Any interest in wireless RGB LED strip lights with HomeSeer?

[gearyt]

That Would be awesome, I mostly use Itunes But started with Winamp just to use your plug in for it

Cheers Ken

perfect !!

[Kevin Lo]

yes, same leds as most here reported using.. led's work fine with their shipped controller and power supply, using that power supply

???

Can you take a photo to me and show me your wire connection to my RGB LED controller ?

[Kevin Lo]

Kevin, I may have a bad controller
no red output
strange, checked w/ voltmeter
when I select red only, I get voltage ( gnd ) on green as well wii check further
leds worked w/ their controller

ok, no load
when I select red, I get 12 on Red, 12 on Green, 7 on blu
when I select Blue grn =0 red = 0 blu =12
when I select green grn =112 , red = 12, bul = 0

log show correct info going to controller ??

Do you want me to open up and look for short ?

Did you also try the setup program instead of the HS plug-in ?

[gearyt]

Did you also try the setup program instead of the HS plug-in ?

couldn't get it to open under Win 8.1
will try under win 8 tonite

[gearyt]

Did you try to test with another power supply ? You can look into the previous post , another user also report that only one color turn on. Finally it find a problem on the power supply.
Did your LED is common 12V + ?

Thx

got windows program to work off of thumb drive.. same results
swapping ps now.. same problem

anything else you want me to check prior to sending back ??

i have tried w/ 2 power supplies, 2 programs, 2 led strips..
I can send you xmft, controller, and strip so you can check it out
just forward address you want it shipped to

[Kevin Lo]

got windows program to work off of thumb drive.. same results
swapping ps now.. same problem

anything else you want me to check prior to sending back ??

i have tried w/ 2 power supplies, 2 programs, 2 led strips..
I can send you xmft, controller, and strip so you can check it out
just forward address you want it shipped to

Can you check again the wiring ?
And then in Windows program , move your RGB slider to 255 , that mean is full power output to all three channel.

If you have voltage meter , measure V+ and Red , V+ and Blue , V+ and Green , all should be around DC 12V.

Would you mind to take a photo for me about your connection ? I just want to reconfirm the wiring is correct.

Is that only Red color no output ? how about you connect the Red Color Wire to the Green or Blue connector ?

[gearyt]

Can you check again the wiring ?
And then in Windows program , move your RGB slider to 255 , that mean is full power output to all three channel.

If you have voltage meter , measure V+ and Red , V+ and Blue , V+ and Green , all should be around DC 12V.

Would you mind to take a photo for me about your connection ? I just want to reconfirm the wiring is correct.

Is that only Red color no output ? how about you connect the Red Color Wire to the Green or Blue connector ?

see above for voltage readings... will shoot pic tonite. there was one option on setup about transparent ?? without doc

[gearyt]

here are your results..

red at max r = 12v
g = 12v
b = open

grn at max r = 12v
g = 12v
b = open

blu at max r = 4v
g = 4v
b = 13v

open means mv bounce, looks like open circuit

[huggy_d1]

Hmm, looks like maybe something wrong with the wifi widget. It lets you connect the wiring, but the connector isn't all the way pressed in.

[Pete]

Personally here thought that Geary just pulled out the LED power feed plug to test it. That said it appears that with the plug not entirely fitted in.

Gary can you test the pins that go into the plug being really careful not to short anything out? (IE: remove the plug and test the pins carefully?).

[Pete]

Kevin,

I did try to take apart my RGB controller last week. I noticed that the LED indicators are pushed into the holes of the case. I couldn't slide the board out of the case.

Is it just tight?

[mrhappy]

Kevin,

I did try to take apart my RGB controller last week. I noticed that the LED indicators are pushed into the holes of the case. I couldn't slide the board out of the case.

Is it just tight?

They are pushed in but I pushed the LED's back with a small screwdriver, slid the board out (I was just looking at what was in it) and when I came to slide it back in I took off both sides and just moved the LED's back into place with some pliers. I wouldn't do it with it on though because it is possible to get the legs of the LED's to touch.

[Pete]

Thank you Mr Happy. I do have some tiny needlenose pliers; but worried that once I move the LEDs that I will damage them if I try to bend the leads some again. The board is really wedged in there and I didn't want to force anything worried about breaking it.

Yup looking to add the TTL to IP board and wiring inside of the case and keep the TTL port free outside of the case. Thing is there is not enough room to even cut the cover for an RJ-45 connector such that I was just putting the cable through the antenna hole maybe?

[mrhappy]

Yeah I wouldn't move them more than a couple of times, after that the leads are going to be weak and potentially fail. I did think of bringing the leads down to the surface (either so you could still see the LED if you looked into the hole, or try and fit a led light pipe inside it) by re-soldering it but then again I don't really see I am going to need to take it apart all that often. There ain't a great deal of room left once the wifi module is inside it.

[Kevin Lo]

They are pushed in but I pushed the LED's back with a small screwdriver, slid the board out (I was just looking at what was in it) and when I came to slide it back in I took off both sides and just moved the LED's back into place with some pliers. I wouldn't do it with it on though because it is possible to get the legs of the LED's to touch.

, if you want to look what inside ? See attachment. For v1.1 PCB , I just move the MCU reset switch location.
I didn't make a lead out pin for TTL , 3.3V and Gnd. I think I can add this in the next batch of PCB.

For the LED , I can't find a better method , unless I use a cable to lead out from PCB to the case. But after consult with factory , they prefer to direct solder the LED from PCB , just blind one time for assemble. Since I don't think user will pull them out very often.