Wiring insteon on live circuit

[TrevorG]

Im curious if anyone has tried with success to wire an insteon device on a live circuit. I'm wondering if the disconnect that's integral to the device is a complete or partial disconnect.

I wire standard devices live all the time and work on live breaker panels, so I'm fine with the power, just don't want to fry the insteon switches trying this

[Rupp]

I wouldn't do it. A small arc can take these devices out. I've fried a few doing this so I started shutting down the power.

[pbibm]

Rupp is right (not a surprise, mind you)
Many of them use triacs and don't survive and accidental short. Take a few minutes to turn the circuit off and save a few $

[TrevorG]

It just would be so much faster and less intrusive to the family. Just seeing if it would speed up the process. I'm going to pop one open to see what the disconnect is doing. If it's a mechanical disconnect, I'm gonna give it a shot. If its not, then it will definitely fry the device on an arc.

Prob be a lot easier doing the whole house rather tha parts and pieces. Wouldn't be nearly as painful. 2 storey house and the panel is in the basement.

[pbibm]

Probably the "in-betweensie' solution to trying to wire insteon switches "hot" would be to cap all of the unattached leads on the switch and the box and then uncap them one at a time and connect one at a time. Insteon switches have metal cases so it would be a matter of taking your time

[TrevorG]

Should only have to worry about hot. You can put the neutral and gnd in your mouth (if there's no stray voltages, old houses are more prone). The only damaging part should be when you go to connect the hot. If you're shaking and can't get the marrette on cleanly. Idk, sounds like the same scenarios for brown outs. It's a risk, but IF the integral disconnects is breaking Hot mechanically, there is very little risk if you take precautions.

I'm opening one up tomorrow and and we'll see what's inside

[TrevorG]

I guess I look at it this way: I've wasted $$ doing stupider things that were less fun.

[TrevorG]

Looked at one tonight. You can see the mechanical disconnect through the clear glass. Took it apart anyways and it does break the hot (black) and there is no bypass. As long as the disconnect is pulled, you don't pop it back in while terminating and the hot doesn't ground out through the case, it should be ok

Gonna test this with a switch tomorrow and I'll put my ammeter in line to make sure there's no trckle voltage that I missed. If it works, I'll do my next retrofit this way to see how it goes. If I fry 1 switch during an install, I'll chalk it up to a learning experience and never repeat. Also post my results in case someone else is curious.

This would cut down on time as I usually go reset clocks and what not after an install as a courtesy to the homeowner. Unique to insteon, others that don't have this disconnect, I would definitely not try!

[Mr_Resistor]

I wired over 30 of these hot. No drama. No excitement. No failures. Much faster and less intrusive. You mileage may vary, and if you're not comfy, turn off the juice. Just take your time, cover bare wires and work one connection at a time.

- Jim -

[TrevorG]

I wired over 30 of these hot. No drama. No excitement. No failures. Much faster and less intrusive. You mileage may vary, and if you're not comfy, turn off the juice. Just take your time, cover bare wires and work one connection at a time.

- Jim -

Agree. I did one today, no issues. I unterminated it & reterminated it 10 times and still no issues. Going to do the next job like this like I said. It did seem far quicker. See how it goes.