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Replacing a 3-way X-10 switch?

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  • Replacing a 3-way X-10 switch?

    Hi folks,
    I'm looking for input on replacing an X-10 3-way switch I have controlling my garage lights.

    I just upgraded to LED shop lights and they're awesome, but the issue I have is that HS will turn them on but I'm assuming that they are so electrically noisy that HS can't turn them off via X-10.

    They were fine until I installed the lights this afternoon so I'm 99.9% sure I have a noise issue. I could buy plug-in noise filters ($$$) but why not take this time to upgrade this switch to Z-Wave?
    I already have Z-Wave with my system so that's why I'm looking for input.

    What switch can I buy that will control the lights and also allow the second remote (3-way) switch to control my lights as well?
    I found a Zooz Zen 21 switch on Amazon that seems to fit the bill. Thoughts?


    I appreciate the input!
    Last edited by Dan-O; August 3rd, 2018, 05:41 PM.

  • #2
    If your shop lights are not dimmable you probably need to use a WD200 Switch. I do not like to use dimmers on loads that are not dimmable.

    I replaced most of my florescent tubes with a drop in replacement LED tubes that did not require removing the existing ballast. These replacement tubes are not dimmable so I decided to use WS200 switches as opposed to WD200 dimmers to avoid the possibility of someone accidentally dimming the non-dimmable LED tubes.

    There are two was to do the multi-way switch:

    1. Use a WA100+ and use the traveler wire. Since the WS100+ is just a slave switch it does not have any status lights.

    2. Use 2 WS200 switches with the latest firmware that allows Group 2 associations. I used this method because you can link the two switches together so the status LEDs on each dimmer or switch stay in sync.


    I use method #1 when the dimmer or switch that controls the load are in the same room and/or are visible from each slave switch location. For example in my main hall I have a 3-way setup with the switches at each end of the hall. I can see the light fixture from both switch locations. Since you can visually see that the light fixture is turned on you really do not need the status LEDs in both switch locations.

    I use method #2 when not all the slave switches are in the same room and/or are visible from each slave switch location. For example I have a WD200 dimmer in my attached garage and this dimmer controls the lights in the garage. I can't see the status LEDs on the dimmer in the garage from my kitchen but I wanted to know if the garage light was on when I am in the kitchen. A WA100+ slave switch will not work because it has no status LEDs. I instead used a second WD200 and linked them together so I can tell from the kitchen if the garage light is on without have to go out to the garage.

    Here is a video on the Group 2 association and how it works.
    https://forums.homeseer.com/forum/ho...s-ws200-master

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    • #3
      Excellent. I appreciate the input.

      I use the HS Multi-sensor to alert me of the status of both the garage and front door but I'm intrigued by the LED functions of the WS200.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Dan-O View Post
        What switch can I buy that will control the lights and also allow the second remote (3-way) switch to control my lights as well?
        HS-WS100+ paired with HS-WA100+ would fill the bill. If you think you'd use the RGB Status feature, then $5 more would get you the HS-WS200+ instead. That pairs with the same companion switch.

        website | products | support | youtube

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