X10 poll - Stay HS2 or go to HS3???

[TeleFragger]

Michael, I never used x10 preset dim in HS2 and I don't know that much about it. Are you able to dim X10 with HS3 using the absolute dim or relative dim?

Steve Q


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how do you do that? i can try tonight... even though my lights will dim I dont mess with it. I am an on or off guy... hah.. or locally dim

[Steve Q]

how do you do that? i can try tonight... even though my lights will dim I dont mess with it. I am an on or off guy... hah.. or locally dim

The CM11/TI103 plugin has a "send x10 command" action. When you choose this as an event action, you are presented with list box of 9 items. There are 2 Dim options; absolute or relative. This allows you to dim an X10 light module. It works nicely.

Note: this is totally independent of the BLRF plugin and only works for x10 power line devices.

Steve Q


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[TeleFragger]

The CM11/TI103 plugin has a "send x10 command" action. When you choose this as an event action, you are presented with list box of 9 items. There are 2 Dim options; absolute or relative. This allows you to dim an X10 light module. It works nicely.

Note: this is totally independent of the BLRF plugin and only works for x10 power line devices.

Steve Q


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cool will try...

[Uncle Michael]

Michael, I never used x10 preset dim in HS2 and I don't know that much about it. Are you able to dim X10 with HS3 using the absolute dim or relative dim?

Yes. No problem. The problem is that when I call for Preset Dim I get a conventional dim instead.

[Steve Q]

Yes. No problem. The problem is that when I call for Preset Dim I get a conventional dim instead.

OK, thanks.

I did find that you can dim to 0. (I assume you can brighten from 0, but I have not yet tried it). That being the case, could you send a Brighten to X command to achieve the same result as the preset dim value?

Steve Q


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[Uncle Michael]

Preset Dim description

For anyone interested, I've attached summary of the Preset Dim protocol. It's not as clear and concise as I'd like - and I have edited it a bit to remove some of the more wordy parts - but it's the best I've found so far. Highlighting is mine. The pdf includes a link to the source.

[Uncle Michael]

. . .could you send a Brighten to X command to achieve the same result as the preset dim value?

Unfortunately no. Each device interprets the preset dim command in its own way. An X10 thermostat may use it to adjust a setting. The Compose switches use it to select a scene.

As the document I just posted notes, the technology available when X10 first came out was not really capable of using the Prest Dim protocol. By the end of the 1990s, though, devices could easily receive and act on the more complex data, and manufacturers were being pretty creative with it.

[mfisher]

I've been in touch with Mark at HS on this and anticipate having access to the source code in the next week or so. I'll start a new thread in CM11 / TI103 Plug-in by HomeSeer once that's done and I'm ready to get started.

[TeleFragger]

I've been in touch with Mark at HS on this and anticipate having access to the source code in the next week or so. I'll start a new thread in CM11 / TI103 Plug-in by HomeSeer once that's done and I'm ready to get started.

SAWEEEEEEEEEEEET

[Steve Q]

Great news! Thanks for volunteering to do this.

Steve Q


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[mfisher]

You are welcome. Please see my post here http://board.homeseer.com/showpost.p...9&postcount=23 for some more info.

[Steve Q]

X10 poll - Stay HS2 or go to HS3???

I had a several day period where my X10 stuff on HS3 was working well. Now it is going crazy again. The TI103 seems to have developed a selective deafness to certain x10 device codes. I have X10 logging turned on.

I'm getting very discouraged! I have HS2 shut down now.

Steve Q

Update: Restarting the CM11a/TI103 plugin got everything working again. There is definitely something wrong with the plugin! I suspect it is a queuing issue with the serial port. A long time ago I wrote a script for the Cheaper RFID device. It took me a long time to figure out how to clear the port. Once it gets full, it stops communicating.

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[Gogs]

Hmm, I am wondering about this problem. Is it HS3 or the X10 Module?

I am using two XTB-232's plugged into the same power line socket, one connected to HS2 and one to HS3 and so far they are working brilliantly with both programmes.

I had a lot of problems when I connected the XM12 to HS3, I also had problems getting it to work with HS2 in the early days.

HS2 and HS3 are getting on great just now talking with both RF and the XTB's to each other.

[TeleFragger]

well i am dead in the water and havent cared.
I rented the x10 tester and got frustrated trying to figure it out. it would report a high signal and no noise then just go haywire. I unplugged everything out of EVERY outlet in the house. I was not a friendly face in the house for that.. but none the less I still had the tester telling me noise then no noise, etc...

I did however in emails to Jeff find out that maybe I need to turn the boosterlinc off in my switches. So to program my switches you turn the light off then hold the led button in for 3 seconds. This will turn the light on and the led will flash. use a palm pad (must be wireless) and hit the code you want so say G10. But you can do G10 ON for G10 and boosterlinc ON and G10 Off for Boosterlinc off. I have always set to on but were thinking that each switch is grabbing the code and repeating it all over the place.

maybe i will get some time to run around the house this weekend and program the switches (the ones that will as some seem to be ignored by the palmpad)

[Gogs]

well i am dead in the water and havent cared.
I rented the x10 tester and got frustrated trying to figure it out. it would report a high signal and no noise then just go haywire. I unplugged everything out of EVERY outlet in the house. I was not a friendly face in the house for that.. but none the less I still had the tester telling me noise then no noise, etc...

I did however in emails to Jeff find out that maybe I need to turn the boosterlinc off in my switches. So to program my switches you turn the light off then hold the led button in for 3 seconds. This will turn the light on and the led will flash. use a palm pad (must be wireless) and hit the code you want so say G10. But you can do G10 ON for G10 and boosterlinc ON and G10 Off for Boosterlinc off. I have always set to on but were thinking that each switch is grabbing the code and repeating it all over the place.

maybe i will get some time to run around the house this weekend and program the switches (the ones that will as some seem to be ignored by the palmpad)

I have found the tester very useful and also extremely sensitive.

The last time I used it was to try an find where I was loosing an X10 signal, I was getting no where, so sat down with a glass of wine, meter still plugged in and it suddenly went berserk with noise! Shout went out "What's just come on", it was the kettle, not the source of my problem.

Turned out that the problem was actually the X10 unit itself, and it was the meter that determined that, unit in no response for X10 signal, unit out, there was the X10 signal.