Use Z-Wave with existing switches

[brittonsm]

I'm trying to figure out how to do this and can't seem to locate an answer.

I have very nice wall switches in my house that I don't want to replace the existing switched, but I do want to be able to control them via Z-Wave. I realize that most likely the switch would have to be turned on to use the controller - but is there a way I can wire in a Z-Wave controller behind the switches? If so - can you link the item below please?

[baudfather]

I'd say most likely no, as there wouldn't be room in the box. If you found a device that could do it, it's highly unprobable that it's UL or CSA approved and wouldn't be worth the risk putting a cheap no-name import device in there that could void your insurance in case of a fire. Possible: yes; advisable: no.

[cowinger]

I'm trying to figure out how to do this and can't seem to locate an answer.

I have very nice wall switches in my house that I don't want to replace the existing switched, but I do want to be able to control them via Z-Wave. I realize that most likely the switch would have to be turned on to use the controller - but is there a way I can wire in a Z-Wave controller behind the switches? If so - can you link the item below please?

Maybe one of these would be of interest to you.

https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/col.../z-wave-relays

[randy]

Aeotec made micro dimmers and switches, then replaced them with nano dimmers and switches. They are designed to go behind a standard switch. There are some micro dimmers around here are some. Amazon has them as well. Just Google “Aeotec Nano Dimmer” or “Aeotec Nano Switch”.

Qubino and Fibaro also make similar devices.

[ksum]

Are your current wall switches capable of dimming? If yes you would not be able to control that feature. If no, do you want that capability?

Are the ones you want to control 3-way switches?

[RoChess]

Also don't fear if there's not enough room inside the junction box the existing switch is in (if it's extremely large), but then it is important that BOTH switch wires can be separated from the main circuit power.

You then place the Z-Wave switch/relay, or dimmer near the light inside box or housing, and wire the two switch wires into the input switch side. This only works if hot+neutral are both available near light.

Aeotec micro, Aeotec nano, Qubino, Fibaro, Remotec, Philo, and many more Z-Wave nodes would be capable of this.

Some of them allow AC power on the switch control input so you don't need to separate the existing switch wires, which might be needed if switch junction box splits off hot/neutral that switch uses to an outlet.

If Z-Wave controller fails for whatever reason you'll retain full direct control via the existing switch.

Just keep in mind that unless your existing switches are already momentary based that up=on, and down=off on the switch will swap if you issue a Z-Wave command. In some cases you might be forced to toggle the switch manually to bring it in sync.

Unless you get momentary switches ($5), or digital ones such as Aeotec WallSwipe companion, then there's no way around it, but then you can also consider the HomeSeer 200 range of devices that are on sale right now.

PS: Read manual closely as some nodes require Z-Wave parameter configuration on what type of switch is hooked up, be it regular, momentary, pulse, etc. Most modern ones can auto detect though.

[ksum]

A non z-wave option without dimming capability is to get the Sonoff Mini and flash it with Tasmota, which keeps control off the internet. If you already have MQTT set up you are set. Otherwise you would then need to add an MQTT Broker such as Mosguitto and the MQTT plugin to HomeSeer. These Sonoff units can be flashed over WiFi and are small enough to fit in the box. You connect the house wiring (neutral and hot) to the Sonoff and then run wires from the Sonoff to either side of the switch. When the states of the switch changes it toggles the relay in the Sonoff, which also sends an MQTT subject reporting the change. HomeSeer can receive that to know the current On/Off status. HomeSeer can also send an MQTT subject to turn the Sonoff On or Off. So the switch itself is not passing power to the light. Also, it acts like a 3-way switch so if it is an up/down toggle and the light is off, flipping the switch turns it on, regardless of how it works now.

I believe Shelly makes a comparable model as well.

There is also a Sonoff and a Shelly plugin if you don't flash the unit but I have not tried those since I use MQTT for other things and only have 2 Sonoff units I'm testing.

[Vit]

Paddle toggle switches can, with minor modifications, be converted to momentary. I have regular Lutron, Legrand and Cooper Aspire that I modified to operate as momentary; they control Aeotec and Qubino relays and dimmers just fine.

[BobSpen]

Paddle toggle switches can, with minor modifications, be converted to momentary. I have regular Lutron, Legrand and Cooper Aspire that I modified to operate as momentary; they control Aeotec and Qubino relays and dimmers just fine.

Could you show/explain how--I occasionally need a momentary.

[drhtmal]

Paddle toggle switches can, with minor modifications, be converted to momentary. I have regular Lutron, Legrand and Cooper Aspire that I modified to operate as momentary; they control Aeotec and Qubino relays and dimmers just fine.

I was skeptical... however here are a few videos below

It is cleaver hack, however how do you make the press on the bottom of the paddle turn off the light?. The decora style paddle switch turns on the load when the top is pressed and turns off the load when the bottom of the paddle is pressed. Pressing on the top toggles the internal contact on/closed and pressing the bottom toggles the internal contact off/open. It you make this modification pressing the bottom of the paddle no longer turns off the load since the internal contact never stayed closed when the top of the paddle was pressed. You basically end up with a switch that does not operate like every other decora paddle switch in the world operates and this only confuses users.

This is my opinion. I am not trying to change anyone's mind about this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QJgYJfNKRI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SX3L...ature=youtu.be

[Vit]

First, a VERY important disclaimer! The modified switches are good for control circuits but should NOT be used for switching any type of meaningful currents!

Now, for Lutron/Cooper switches it is really easy. First, you pry the plastic paddle (from the face side). That will expose the switch internals. The top contact then needs to be (un)bent towards the center, probably, 2-3 mm. You may need to finetune the final contact position in order to make the switch 'register' presses but without being 'sticky'.

For Legrand, see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SX3LYw2Xb58.