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    Wiring for "companion" WD200

    hey all... here with my electrician trying to setup a 3-way using two WD200s.

    for the life of me, i can't actually find how you wire up the WD200 as a companion? No traveler, just power and neutral?

    thanks.

    #2
    Hate to say this - I tried all weekend to get two dimmers to work 3-way never did. Also tried one dimmer and s companion- nope - regular 3-way works fine -

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      #3
      Originally posted by Tomgru View Post
      hey all... here with my electrician trying to setup a 3-way using two WD200s.

      for the life of me, i can't actually find how you wire up the WD200 as a companion? No traveler, just power and neutral?

      thanks.
      My $0.02. I'd wire it like a traditional 3-way, with traveler, in case you or someone else wants to de-automate in the future. But to answer the question, if you're using 2 HS-WD200+ devices then you do not need a traveler. One location can be wired as a standard switch and the other needs only have power (hot, neutral, ground) to power the HS-WD200+ device. The 3-way "connection" will be handled by homeseer.
      -Wade

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        #4
        Originally posted by cc4005 View Post

        My $0.02. I'd wire it like a traditional 3-way, with traveler, in case you or someone else wants to de-automate in the future. But to answer the question, if you're using 2 HS-WD200+ devices then you do not need a traveler. One location can be wired as a standard switch and the other needs only have power (hot, neutral, ground) to power the HS-WD200+ device. The 3-way "connection" will be handled by homeseer.
        Thanks, totally understand. I'm actually only doing this in 2 areas in were just moving in so I hope to be there for 10 years and not worry about the next owners .

        That said, my understanding is that you cannot use the actual dimmer as a companion switch, even if you add the traveler wire. If you could, you would never need to go the route using the Association feature.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Tomgru View Post
          That said, my understanding is that you cannot use the actual dimmer as a companion switch, even if you add the traveler wire.
          Correct. You would still wire it up with one switch controlling the load and the other switch powered but no load control. I.e., use the traveler to send the hot to the 2nd switch.
          -Wade

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            #6
            OMG - Wade - That is EXACTLY the answer I needed - I spent 2 days searching the forums - google - .... I tried almost every thing - So - Sw1 setup as if it were a single biut use the traveler - SW2 Traveler goes to line? to power the switch -- Then group the two switches together? - Can this be done using a Z-200+ (not dimmer) - I want the LED on both switches but I've decided the dimmer was over kill and the LED in the can isn't playing nice..

            Thanks

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              #7
              Originally posted by harvito View Post
              OMG - Wade - That is EXACTLY the answer I needed - I spent 2 days searching the forums - google - .... I tried almost every thing - So - Sw1 setup as if it were a single biut use the traveler - SW2 Traveler goes to line? to power the switch -- Then group the two switches together? - Can this be done using a Z-200+ (not dimmer) - I want the LED on both switches but I've decided the dimmer was over kill and the LED in the can isn't playing nice..

              Thanks
              I think you've got it...BTW this is assuming mains power enters the lighting circuit at Sw1... Hot connects to Line on Sw1 as well as to the traveler. Switch leg connects to Sw1 Load. At Sw2, connect the traveler to Line and nothing to Load. Nut off the switch leg at Sw2. Neutrals connect as usual at both switches.

              My understanding is the HS-WS200+ switches have the same association capability as the WD200+, but I don't have any direct experience with them.
              -Wade

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                #8
                If your electrician is handling this then I'm sure he'll get it but my explanation above bypassed a couple details at the lighting box that are critical. I've assumed you started with this configuration.
                Click image for larger version

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                From Load on Sw1, the switch leg would now be wired directly to the light fixture rather than to the neutral leading to Sw2. The neutral from Sw2 would be nutted together with the Sw1 and Light fixture neutrals at the light fixture box. The switch leg between the light fixture and Sw2 won't be used. As I said before, the traveler connects the Line at Sw1 to Line at Sw2, passing through the light fixture box as shown here.

                I can draw up the actual configuration if needed.
                -Wade

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                  #9
                  Ok guys I'm not good at this wiring stuff so I hope someone can help me. I'll attach two pics of my wiring and I'm wanting to wire two WD200's and associate the two switches together.
                  The second picture is the switch that has the power coming into the switch. So how would this translate to a new WD200? Thanks in advance.
                  Click image for larger version  Name:	20190820_200157.jpg Views:	0 Size:	63.2 KB ID:	1321975
                  Attached Files
                  -Rupp
                  sigpic

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                    #10
                    I thought you needed 1 WD200 and one dedicated companion switch? I'm not 100% sure using 2 WD200's will work.

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                      #11
                      Rupp Many times there isn't mains power in the second box in a traditional 3-way switch situation. If you happen to already have power there--and you likely do since there's another switch in that box--you won't need it either, and can cap it off at both ends. If you don't have mains power in that second box then you'll need to use the traveler to run mains power from the 1st box to the 2nd box to provide a hot to your 2nd WD200. In that case you would connect the traveler to the hot in the first box and to the line input on the WD200 in the 2nd box. You won't have anything connected to the load terminal on that 2nd switch, and the old load wire in that box should be nutted off. Make sense? I can do a sketch if you need it.

                      edit: misread your description of the images the first time...sounds like you do need to use the traveler to get the hot over to the 2nd box.
                      -Wade

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                        #12
                        Rupp Best I can tell from the images you will need something like this. The box on the left in the sketch represents the box in your bottom image. The load will only connect to one of the WD200s. The second WD200 won't have anything on the load terminal. Neither will have anything connected to the traveler terminal. I've not drawn the ground conductors but obviously both switches must be grounded.

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	Capture.PNG Views:	0 Size:	285.1 KB ID:	1322044

                        Keep in mind that changes could have been made to existing wiring so that conductors aren't used as expected. If you're uncertain about the existing configuration you really should get an electrician to check it out. Don't just go by wire color.
                        -Wade

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                          #13
                          Wade,
                          Thanks for the diagram. I think I have this but want to make sure. Both of my boxes have hot thanks to the white wire in the first picture labeled hot being nutted to the black in the second pic. So this is my question - can I just reuse my red traveler wire as a neutral/white from second pic to the box in the first pic?
                          So to use 2 WD 200+ one needs neutral , power/line. The other needs neutral, power/line, and load? Correct?
                          -Rupp
                          sigpic

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Rupp View Post
                            So to use 2 WD 200+ one needs neutral , power/line. The other needs neutral, power/line, and load? Correct?
                            That is correct.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by drhtmal View Post

                              That is correct.
                              Perfect. Thanks.
                              -Rupp
                              sigpic

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