Physical install: Yellow, brown etc. wires on LED floodlight.

[Kahuna]

Ok, so I have a bunch of LED floodlights like these:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Good-Earth-...mer/1000120131
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Good-Earth-...mer/1000215607

The ballast has a mess of wires wires which do not resemble the installation instructions for the FLS100. Brown, yellow, blue, blue connecting to black etc. Can anyone steer me in the right direction for connection?

Thanks,
K

[macromark]

Did you get this figured out? If you can trace the wires to where they are coming from (or going to), that should help. Just compare that with the wiring diagram supplied with the sensor. Note that color coding is typically White=Neutral, Black=Hot, Red/Black/Blue=Load. However, manufacturers can (obviously) deviate from this. If you can't determine what corresponds to what, check the fixture manual to see what that wiring diagram looks like or... maybe get an electrician involved?

[Kahuna]

No, not sorted yet.

The blue, yellow brown and white wires connect the ballast and the motion sensor stalk. The installation instructions only centered around the hot/neutral connections.

I installed them myself and have a cursory understanding of AC wiring conventions but thinking about it it is possibly/likely DC between the ballast and motion sensor. Would that mean the FLS100 is not compatible with factory LED floodlights?

P.S. I live in Bedford so would be happy to drop it over to the office for R&D purposes. ;-p

Thanks,
K

[macromark]

The sensor is just designed to control the load with a relay. It's really simple internally. When motion is sensed and LUX is at or below the threshold, it closes the relay and provides power to the bulb sockets. 120v (hot) connects to the sensor's black wire and it flows through the relay and back to the load via the sensor's red wire. This works really well with standard bulb sockets (that just have Hot and Neutral wires). If your fixture is not wired in this manner, then this may not work. Does that make sense? Feel free to drop by if you like. We can take a look at it.

FWIW, I'm using a standard motion activated fixture and I have Cree LED flood lamps installed.

[randy]

[macromark]

Just whipped this together to show how the wiring typically is done. hope it helps.

[Kahuna]

Just opened it up. The PCB is covered with a waterproofing rubber so can't really make anything out.

I might drop it off at the office. Obviously would be better to be able to give owners of factory LED lights a steer on connection or a statement that is not compatible on the product page if that is the case.

Should I leave it for your attention Mark?

Thanks for the help both.
K.

[sirmeili]

The sensor is just designed to control the load with a relay. It's really simple internally. When motion is sensed and LUX is at or below the threshold, it closes the relay and provides power to the bulb sockets. 120v (hot) connects to the sensor's black wire and it flows through the relay and back to the load via the sensor's red wire. This works really well with standard bulb sockets (that just have Hot and Neutral wires). If your fixture is not wired in this manner, then this may not work. Does that make sense? Feel free to drop by if you like. We can take a look at it.

FWIW, I'm using a standard motion activated fixture and I have Cree LED flood lamps installed.

(emphasis added by me).

Wow Mark, great customer service!

Just wanted to say that

[macromark]

(emphasis added by me).

Wow Mark, great customer service!

Just wanted to say that

Looking is easy... Fixing is generally much harder!

[macromark]

... It is likely that the existing sensor is line level like the HS device, but I had some motion controlled lights where the sensor interfaced with the LED driver and did not operate at line level.

Randy - you change your avatar more often than Trey Gowdy changes hair styles.... and that's saying something!

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DU5KKWPUMAABDBZ.jpg

[randy]

Randy - you change your avatar more often than Trey Gowdy changes hair styles.... and that's saying something!

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DU5KKWPUMAABDBZ.jpg

Gotta keep 'em guessing. Hopefully I do better than Trey has from time to time

[DLONG2]

Two years later, I go out and mistakenly buy a Good Earth LED at Lowes, as at least it has standard threads for the sensor while other models don't. Attached is an internal view of the newest wiring. I will look for a CREE as mentioned.

[alex0603]

I apologize if i am being dense , but I have the same issue with the same light. Are you saying that the good earth light with the yellow wire will not work with the HS-FLS100 ? Oddly enough I am replacing the same light from years ago that quick working. The old ones did not have the yellow wire, but new ones do. To be clear with mine, the wires from the motion sensor that I have to cut and replace with my new zwave sensor include a white black red and "Yellow" it is this yellow that I am perplexed by .