light OFF until 15 minutes of no motion and only after a certain hour.

                          At this point, we just have that go on/off at certain hours. I'd like to have it extend the off time if I am downstairs - but be automatic. So, when I put the motion sensor back up, I'll probably do that. Right now, I had to take the sensor down to install my audio speakers.

                          Thanks!

                          --Dan
                          Tasker, to a person who does Homeautomation...is like walking up to a Crack Treatment facility with a truck full of 3lb bags of crack. Then for each person that walks in and out smack them in the face with an open bag.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I'm curious as well how people are handling occupancy and timing. I think Rupp is onto something in regards to needing a good occupancy sensor. What I don't want is for a light to turn off and someone having to flap their arms. This is why the only inside lighting automation at my house only turns lights on, they must be turned off manually. The only exception is at night when we push a goodnight button next to the bed. My bedroom motion detector is around a wall from the bed and it triggers a nightlight dim mode of the main light. This turns off after a few minutes. More trial and error on the timing.

                            I was thinking about the occupancy detection using other methods than a motion sensor. One thing I thought of for TV viewing. My two main living area TV's have network connections. I tested on one of them that you can ping it when it's on, but not when it's off. So the rule could be if there is no motion, but you can ping the TV, reset the off light timer.

                            Perhaps the same thing can be used in the office for PC use.
                            -Tim

                            HSPro - 3.XXX - Dell mini W7 x32
                            Way2 Call
                            Elk M1 Gold
                            UPB HAI switches
                            HAI RC2000 Thermostat

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Uncle Michael View Post
                              I gave up trying to justify the cost years ago. Today I just admit that it's a hobby and I do it for the challenge - and sometimes even for fun, when stuff works the way I want it to. I think my admission actually was well received and helped change the conversation about HA from 'why?' to 'what might be possible'.

                              This is very WISE advice for any hobby.

                              My son used to be into a game called Heroclix so I started playing it to have something he enjoyed, that we could do together.
                              The games uses plastic super heroes and some of the pieces are pretty expensive. I quickly learned to not ask "why" and just realize that all hobbys are expensive and just enjoy playing the game.
                              --
                              Jeff Farmer
                              HS 3, HSPhone
                              My HS3 Plugins: CFHSExtras, Random, Restart, Tracker, WeatherXML, PanaBluRay
                              Other Plugins In Use: APCUPSD, BLOnkyo, Device History, EasyTrigger, HSTouch Server, PHLocation2, Pushover, RFXCom, UltraGCIR3, UltraMon3, UltraPioneerAVR3, X10, Z-Wave

                              Hardware: GoControl Irrigation Controler, Schlage Lever Lock, Schlage Deadbolt, Way2Call Hi-Phone, RFXCom RFXrec433 Receiver, WGL 800, TI-103, Z-Net, Pioneer 1120, Pioneer 1021, Pioneer LX302, Panasonic BDT-110, Panasonic BDT-210 x2

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