20 Amp Z-Wave Switch

[joe@kirbyperformance.com]

I'm looking for a 20 amp z-wave switch for a pool light, which I believe is a 400 watt incandescent. Almost all switches I find a 15 am. Ideas on where to find this?

[drhtmal]

GE makes one. Do a search on GE heavy duty switch.

[Eman]

GE makes one. Do a search on GE heavy duty switch.

Right here :GE Z-Wave Plus 40-Amp Indoor/Outdoor Metal Box Smart Switch, Direct Wire, 120-277VAC, for Pools, Pumps, Patio Lights, AC Units, Electric Water Heaters, Compatible with a Z-Wave Certified Hub 14285 , Gray


Eman.

[randy]

I'm looking for a 20 amp z-wave switch for a pool light, which I believe is a 400 watt incandescent. Almost all switches I find a 15 am. Ideas on where to find this?

400 Watts at 120 volts is roughly 3.34 amps. Why do you need a 20 amp switch?

[joe@kirbyperformance.com]

It is a 20 amp service. I’ve tried two different 15 amp switches, neither of which worked.

[TC1]

It is a 20 amp service. I’ve tried two different 15 amp switches, neither of which worked.

The service rating of the branch circuit (20 amps as you claim) has nothing to do with the current draw of the actual load. When you say 15-amp rated switches don't work, did they fail? Not turn on at all? If they failed then you have something more than just one 400-watt lamp on that circuit which you really should determine what the true nature of the load is.

[drhtmal]

It is a 20 amp service. I’ve tried two different 15 amp switches, neither of which worked.

This is not related to your problem, but most people don't realize that the circuit breaker is there to protect the wiring in the wall. The breaker is not there to protect the load.

Also, if you look at the old toggle switch that was in the jbox you will see that it is also rated at 15 amps.

[joe@kirbyperformance.com]

This is not related to your problem, but most people don't realize that the circuit breaker is there to protect the wiring in the wall. The breaker is not there to protect the load.

Also, if you look at the old toggle switch that was in the jbox you will see that it is also rated at 15 amps.

Interestingly, the switch is a 20 amp switch, which go me thinking I needed a 20 amp zwave. I've installed more several 15 amp z-wave switches in my current more with no problems.

[joe@kirbyperformance.com]

The service rating of the branch circuit (20 amps as you claim) has nothing to do with the current draw of the actual load. When you say 15-amp rated switches don't work, did they fail? Not turn on at all? If they failed then you have something more than just one 400-watt lamp on that circuit which you really should determine what the true nature of the load is.

The switch only powers a single pool light, which the installed stated was 400 watts; no other service from this switch.

[TC1]

The switch only powers a single pool light, which the installed stated was 400 watts; no other service from this switch.

Please state specifically *which* Z-wave switch model you installed that did not work. As stated previously in this thread, a 400-watt incandescent lamp is under 4 amps in terms of load and is also non-inductive (which means there should be no surge current when initially turned on).

Please state *what* fails. Did the circuit breaker trip? Did the switch fry and become non-responsive?

[randy]

It is a 20 amp service. I’ve tried two different 15 amp switches, neither of which worked.

To repeat what has been written above. That doesn’t sound right. I could see if 12 gauge wire wouldn’t fit the terminals of the switch, otherwise it should work. Obviously a 15A rated switch would be less than the capacity of a 20 circuit, but the switch is internally protected. To err on the side of caution you could replace the breaker with a 15-amp breaker, but it is unnecessary. Remember, when you plug a 100-watt lamp into a 20-amp outlet, the lamp cord and components have far less ampacity than the 20-amp branch serving it, but it will still work just fine.

All that being said, there is no reason a 15-amp switch wouldn't work. As others have asked, define "neither of which worked". Do the wires not fit the switch terminals, does the switch not work, etc.

[joe@kirbyperformance.com]

Please state specifically *which* Z-wave switch model you installed that did not work. As stated previously in this thread, a 400-watt incandescent lamp is under 4 amps in terms of load and is also non-inductive (which means there should be no surge current when initially turned on).

Please state *what* fails. Did the circuit breaker trip? Did the switch fry and become non-responsive?

Enbrighten Z-Wave Smart Toggle Light Switch with QuickFit and SimpleWire, 3-Way Ready, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant, ZWave Hub Required, Repeater/Range Extender, White & Light Almond, 46202

The switch would not power the light on or off. I then tried a Eaton 15 amp Z-Wave. Same issue. Reinstalled 20 amp dumb switch and it works fine.

[drhtmal]

Enbrighten Z-Wave Smart Toggle Light Switch with QuickFit and SimpleWire, 3-Way Ready, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant, ZWave Hub Required, Repeater/Range Extender, White & Light Almond, 46202

The switch would not power the light on or off. I then tried a Eaton 15 amp Z-Wave. Same issue. Reinstalled 20 amp dumb switch and it works fine.

Is there a netural wire in the box? Post a pick of the wiring. That would have been helpful.

[joe@kirbyperformance.com]

Is there a netural wire in the box? Post a pick of the wiring. That would have been helpful.

Thank you for helping with this. Attached are two pictures:
1) The original switch and wiring.
2) The face of the original switch.

[randy]

You need to confirm that the white wire is a neutral. If it is, a neutral will most likely be required for any smart switch. Likely the line is black and the load is red. You would also need to confirm that. Smart switches require line and neutral to function. Then they can switch the load on and off. The green is ground.