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    Thinking outside the box (or icebox)

    HS4 Pro, 4.2.19.0 Windows 10 pro, Supermicro LP Xeon

    #2
    We have sensors in our freezers and refrigerators along with alert events if anything gets too warm. I never considered the other direction... Hmm. I think we will add events to alert if a refrigerator decides to start over cooling. Thanks for the tip.

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      #3
      Originally posted by Automated View Post
      We have sensors in our freezers and refrigerators along with alert events if anything gets too warm. I never considered the other direction... Hmm. I think we will add events to alert if a refrigerator decides to start over cooling. Thanks for the tip.
      Whooda thunk - right

      I hadn't either, but apparently this is a common problem with thermister controlled refrigerators. Most use NTC thermisters, the warmer the thermister, the higher the resistance. An open connection is high resistance, apparently a common failure mode in these devices. They don't actually open, but they develop some internal high resistance. When the resistance increases, the refrigerator control thinks it is warmer than it actually it and tries desperately to cool it down.

      The old mechanical controls weren't as accurate, but they generally were reliable.
      HS4 Pro, 4.2.19.0 Windows 10 pro, Supermicro LP Xeon

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        #4
        That is an awesome setup to carry you through until repairs can be made. For those of you who have permanent stats in your fridge/freezer what are you using and how did you get it in there? Any pictures?

        I'm a little leery of drilling fridge/freezer and hitting something in the case. I vented off a micro-fridge putting a padlock on it a long time ago and have been leery ever since!

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          #5
          Thinking outside the box (or icebox)

          I have used Oregon Scientific wireless sensors (their weather station remote sensors, together with the RFXCom plugin). You would think that the signal would get blocked, but as long as they are placed in the door/near the seal, the signal gets out just fine. I just recently pulled wires behind our kitchen one, for one of the BetaBrite signs, as well as a water leak sensor(in case there is a leak from the ice maker line). I pulled extras, so I may hook up hard wired temperature sensors to my 1-wire network, but I also need to investigate the safe way inside of the refrigerator and freezer sections. In the worst case, one can use a short run of paper thin, flat adhesive wire to run underneath the seal, though I would probably rather just stay wireless if it comes to that, as I tend to keep all the home automation hardware aesthetics as professional looking as possible.

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            #6
            The problem with putting a wireless battery powered device in the fridge is that the battery has a hard time dealing with the cold. Expect a shorter lifespan.
            - Bram

            Send from my Commodore VIC-20

            Ashai_Rey____________________________________________________________ ________________
            HS3 Pro 3.0.0.534
            PIugins: ZMC audio | ZMC VR | ZMC IR | ZMC NDS | RFXcom | AZ scripts | Jon00 Scripts | BLBackup | FritzBox | Z-Wave | mcsMQTT | AK Ikea

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              #7
              Originally posted by AshaiRey View Post
              The problem with putting a wireless battery powered device in the fridge is that the battery has a hard time dealing with the cold. Expect a shorter lifespan.
              Really? An old trick is to store batteries in the freezer, because they last longer if they are kept cold. The one issue that I know of is that batteries have a lower voltage while they are cold. This seems to be much less of an issue with lithium batteries.

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                #8
                Originally posted by AshaiRey View Post
                The problem with putting a wireless battery powered device in the fridge is that the battery has a hard time dealing with the cold. Expect a shorter lifespan.
                This is not true if one uses the properly rated batteries. I have been using the same batteries for a few years actually. If you use Lithium AA batteries, then it's a non-issue.

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                  #9
                  No matter what type of batteries you use if they are based on a chemical reaction then they will be performing less in cold. However while i wrote the previous remark i forgot to mention that this is the case for appliances that drain lots of current. You wil not notice any difference with sensors that drain very little current. Sorry for the confusion.

                  @joegr
                  You're right about storing them in the freezer. This will slow down the chemical reaction in the battery which result in slower internal discharge. Your batteries will keep their charge longer when not using them.
                  - Bram

                  Send from my Commodore VIC-20

                  Ashai_Rey____________________________________________________________ ________________
                  HS3 Pro 3.0.0.534
                  PIugins: ZMC audio | ZMC VR | ZMC IR | ZMC NDS | RFXcom | AZ scripts | Jon00 Scripts | BLBackup | FritzBox | Z-Wave | mcsMQTT | AK Ikea

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Automated View Post
                    This is not true if one uses the properly rated batteries. I have been using the same batteries for a few years actually. If you use Lithium AA batteries, then it's a non-issue.
                    AA Rating has nothing to do with this. Sure a D-type battery will last longer then a AA type but that is comparing a bucket to a glass. Both holds water only the bucket holds more. You probaly ment something like lithium batteries preform better in cold then alkaline batteries and that's true when draining them with a high current like with a photo camera. I have one that hold 4 AA type batteries. When i use Eneloop type batteries in the cold then i can make up to 200% more pictures then when using alkaline. Carbon based batteries are a absolute no go.
                    - Bram

                    Send from my Commodore VIC-20

                    Ashai_Rey____________________________________________________________ ________________
                    HS3 Pro 3.0.0.534
                    PIugins: ZMC audio | ZMC VR | ZMC IR | ZMC NDS | RFXcom | AZ scripts | Jon00 Scripts | BLBackup | FritzBox | Z-Wave | mcsMQTT | AK Ikea

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                      #11
                      Thinking outside the box (or icebox)

                      Originally posted by AshaiRey View Post
                      AA Rating has nothing to do with this. Sure a D-type battery will last longer then a AA type but that is comparing a bucket to a glass. Both holds water only the bucket holds more. You probaly ment something like lithium batteries preform better in cold then alkaline batteries and that's true when draining them with a high current like with a photo camera. I have one that hold 4 AA type batteries. When i use Eneloop type batteries in the cold then i can make up to 200% more pictures then when using alkaline. Carbon based batteries are a absolute no go.

                      Huh? I only referenced AA because that is the size battery that fits in the sensor battery compartment. I never brought up size/capacity otherwise. By rating I meant temperature rating of the battery. I was talking about battery chemistries. I have had no problem with lithium ones in the freezer with respect to how long they last.
                      Last edited by Automated; August 14, 2014, 10:29 PM.

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