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  • Originally posted by rjh View Post
    Are those 3 devices switches or dimmers?
    one switch and one dimmer though the dimmer flickers 3 times before getting full light. the third seems to have righted itself

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    • How many watts is light connected to the dimmer?

      Originally posted by macrho View Post
      one switch and one dimmer though the dimmer flickers 3 times before getting full light. the third seems to have righted itself
      website | buy now | support | youtube

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      • Originally posted by jhearty View Post
        I tried setting one of my WD100s to 1%. The bottom LED did light, but the lights did too. May depend on the bulbs you are using. Mine were 4 Phillips LED bulbs, the ones with an amber color housing when off.
        I think that's totally dependant on the bulbs you use. I have some LED light that only dim to about 40%, but the ones I'm using with this dimmer, dim all the way. When I set it to 1% the light appears completely off and the bottom LED remains on. Now I gotta figure out how to measure the wattage on the line before I can call this a success. Anyone know how I can use a multimeter to measure wattage on these dimmers? I can't figure it out.

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        • Originally posted by jumper4000 View Post
          I think that's totally dependant on the bulbs you use. I have some LED light that only dim to about 40%, but the ones I'm using with this dimmer, dim all the way. When I set it to 1% the light appears completely off and the bottom LED remains on. Now I gotta figure out how to measure the wattage on the line before I can call this a success. Anyone know how I can use a multimeter to measure wattage on these dimmers? I can't figure it out.
          You can't measure wattage with a multimeter. You can measure current, then calculate the watts. In order to measure the current the meter needs to be in series with the load. Then watts=amps x volts. 100 milliamperes (.1 amps) at 125 volts would be 12.5 watts. You would want to put the meter in series with the line going into the dimmer, not the lead going out to the light.
          Randy Prade
          Aurora, CO
          Prades.net

          PHLocation - Pushover - EasyTrigger - UltraECM3 - Ultra1Wire3 - Arduino

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          • Originally posted by rjh View Post
            How many watts is light connected to the dimmer?
            11, it's a Lifx Color 1000. I have a number of these scattered throughout the house.

            The switch that goes on and off is connected to 4 of http://www.amazon.com/Hyperikon-Dual...rch_detailpage

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            • Originally posted by rprade View Post
              You can't measure wattage with a multimeter. You can measure current, then calculate the watts. In order to measure the current the meter needs to be in series with the load. Then watts=amps x volts. 100 milliamperes (.1 amps) at 125 volts would be 12.5 watts. You would want to put the meter in series with the line going into the dimmer, not the lead going out to the light.

              Thanks for your help. I think I finally got it. It looks like the dimmer uses -

              - 1.963 Watts when it's totally off (which seems a little high if you ask me. Maybe I'll compare it to my other dimmers)
              - 2.994 Watts when it's set to 1%.

              I can probably live with the extra 1 watt of power when it's set to 1%. The only issue is that now when I want to turn it back On all the way, I have to hold the up button for a few seconds. I wish we could come up with a way around that too.

              Just to be clear on one thing though, so you recomend that I put the multimeter in series with Load to measure Current, and to put it in series with Line to measure Volt? I measured both in series with Line and it seems to give me pretty accurate results.

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              • If I remember correctly about zwave switches in general, 2 to 3 watts is about normal in standby usage.

                I agree though, it does add up when you have 30 40 switches.

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                • Wow. That kind of kills the argument of using technology to conserve energy.

                  Can I assume that having 30 switches is like having a 60 watt light bulb on all the time?

                  Originally posted by waynehead99 View Post
                  If I remember correctly about zwave switches in general, 2 to 3 watts is about normal in standby usage.

                  I agree though, it does add up when you have 30 40 switches.
                  Don

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                  • Thats a lot of watts for a switch. Compare that to running HS3 on a Raspberry Pi - the entire server consumes a fraction of the switch it controls
                    HS3Pro Running on a Raspberry Pi3
                    64 Z-Wave Nodes, 168 Events, 280 Devices
                    UPB modules via OMNI plugin/panel
                    Plugins: Z-Wave, BLRF, OMNI, HSTouch, weatherXML, EasyTrigger
                    HSTouch Clients: 3 Android, 1 Joggler

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                    • HomeSeer lighting is Here!

                      I think it's funny that people think they can get into home automation thinking they will actually save money. Yea you can monitor electricity usage and manage it better, but factor in the cost of equipment bought and some of the setups, you will never have an ROI. Maybe on bigger power hogs like pools and such, but lighting? I just don't see it. Hell look at some of the more extensive setups in some of these multi million dollar houses with the huge server racks.

                      It's a hobby and as such, costs money. I enjoy it for what it is and its "cool" factor, but I am also realistic that the technology isn't there yet to be cost effective and actually save you money.

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                      • Originally posted by jumper4000 View Post
                        The only issue is that now when I want to turn it back On all the way, I have to hold the up button for a few seconds. I wish we could come up with a way around that too.
                        I added events for each switch where if the light is already on dim and HS sees a single top paddle press it sends a full on command, no press/hold required. I did this as a workaround to the firmware wish list item I asked for a few days ago where the local ramp rate config covers both press/hold and tap ramp rates and one might want slow ramp for press/hold to make it easy to get the dim level you want, but otherwise want the light to come on quickly with a single tap. So I configured local ramp slow, then the single tap event to turn it on full right after the tap.

                        John

                        P.S. I have most of the 30 extra switches I ordered installed now. No new problems so far. Regarding the one on/off/on problem I saw with a WS100, they shipped me a replacement and that so far has not had a problem so it may have been bad hardware. Time will tell.
                        Last edited by jhearty; April 28th, 2016, 10:55 AM.

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                        • Originally posted by jhearty View Post
                          I added events for each switch where if the light is already on dim and HS sees a single top paddle press it sends a full on command, no press/hold required. I did this as a workaround to the firmware wish list item I asked for a few days ago where the local ramp rate config covers both press/hold and tap ramp rates and one might want slow ramp for press/hold to make it easy to get the dim level you want, but otherwise want the light to come on quickly with a single tap. So I configured local ramp slow, then the single tap event to turn it on full right after the tap.

                          John

                          P.S. I have most of the 30 extra switches I ordered installed now. No new problems so far. Regarding the one on/off/on problem I saw with a WD100, they shipped me a replacement and that so far has not had a problem so it may have been bad hardware. Time will tell.
                          Personal preference here maybe, but I would like it to work like the GE switches they are replacing in my house. One setting for local ramp control and one for remote ramp control. Right now we only have local ramp control.

                          Personally if I bought a dimmer, I want it to act like a dimmer all around. There shouldn't be a need for instant on, otherwise I would've purchased a switch that was on/off. Also the dimming affect to add life to the bulbs (haven't replaced an incandescent bulb in 4 years) because they don't get blasted on.

                          Right now my only issue with this switch is with remote control, it is instant on and I hate getting blasted with light when I have been used to a gradual ramp up rate. Plus it just looks more professional and polished when it ramps up.

                          But this is just me.

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                          • Everyone has their preference, for me I would never have a light come on slowly and its mainly because I use motion sensors to turn on the lights and I want the light to come on immediately so I don't fall over something!

                            Originally posted by waynehead99 View Post
                            Personal preference here maybe, but I would like it to work like the GE switches they are replacing in my house. One setting for local ramp control and one for remote ramp control. Right now we only have local ramp control.

                            Personally if I bought a dimmer, I want it to act like a dimmer all around. There shouldn't be a need for instant on, otherwise I would've purchased a switch that was on/off. Also the dimming affect to add life to the bulbs (haven't replaced an incandescent bulb in 4 years) because they don't get blasted on.

                            Right now my only issue with this switch is with remote control, it is instant on and I hate getting blasted with light when I have been used to a gradual ramp up rate. Plus it just looks more professional and polished when it ramps up.

                            But this is just me.
                            website | buy now | support | youtube

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                            • Originally posted by jhearty View Post
                              I added events for each switch where if the light is already on dim and HS sees a single top paddle press it sends a full on command, no press/hold required. I did this as a workaround to the firmware wish list item I asked for a few days ago where the local ramp rate config covers both press/hold and tap ramp rates and one might want slow ramp for press/hold to make it easy to get the dim level you want, but otherwise want the light to come on quickly with a single tap. So I configured local ramp slow, then the single tap event to turn it on full right after the tap.

                              John

                              P.S. I have most of the 30 extra switches I ordered installed now. No new problems so far. Regarding the one on/off/on problem I saw with a WS100, they shipped me a replacement and that so far has not had a problem so it may have been bad hardware. Time will tell.
                              Ooooh, good solution. I'll give it a try. Thanks.

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by waynehead99 View Post
                                Personally if I bought a dimmer, I want it to act like a dimmer all around. There shouldn't be a need for instant on, otherwise I would've purchased a switch that was on/off. Also the dimming affect to add life to the bulbs (haven't replaced an incandescent bulb in 4 years) because they don't get blasted on.
                                I like jhearty's solution. I think the way it'll work is that if you tap the button, it'll go all the way up, but if you hold it, it'll ramp up/down like a dimmer. His solution, in addition to creating an Event to set the dimmer to 1% (so the bottom LED turns On) will I think make this dimmer perfect for me. I'll order like 10 more

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