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Dimming with HS-FLS100?

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    Dimming with HS-FLS100?

    I currently have three bronze floodlights on my back patio connected to Z-wave dimmers. I would like to add these floodlight sensors to them but do not see a way to preserve dimming without running another wire (which is not in the cards).

    Also a bronze or or black version would be be nice.

    I recently installed two on my more security focused lights and these are great!
    _______________________________________________

    HS3 : HSpro (3.0.0.460) on Win2012 (vm on ESXi)
    Plugins: HSTouch, UPBSpud, Kinect, Nest, IFTTT, DirecTV, EasyTrigger, Imperihome, Zwave, RFXcom, UltraMon3, UltraWeatherBug3, UltraGCIR3, UltraLog3, UltraPioneer, PHLocation, Pushover, Pushalot, MCSSPrinklers S, JowiHue
    Jon00 Plugins: Bluetooth Proximity, Performance Monitor, DB Chart, Links

    #2
    The FLS-100 has only a relay output to control the floods. I suspect you mean to control power to the dimmers via that output? If your dimmers are also Z-Wave or any other such technology then you'll lose communication with them when the FLS output is off.
    At any rate, hardware wise, without an extra conductor; impossible.
    If your dimmers are also Z-Wave, and connected to some other circuit, you should be able to associate them with the FLS-100. But by doing that, the dimmers would be strictly On/Off when following the FLS-100.
    All that said, you can always resort to an event to control the separately wired dimmers any way you like as the FLS-100 switches on or off.
    Real courage is not securing your Wi-Fi network.

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      #3
      Use zwave dimable flood light bulbs. Supply constant power to the flood light to power the FLS-100 and the bulb. If the bulbs support group 2 association great otherwise uses events to control them from the dimmers.

      Comment


        #4
        You could also use a dimming module if it will fit in the box for the flood light.

        Comment


          #5
          I guess I was not really clear. What I want is a dimmer version of the floodlight sensor, or some clever way to use a z-wave dimmer switch on the same circuit. The problem is that I want the sensor to remain powered, but be able to dim the light. To do this properly would require a three conductor wire from the switch to the fixture. I only have two conductor wire ( as is normal). If there was a dimmer version of this sensor then I would hardwire it and use group 2 on a z-wave dimmer to control with a paddle.
          _______________________________________________

          HS3 : HSpro (3.0.0.460) on Win2012 (vm on ESXi)
          Plugins: HSTouch, UPBSpud, Kinect, Nest, IFTTT, DirecTV, EasyTrigger, Imperihome, Zwave, RFXcom, UltraMon3, UltraWeatherBug3, UltraGCIR3, UltraLog3, UltraPioneer, PHLocation, Pushover, Pushalot, MCSSPrinklers S, JowiHue
          Jon00 Plugins: Bluetooth Proximity, Performance Monitor, DB Chart, Links

          Comment


            #6
            I clearly understood what you were wanting to achieve. It does not require 3 conductors, just a clever way to use a z-wave dimmer switch on the same circuit. Three conductors would make it easier because you could directly use your existing dimmer to control the load thus there would be no need for the nano dimmer. The way I outlined it all you need is 2 conductors and constant power to the fixture.

            The FLS-100 does not need to directly control the load. In this case you are only using it for motion and light detection. The dimmable bulb or the inline dimmer module (like an aeotec nano dimmer) would control the load. The WD200 dimmer would also not be controlling the load. It would just tell the dimmable bulb or inline dimming module to control the load for dimming.

            Here is a link to the nano dimmer

            https://aeotec.com/z-wave-light-dimmer-switch/

            Comment


              #7
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                #8
                Originally posted by drhtmal View Post
                I clearly understood what you were wanting to achieve. It does not require 3 conductors, just a clever way to use a z-wave dimmer switch on the same circuit. Three conductors would make it easier because you could directly use your existing dimmer to control the load thus there would be no need for the nano dimmer. The way I outlined it all you need is 2 conductors and constant power to the fixture.

                The FLS-100 does not need to directly control the load. In this case you are only using it for motion and light detection. The dimmable bulb or the inline dimmer module (like an aeotec nano dimmer) would control the load. The WD200 dimmer would also not be controlling the load. It would just tell the dimmable bulb or inline dimming module to control the load for dimming.

                Here is a link to the nano dimmer

                https://aeotec.com/z-wave-light-dimmer-switch/
                Good idea. I’ve used the nano dimmers, and dual nano switches in a few places—mostly behind pico remotes that are configured to control hue lights. It just did not occur to me to add one here. Kind of wish I had a wholesale place to buy them from since I could see a ton of uses for them.
                _______________________________________________

                HS3 : HSpro (3.0.0.460) on Win2012 (vm on ESXi)
                Plugins: HSTouch, UPBSpud, Kinect, Nest, IFTTT, DirecTV, EasyTrigger, Imperihome, Zwave, RFXcom, UltraMon3, UltraWeatherBug3, UltraGCIR3, UltraLog3, UltraPioneer, PHLocation, Pushover, Pushalot, MCSSPrinklers S, JowiHue
                Jon00 Plugins: Bluetooth Proximity, Performance Monitor, DB Chart, Links

                Comment


                  #9
                  You could also use Philips Hue bulbs in the FLS100+. These bulbs remember their last state and when the FLS100+ turns them on they’ll return to their last dimmed level. You simply set the dim level you want while they’re on (through HomeSeer, using a Hue controller, etc...) You could even have HomeSeer set the dim level programmatically at different times of day.

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