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  • waynehead99
    replied
    If I remember correctly about zwave switches in general, 2 to 3 watts is about normal in standby usage.

    I agree though, it does add up when you have 30 40 switches.

    Leave a comment:


  • jumper4000
    replied
    Originally posted by rprade View Post
    You can't measure wattage with a multimeter. You can measure current, then calculate the watts. In order to measure the current the meter needs to be in series with the load. Then watts=amps x volts. 100 milliamperes (.1 amps) at 125 volts would be 12.5 watts. You would want to put the meter in series with the line going into the dimmer, not the lead going out to the light.

    Thanks for your help. I think I finally got it. It looks like the dimmer uses -

    - 1.963 Watts when it's totally off (which seems a little high if you ask me. Maybe I'll compare it to my other dimmers)
    - 2.994 Watts when it's set to 1%.

    I can probably live with the extra 1 watt of power when it's set to 1%. The only issue is that now when I want to turn it back On all the way, I have to hold the up button for a few seconds. I wish we could come up with a way around that too.

    Just to be clear on one thing though, so you recomend that I put the multimeter in series with Load to measure Current, and to put it in series with Line to measure Volt? I measured both in series with Line and it seems to give me pretty accurate results.

    Leave a comment:


  • macrho
    replied
    Originally posted by rjh View Post
    How many watts is light connected to the dimmer?
    11, it's a Lifx Color 1000. I have a number of these scattered throughout the house.

    The switch that goes on and off is connected to 4 of http://www.amazon.com/Hyperikon-Dual...rch_detailpage

    Leave a comment:


  • rprade
    replied
    Originally posted by jumper4000 View Post
    I think that's totally dependant on the bulbs you use. I have some LED light that only dim to about 40%, but the ones I'm using with this dimmer, dim all the way. When I set it to 1% the light appears completely off and the bottom LED remains on. Now I gotta figure out how to measure the wattage on the line before I can call this a success. Anyone know how I can use a multimeter to measure wattage on these dimmers? I can't figure it out.
    You can't measure wattage with a multimeter. You can measure current, then calculate the watts. In order to measure the current the meter needs to be in series with the load. Then watts=amps x volts. 100 milliamperes (.1 amps) at 125 volts would be 12.5 watts. You would want to put the meter in series with the line going into the dimmer, not the lead going out to the light.

    Leave a comment:


  • jumper4000
    replied
    Originally posted by jhearty View Post
    I tried setting one of my WD100s to 1%. The bottom LED did light, but the lights did too. May depend on the bulbs you are using. Mine were 4 Phillips LED bulbs, the ones with an amber color housing when off.
    I think that's totally dependant on the bulbs you use. I have some LED light that only dim to about 40%, but the ones I'm using with this dimmer, dim all the way. When I set it to 1% the light appears completely off and the bottom LED remains on. Now I gotta figure out how to measure the wattage on the line before I can call this a success. Anyone know how I can use a multimeter to measure wattage on these dimmers? I can't figure it out.

    Leave a comment:


  • rjh
    replied
    How many watts is light connected to the dimmer?

    Originally posted by macrho View Post
    one switch and one dimmer though the dimmer flickers 3 times before getting full light. the third seems to have righted itself

    Leave a comment:


  • macrho
    replied
    Originally posted by rjh View Post
    Are those 3 devices switches or dimmers?
    one switch and one dimmer though the dimmer flickers 3 times before getting full light. the third seems to have righted itself

    Leave a comment:


  • rjh
    replied
    Are those 3 devices switches or dimmers?

    Originally posted by macrho View Post
    Finished the install of all my light switches and am seeing only 3 that have the issue when you power on that the light initially lights, then dims to off and then comes on again. I have somewhere near 30 or so dimmers/switches and companions.

    I am liking the scenes you can do with them: In the master bathroom, a double tap up will resume the album I was listening to in LMS and turn lights on. A double down will shut the lights and pause the music.

    Leave a comment:


  • rjh
    replied
    Scene 1 is a press on the top paddle, scene 2 is a press on the bottom paddle. Look at the scene device on the device management page then press the paddle to see the various scene #'s. You can also look at the status/graphics tab on the scene device, it will list what each scene # is. Think of a scene as a status.

    Originally posted by happnatious1 View Post
    Thanks mark, I would never have found that!

    Whats the difference between scene 1 and scene 2?

    Leave a comment:


  • macrho
    replied
    Finished the install of all my light switches and am seeing only 3 that have the issue when you power on that the light initially lights, then dims to off and then comes on again. I have somewhere near 30 or so dimmers/switches and companions.

    I am liking the scenes you can do with them: In the master bathroom, a double tap up will resume the album I was listening to in LMS and turn lights on. A double down will shut the lights and pause the music.

    Leave a comment:


  • happnatious1
    replied
    Originally posted by macromark View Post
    You don't use the Z-Wave scene trigger. You use the trigger 'Device is set to' and then use the central scene device that's created when you add the switch to your system. The device appears in a screen shot from this post: http://board.homeseer.com/showpost.p...9&postcount=15
    Thanks mark, I would never have found that!

    Whats the difference between scene 1 and scene 2?
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • cheeryfool
    replied
    The abort button on the iOS app isn't working either. I also can't get the Add New Room option to allow me to type in a new room. It does collapse the pick list and you'd them expect to be able to click into the name space, but wherever you click on that row it doesn't enable editing. At least for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • macromark
    replied
    Originally posted by happnatious1 View Post
    I'm confused, I'm trying to run an event using a triple tap and I get this:
    You don't use the Z-Wave scene trigger. You use the trigger 'Device is set to' and then use the central scene device that's created when you add the switch to your system. The device appears in a screen shot from this post: http://board.homeseer.com/showpost.p...9&postcount=15

    Leave a comment:


  • Kaze
    replied
    Just updated Zwave Plug-In to 66 and Z-Wave Controller went crazy with ZNET spitting out a bunch of errors. Then went to Beta on 71 and that fixed the issue.
    (Though on 71, the abort button on my ZNET Android App, no longer works).

    Does anyone know how to enter exclusion mode the device?
    I had to reset the breaker and press the device to enter it.
    But prefer a method where touching the breaker isn't necessary.

    Leave a comment:


  • TechFan
    replied
    Originally posted by SeaOtter View Post
    Current version is: HS3 ZEE S2 Edition 3.0.0.280
    Z-Wave 3.0.1.66

    Is there a formal display of a support profile?

    I just updated the Z-Wave plugin software and rebooted the ZEE S2 and only see the on/off toggle of the root device. If I go to the z-wave tab for the device I can set the "switch reverse", "LED Mode", and response to "all on, all off commands" thats all that is there.
    Click on the device to open the details. . .go to the ZWave tab, then click the rescan button. For me, that usually allows the device to pick up the new functionality of the updated ZWave plugin. If that doesn't do it, then you need to remove and re-add the switch.

    Leave a comment:

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