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  • donstephens
    replied
    Issues with HS-WD100+

    Just got one to try out. Gotta say it's much faster than the switch it replaced.
    However, I"m getting an error when I rescan the device.

    PHP Code:
    Apr-28 4:08:26 PM         Z-Wave    Node9 Supports Class(es): SWITCH_MULTILEVEL_V2SWITCH_ALLPROTECTION
    Apr
    -28 4:08:26 PM         Z-Wave Warning    Node 9 does not support the manufacturer specific command class - it is either a really old device or there was a communications problem.
    Apr-28 4:08:26 PM         Z-Wave    Syncing Z-Wave nodes with device list... 
    This is with the latest Z-Wave plugin and HS3 Pro Edition 3.0.0.208 using a Z-Troller. I have no instant status, or any settings other than the 'all on and all off' setting.

    Anyone else having this problem?

    Leave a comment:


  • waynehead99
    replied
    His solution works well for local control which has never been an issue for me. I just think it weird that at the switch it comes on and off nice and smooth, but if you turn it on from HS, it goes to 100 percent instantly, and turns off slowly. Why?

    My ides would take into account everyone's needs. If you want it to be on quickly, site the ramp rate low.

    I know there is personal preference all around and you can't make everyone happy. As I stated above, overall I am very happy with the switch and will order more.

    Only concern I would have about setting the switch to 1 percent to make the LED lit is longevity of not only the switch, but also the bulbs connected. Though they won't turn on, power is still running to them. But this might be me being overly sensitive and it's a non-issue.

    Leave a comment:


  • jumper4000
    replied
    Originally posted by waynehead99 View Post
    Personally if I bought a dimmer, I want it to act like a dimmer all around. There shouldn't be a need for instant on, otherwise I would've purchased a switch that was on/off. Also the dimming affect to add life to the bulbs (haven't replaced an incandescent bulb in 4 years) because they don't get blasted on.
    I like jhearty's solution. I think the way it'll work is that if you tap the button, it'll go all the way up, but if you hold it, it'll ramp up/down like a dimmer. His solution, in addition to creating an Event to set the dimmer to 1% (so the bottom LED turns On) will I think make this dimmer perfect for me. I'll order like 10 more

    Leave a comment:


  • jumper4000
    replied
    Originally posted by jhearty View Post
    I added events for each switch where if the light is already on dim and HS sees a single top paddle press it sends a full on command, no press/hold required. I did this as a workaround to the firmware wish list item I asked for a few days ago where the local ramp rate config covers both press/hold and tap ramp rates and one might want slow ramp for press/hold to make it easy to get the dim level you want, but otherwise want the light to come on quickly with a single tap. So I configured local ramp slow, then the single tap event to turn it on full right after the tap.

    John

    P.S. I have most of the 30 extra switches I ordered installed now. No new problems so far. Regarding the one on/off/on problem I saw with a WS100, they shipped me a replacement and that so far has not had a problem so it may have been bad hardware. Time will tell.
    Ooooh, good solution. I'll give it a try. Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • rjh
    replied
    Everyone has their preference, for me I would never have a light come on slowly and its mainly because I use motion sensors to turn on the lights and I want the light to come on immediately so I don't fall over something!

    Originally posted by waynehead99 View Post
    Personal preference here maybe, but I would like it to work like the GE switches they are replacing in my house. One setting for local ramp control and one for remote ramp control. Right now we only have local ramp control.

    Personally if I bought a dimmer, I want it to act like a dimmer all around. There shouldn't be a need for instant on, otherwise I would've purchased a switch that was on/off. Also the dimming affect to add life to the bulbs (haven't replaced an incandescent bulb in 4 years) because they don't get blasted on.

    Right now my only issue with this switch is with remote control, it is instant on and I hate getting blasted with light when I have been used to a gradual ramp up rate. Plus it just looks more professional and polished when it ramps up.

    But this is just me.

    Leave a comment:


  • waynehead99
    replied
    Originally posted by jhearty View Post
    I added events for each switch where if the light is already on dim and HS sees a single top paddle press it sends a full on command, no press/hold required. I did this as a workaround to the firmware wish list item I asked for a few days ago where the local ramp rate config covers both press/hold and tap ramp rates and one might want slow ramp for press/hold to make it easy to get the dim level you want, but otherwise want the light to come on quickly with a single tap. So I configured local ramp slow, then the single tap event to turn it on full right after the tap.

    John

    P.S. I have most of the 30 extra switches I ordered installed now. No new problems so far. Regarding the one on/off/on problem I saw with a WD100, they shipped me a replacement and that so far has not had a problem so it may have been bad hardware. Time will tell.
    Personal preference here maybe, but I would like it to work like the GE switches they are replacing in my house. One setting for local ramp control and one for remote ramp control. Right now we only have local ramp control.

    Personally if I bought a dimmer, I want it to act like a dimmer all around. There shouldn't be a need for instant on, otherwise I would've purchased a switch that was on/off. Also the dimming affect to add life to the bulbs (haven't replaced an incandescent bulb in 4 years) because they don't get blasted on.

    Right now my only issue with this switch is with remote control, it is instant on and I hate getting blasted with light when I have been used to a gradual ramp up rate. Plus it just looks more professional and polished when it ramps up.

    But this is just me.

    Leave a comment:


  • jhearty
    replied
    Originally posted by jumper4000 View Post
    The only issue is that now when I want to turn it back On all the way, I have to hold the up button for a few seconds. I wish we could come up with a way around that too.
    I added events for each switch where if the light is already on dim and HS sees a single top paddle press it sends a full on command, no press/hold required. I did this as a workaround to the firmware wish list item I asked for a few days ago where the local ramp rate config covers both press/hold and tap ramp rates and one might want slow ramp for press/hold to make it easy to get the dim level you want, but otherwise want the light to come on quickly with a single tap. So I configured local ramp slow, then the single tap event to turn it on full right after the tap.

    John

    P.S. I have most of the 30 extra switches I ordered installed now. No new problems so far. Regarding the one on/off/on problem I saw with a WS100, they shipped me a replacement and that so far has not had a problem so it may have been bad hardware. Time will tell.
    Last edited by jhearty; April 28th, 2016, 10:55 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • waynehead99
    replied
    HomeSeer lighting is Here!

    I think it's funny that people think they can get into home automation thinking they will actually save money. Yea you can monitor electricity usage and manage it better, but factor in the cost of equipment bought and some of the setups, you will never have an ROI. Maybe on bigger power hogs like pools and such, but lighting? I just don't see it. Hell look at some of the more extensive setups in some of these multi million dollar houses with the huge server racks.

    It's a hobby and as such, costs money. I enjoy it for what it is and its "cool" factor, but I am also realistic that the technology isn't there yet to be cost effective and actually save you money.

    Leave a comment:


  • rmasonjr
    replied
    Thats a lot of watts for a switch. Compare that to running HS3 on a Raspberry Pi - the entire server consumes a fraction of the switch it controls

    Leave a comment:


  • donstephens
    replied
    Wow. That kind of kills the argument of using technology to conserve energy.

    Can I assume that having 30 switches is like having a 60 watt light bulb on all the time?

    Originally posted by waynehead99 View Post
    If I remember correctly about zwave switches in general, 2 to 3 watts is about normal in standby usage.

    I agree though, it does add up when you have 30 40 switches.

    Leave a comment:


  • waynehead99
    replied
    If I remember correctly about zwave switches in general, 2 to 3 watts is about normal in standby usage.

    I agree though, it does add up when you have 30 40 switches.

    Leave a comment:


  • jumper4000
    replied
    Originally posted by rprade View Post
    You can't measure wattage with a multimeter. You can measure current, then calculate the watts. In order to measure the current the meter needs to be in series with the load. Then watts=amps x volts. 100 milliamperes (.1 amps) at 125 volts would be 12.5 watts. You would want to put the meter in series with the line going into the dimmer, not the lead going out to the light.

    Thanks for your help. I think I finally got it. It looks like the dimmer uses -

    - 1.963 Watts when it's totally off (which seems a little high if you ask me. Maybe I'll compare it to my other dimmers)
    - 2.994 Watts when it's set to 1%.

    I can probably live with the extra 1 watt of power when it's set to 1%. The only issue is that now when I want to turn it back On all the way, I have to hold the up button for a few seconds. I wish we could come up with a way around that too.

    Just to be clear on one thing though, so you recomend that I put the multimeter in series with Load to measure Current, and to put it in series with Line to measure Volt? I measured both in series with Line and it seems to give me pretty accurate results.

    Leave a comment:


  • macrho
    replied
    Originally posted by rjh View Post
    How many watts is light connected to the dimmer?
    11, it's a Lifx Color 1000. I have a number of these scattered throughout the house.

    The switch that goes on and off is connected to 4 of http://www.amazon.com/Hyperikon-Dual...rch_detailpage

    Leave a comment:


  • rprade
    replied
    Originally posted by jumper4000 View Post
    I think that's totally dependant on the bulbs you use. I have some LED light that only dim to about 40%, but the ones I'm using with this dimmer, dim all the way. When I set it to 1% the light appears completely off and the bottom LED remains on. Now I gotta figure out how to measure the wattage on the line before I can call this a success. Anyone know how I can use a multimeter to measure wattage on these dimmers? I can't figure it out.
    You can't measure wattage with a multimeter. You can measure current, then calculate the watts. In order to measure the current the meter needs to be in series with the load. Then watts=amps x volts. 100 milliamperes (.1 amps) at 125 volts would be 12.5 watts. You would want to put the meter in series with the line going into the dimmer, not the lead going out to the light.

    Leave a comment:


  • jumper4000
    replied
    Originally posted by jhearty View Post
    I tried setting one of my WD100s to 1%. The bottom LED did light, but the lights did too. May depend on the bulbs you are using. Mine were 4 Phillips LED bulbs, the ones with an amber color housing when off.
    I think that's totally dependant on the bulbs you use. I have some LED light that only dim to about 40%, but the ones I'm using with this dimmer, dim all the way. When I set it to 1% the light appears completely off and the bottom LED remains on. Now I gotta figure out how to measure the wattage on the line before I can call this a success. Anyone know how I can use a multimeter to measure wattage on these dimmers? I can't figure it out.

    Leave a comment:

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