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    #16
    I had three or four WS100 switches die in the first year or so after installation. I can't recall if all of them had the flashing light, but on those that were flashing I didn't find a way to revive them or exclude them. In the last eighteen months, I haven't had any failures.

    Kevin

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      #17
      Thanks for the updates. Maybe I will have to try WD200's but I don't really need dimming capability where I had the WS100's. Hopefully the new ones are better and maybe the old ones were a bad batch (fingers crossed).

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        #18
        I found this youtube on how to repair switches. These are GE switches but look very similar to the WS100 and the problem he is fixing appears to be exactly the same, with the blinking light. I don't know if I am ready for this LOL, but it involves taking the switch apart, and replacing a faulty capacitor in the switch. Here is the youtube I found https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsDTi53qq4Q. Maybe I should try to take apart one of my switches that failed and see if it looks the same inside.

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          #19
          Send an email to returns@homeseer.com and mention that Rich told you to send the email. Someone will get back to you.

          Originally posted by wilsondg View Post
          This post seems to have died, but just wondering if anybody has a solution to this, or are the switches truly dead? I have had four of these WS100 switches die now, getting tired of replacing them, getting costly. They only lasted about a year or so. Seems to be a high failure rate with these switches. They are completely dead. Power off/on does nothing to fix them, trying to reset them does nothing.
          website | buy now | support | youtube

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            #20
            I lost a WS200+ today with exactly the same symptoms as those the OP reported after a power outage. Thanks to Wilsondg's post I can confirm that replacing the 10uf feedback capacitor in the switching supply fixes the problem.

            I didn't have a low ESR 10uf cap handy but I did have a nice 22uf 50v Panasonic FM series cap that the LNK304 datasheet suggested would be fine and it was.

            I don't recommend attempting the repair if you don't have a temp controlled soldering iron or a desoldering station and the skills to use them.

            After seeing the cap in question I suspect the long term failure rate is going to be close to 100%. A few pennies more on the BOM would help.

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              #21
              I had a power failure, and on power up 4 WS100+ were blining and non functional.

              I looked at the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsDTi53qq4Q

              I was able to repair all 4 switches by swapping out a 20c cap (used 10uf 50V, a little larger, and I suspect lower ESR than the original.

              In any case some pointers to fix them - got good at the end

              Take screws off like in the video.
              The back cover comes off by prying the sides a little to get the tabs to come off (on each side)
              Unsolder the vertical brass pins. Ideally use a solder wick to pick up the excess solder - will make reassembly easier.
              Don't unsolder the 6 pin connect - too difficult, just twist it enough to have access to the cap solder joints.
              Grab the cap with needle nose pliers, and desolder from below - it should pop out easy. My caps measure 4 - 7 uF (have no way to test ESR).
              Solder wick was difficult to get inside the small area - so I just drilled the PCB holes with a number 68 drill straight through (from the component side to the trace side).
              I soldered the replacement caps - make sure the - goes to the side with the bar on the white silk screen on the PCB.
              Twist back the PCBs, and solder the vertical struts.
              Screw the exterior screws (Black x2, White and Gold) onto the brass PCB connectors before putting them back into the housing. If you screw them in first, it assembles much quicker. Place the top covers, and don't forget the ground screw or the LED light pipe,

              Should work perfectly - takes about 5 minutes after the first few.

              IK have about 40-50 of them (about 5 yrs old), and I suspect I will be replacing the caps on each of them over the next few years.

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                #22
                I've had 3 WD-200's fail in the same manner in the last month (out of a population of ~80 of them, all installed in a new construction home about 2.5 years ago). Despite being very comfortable with a soldering iron, I'm not comfortable putting switches with home-modified capacitors back into service. I'm replacing the failed units with the 300 series dimmer/switches. The failed units are all out of warranty at this point. Happily it's a fast and easy swap out for the 300 series. Having said that, I really wasn't planning on spending another ~$8k on replacing all the existing switches, and if I have to, I'll probably choose another vendor's switches. The question is, is the HS 300 series using the same capacitors in the power supply? Has anyone torn one open to check? I've got a spare, and I'm tempted to find out myself before buying more of them.

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                  #23
                  Make that WS-200s. I have no WD-200s in this house.

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