A nice implementation of a whole audio A/V solution

[fresnoboy]

I have a very similar setup, i.e. a bunch of Chromecast Audio devices that feed into a Russound 16 channel amp. I had some issue with static noise so I am using the fiber optical output and then very close to the Russound I have digital to analog converters. For a couple of TVs (family room and garage) I am using an AVR.

We just put a TV into my son's room and he would like to use the ceiling speakers which currently are connected to the Chromecast Audio to Russound (which we want to keep). I am afraid I don't quite follow what you were doing to accomplish this. My limitation in his room is that I neither have Ethernet nor HDMI on that wall as I never planned to have a TV in a bedroom. He uses a Chromecast Ultra (video) as an input device (mounted on the back of the TV) and usually streams video from his phone to the Chromecast Ultra. The Russound is in a completely different area.

Btw, are you using HDBase-T for computers (4k, USB for keyboard/mouse/etc,? My computer is also in the same place where my audio stuff is (rather than in the office) but the thing started to act up from time to time so I am looking for a new device.

Well, this is painful if you don't have the wires in place to move the analog audio around. If you are less concerned about fidelity, does the TV have a headphone out or bluetooh audio option? If so, can you get a reliable bluetooth signal from that TV to the room where the Russound unit is located, and feed it with bluetooth? Or maybe at least to a room where you have wiring to the Russound, Then you can use a bluetooth to analog adapter to feed the amp.

[fresnoboy]

All,
It appears that this group (of you in this thread) know very much about the inner workings (in the year 2021, not 2007) of the Hometrollers. I have a 2 yr/old S6 Pro, and after hours working with RPrade (Colorado) in late 2018, we got the system working well. I am now having "freezing" problems, and have had the S6 controller completely crash 3 times during the past 10 days. My only recourse is a power cycle to get the system running again. Once turned back on, all log entries are gone. I'm in a position where the system NEEDS to work, as I'm away a lot. HS tech support has been very less than helpful with serious support help during the past years, and they seem to be almost out of commission.
I'm thinking that simply upgrading to the Hometroller Pro might be the best course of action, as I cannot spend weeks without a working system. This would cost over $1K but may be worth it.
Can any of you help with the steps required to fully upload my current events and devices into a new Hometroller pro from my current S6Pro? My PC is an advanced Dell Alienware system, and I do have a separate Dell laptop if required. I have my cell phone with a GUI designed by me for remote connection too (to monitor the system while away).
I know this may be a time consuming and tech-heavy process, but my PC and HS programming skills are at a high level of experience (100 events and over 250 devices of all kinds (X10, Insteon, zwave)). I don't want to rewrite all of my events and re-install all devices as this would take hundreds of hours to accomplish.
Thanks for any help. HS does not have a good owner's manual (as you all know),
Peter /// Portsmouth, NH

Peter, you are in NH, so maybe you take it to the HS offices?

I don't use the Linux version of HS< but the windows one. Are you having some hardware issues on the HomeTroller? Generally if Linux panics you'll get a dump or fault message. If it's just hanging, it could be a hardware issue. Have you posted on the hometroller forums?

[P Dawson]

Thanks for your response. I'm in Portsmouth (NH), but have had no response from HS (in Bedford, NH about an hour away). If I cannot get the system corrected, I may have to drive over to their home base. The hardware issues are on my S6Pro (bought in late 2018), and its running win10. The new "crashing" issue may be due to a new MS Win10 update, but I don't know. If I need to do a complete hardware change (to a new Hometroller Pro), will this be a huge problem??? Obviously, this is a $1K plus investment that I don't feel like making.
I've just written to another forum member who is wanting more OS information. I'll keep you posted.
Thanks,
Peter
Portsmouth, NH

[mulu]

Well, this is painful if you don't have the wires in place to move the analog audio around. If you are less concerned about fidelity, does the TV have a headphone out or bluetooh audio option? If so, can you get a reliable bluetooth signal from that TV to the room where the Russound unit is located, and feed it with bluetooth? Or maybe at least to a room where you have wiring to the Russound, Then you can use a bluetooth to analog adapter to feed the amp.

I have a couple of Ethernet ports on different walls that are not being used. They end up in the same room where the Russound is located. So I will check if I can somehow get the signal wirelessly to one of those Ethernet ports and then to the amp. Thanks!

[fresnoboy]

Thanks for your response. I'm in Portsmouth (NH), but have had no response from HS (in Bedford, NH about an hour away). If I cannot get the system corrected, I may have to drive over to their home base. The hardware issues are on my S6Pro (bought in late 2018), and its running win10. The new "crashing" issue may be due to a new MS Win10 update, but I don't know. If I need to do a complete hardware change (to a new Hometroller Pro), will this be a huge problem??? Obviously, this is a $1K plus investment that I don't feel like making.
I've just written to another forum member who is wanting more OS information. I'll keep you posted.
Thanks,
Peter
Portsmouth, NH

Peter, I am pretty sure the Hometrollers run Linux and not windows. That said, the HS configurations are supposed to be portable between them, though not all plugins run in both environments. Are you running HS3 or HS4?

[fresnoboy]

I have a couple of Ethernet ports on different walls that are not being used. They end up in the same room where the Russound is located. So I will check if I can somehow get the signal wirelessly to one of those Ethernet ports and then to the amp. Thanks!

Ah, if you have jacks nearby, you can use BT to audio converter and then a balun to use the CAT5. Alternatively, Russound actually makes one of those designed to work with their ABUS system: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-F5UIxd...und-BTA-2.html If the TV can select BT sound output, that may works pretty nicely.

Good luck.

[P Dawson]

My Hometroller S6Pro is running win 10 I'm quite sure; it's definitely not Linux as I can remember logging into it with a keyboard, mouse, and display years ago (when it was new). That was 2 years ago, and I really need some good instructions at this point,
Peter

[AshaiRey]

Peter
Not being rude or such but you are hijacking a thread for a different topic.
So the change is not very likely that someone who is able to help you will look into this thread.
Better post your question in the Hometroller part of this forum to make sure that the right people sees it.

For me, I don't have any experience with Hometroller so i can't help you with this.

[P Dawson]

Sorry Ashai,
I'll move on

[madbrain]

Just saw this thread. About 5 years ago, I setup 15 Chromecast Audios on 5 AV receivers, using multi-channel inputs. There are 3 receivers upstairs, and 2 downstairs.
I also live in CA with crazy electricity rates, so leaving all 5 receivers on 24/7 is not an option.
Each group of receivers is on a Kasa Wifi smartplug. I have to start the amps manually from my phone in the Kasa or Google Home app. I would much prefer not to have to do that.
If I had auto-sensing, I could separate smartplugs for each of the receivers, ie. 5 smartplugs instead of 2, and only turn on the specific amp(s) that correspond to the CCA(s) currently in use.

The 50-8396 switch is pretty expensive, and only has a single sense input. I would need a device with 2 or 3 sense inputs, and an identical number of outputs - ie. it would be passthrough and just detect a signal. Does such a thing exist ?

If that device had a single set of 12V output pins like the 50-8396, I could connect that output to an IoT relay, such as this :
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14236

This setup wouldn't interface with HomeSeer at all, but I think that would be fine, and actually preferable - anything that works by itself without a hub is a win in my book.

If not, maybe a device exists that has a single sense input/passthrough output, and can interface to HomeSeer somehow via Wifi/ZWave/Zigbee/etc ? And then Homeseer could turn on the desired smartplug upon receiving the sense signal; and turn off the smartplug when it's gone.

[fresnoboy]

Just saw this thread. About 5 years ago, I setup 15 Chromecast Audios on 5 AV receivers, using multi-channel inputs. There are 3 receivers upstairs, and 2 downstairs.
I also live in CA with crazy electricity rates, so leaving all 5 receivers on 24/7 is not an option.
Each group of receivers is on a Kasa Wifi smartplug. I have to start the amps manually from my phone in the Kasa or Google Home app. I would much prefer not to have to do that.
If I had auto-sensing, I could separate smartplugs for each of the receivers, ie. 5 smartplugs instead of 2, and only turn on the specific amp(s) that correspond to the CCA(s) currently in use.

The 50-8396 switch is pretty expensive, and only has a single sense input. I would need a device with 2 or 3 sense inputs, and an identical number of outputs - ie. it would be passthrough and just detect a signal. Does such a thing exist ?

If that device had a single set of 12V output pins like the 50-8396, I could connect that output to an IoT relay, such as this :
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14236

This setup wouldn't interface with HomeSeer at all, but I think that would be fine, and actually preferable - anything that works by itself without a hub is a win in my book.

If not, maybe a device exists that has a single sense input/passthrough output, and can interface to HomeSeer somehow via Wifi/ZWave/Zigbee/etc ? And then Homeseer could turn on the desired smartplug upon receiving the sense signal; and turn off the smartplug when it's gone.

The 50-8396 has some issues with needing a lot of signal to trigger the switch. Depending on how much gain is in the audio path, you could run into issues.

I have moved on from Homeseer to Home assistant, so I will answer in terms of what I do, which is to use the chromecast or androidTV status to see if a zone goes active, and if it does, to go ahead and switch the amp on. After 5 mins of the sources going inactive, I shut off power to the amps. If your receivers are controllable, then you should be able to take them out of standby by IR or network command instead of switching power, but obviously your mileage may vary.

[madbrain]

The 50-8396 has some issues with needing a lot of signal to trigger the switch. Depending on how much gain is in the audio path, you could run into issues.

Thanks, this is good to know !

I have moved on from Homeseer to Home assistant, so I will answer in terms of what I do, which is to use the chromecast or androidTV status to see if a zone goes active, and if it does, to go ahead and switch the amp on. After 5 mins of the sources going inactive, I shut off power to the amps. If your receivers are controllable, then you should be able to take them out of standby by IR or network command instead of switching power, but obviously your mileage may vary.

I have also moved to HomeAssistant, and I think it's frowned upon to discuss it in these forums. I will PM you.