I would be interested in these LEDs as well if you can find a link to them
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Fibaro RGBW
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Originally posted by Blade View PostI would be interested in these LEDs as well if you can find a link to them
I am also pretty happy with the Fibaro LED controllers. I have three. The big advantage is easy Z-wave control. If you go this way, I would definitely use RGBW strips. I only have RGB and I think that the W would add some additional dimension.DSteiNeuro
HS3Pro
MSI Cubi Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-5200U CPU @ 2.20GHz, 2201 Mhz, 2 Core(s), 4 Logical Processor(s) 16GB DDRl RAM
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BLRussound, BLSpeech, HSTouch Server, JowiHue, MyQ, Nest, Rain8, Squeezebox, Ultra1Wire3, UltraGCIR3, Vista Alarm, X10,Z-Wave
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Would these work
https://montrealimport.com/en/led-st...roll-rgbw.html
I would need to use 3 of them hooked together
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I have had a look in my local Costco, and they no longer have this LED strip. It isn't the Sylvania one that DSteiNeuro found. I had purchased this a couple of years ago, and waited for something that it could do. After hearing my poor old dog roll down the stairs in the dark, I had found it
Blade: The Fibaro RGBW is for common anode LED strip (i.e. the tape will have a +12V {Or +24V} and three negatives for RGB {four negatives with RGBW} - the Fibaro module switches the negative side of the supply). You need to ensure that you have the correct polarity strip [Don't buy common cathode], and then be careful of the maximum watts drawn. The data sheet for the Fibaro module shows that it can supply 144W for a 12V strip (RGBW combined total wattage), and 288W for a 24V strip (RGBW combined total wattage). The LED strip that you have linked to does have terminals marked +,W,B,R,G so it is common anode strip.Last edited by Traction Tim; August 7, 2016, 09:44 AM. Reason: To clarify combined total RGBW wattageWin 11 Pro | HS4 Pro | Z wave plug in with UZB1 | BLUSBUIRT 2.0.11.0 | RFXtrx433 | Blue Iris CCTV | VU+ 4k with motorised dish | Emby | Hi-Phone HS2 | ESP32 with WLED |
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Anyone ever used one of these LED systems?
http://ledlightshack.com/12V-LED-Cra...-P2711640.aspx
I wonder if the Fibaro RGBW would control it
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I've set my first Fibaro RGBW controller yesterday and can some tell me why I'm not getting any Wattage reading when drawing about 62W? (@12v)
and what would be the unknown (its a sensor multilevel command class) device?
Which version of the z-wave plug in are you using ? I have HS3 Pro V3.0.0.293 and z-wave plug in version 3.0.1.87 and have similar devices, but it includes a root device. I would try excluding the Fibaro RGBW device and updating your z-wave plug in, if it is older than mine, then re-including the Fibaro RGBW device.
I have a 1m remnant of my original LED tape, and that on a second Fibaro RGBW controller shows 4.6W in HS3 when RGB are all fully ON.
Oh, and how do you know you are drawing 62W ?Win 11 Pro | HS4 Pro | Z wave plug in with UZB1 | BLUSBUIRT 2.0.11.0 | RFXtrx433 | Blue Iris CCTV | VU+ 4k with motorised dish | Emby | Hi-Phone HS2 | ESP32 with WLED |
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One of the things - I often see Sooty Paul do when he fixes my system (frequently) is checks the associations...
I have often seen reporting of power fail when there are bad associations.
I would recommend adding more information - about your module from the zwave node page. What plugin versions your using for zwave. Stick. And association details.?
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I Used 2 1/2 reels on the outside of the house under the eaves.
https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-16...CGWV36H6G871Q0
and this power supply:
https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-Water...QCJ82MADTE1AC5Michael
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Originally posted by Traction Tim View PostI have had a look in my local Costco, and they no longer have this LED strip. It isn't the Sylvania one that DSteiNeuro found. I had purchased this a couple of years ago, and waited for something that it could do. After hearing my poor old dog roll down the stairs in the dark, I had found it
Blade: The Fibaro RGBW is for common anode LED strip (i.e. the tape will have a +12V {Or +24V} and three negatives for RGB {four negatives with RGBW} - the Fibaro module switches the negative side of the supply). You need to ensure that you have the correct polarity strip [Don't buy common cathode], and then be careful of the maximum watts drawn. The data sheet for the Fibaro module shows that it can supply 144W for a 12V strip (RGBW combined total wattage), and 288W for a 24V strip (RGBW combined total wattage). The LED strip that you have linked to does have terminals marked +,W,B,R,G so it is common anode strip.
This SOLVES the mystery on why most people's "fireplace" setting is Green! I just purchased NEW rgbw pucks to replace a WW and I tied it into my existing RGBW wiring powered by the Fibaro RGBW we're talking about. Hooked up all the colors in the proper slots, but when I turned on fireplace setting my new puck shows Red, but my old one shows green... hmmm. I look closer at the wiring and I originally swapped the G and R colors (why?) know it all makes sense. My RGB strips are common Cathode, and the new pucks are Anode... now do I pull ALL 300' (yes with multiple power supplies) and re-wire with the common anode? I really would like to see the fireplace light my living room in the proper colors... right now it's more like "radioactive mode"
Thank you for explaining this!
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